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post #1 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-17-2013, 12:19 PM Thread Starter
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Front brake ?

Ok, here goes..

Just flushed the old brown nasty wanna be brake fluid from my fronts brakes..

There was some sludge in the master cylinder. I wiped it out while there was still some fluid in there, so I shouldnt have sucked any down into the piston area.

However, while I have nice clear fluid now (have bleed the brakes too), and my 'sticky' brake lever is now not 'sticky', I have a lot of 'squeeze' avail. almost like it still has air in the system.

Could the master need a rebuild because I got rid of the mud it was using, and now the fluid can get past the piston seal? Also, does the rebuild usually just need new piston/seals, or should I look at getting a complete cylinder?

I have not yet ridden it to see if the braking effect has changed (they seemed pretty wimpy prior).
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post #2 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-17-2013, 12:41 PM
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The front brakes on these bikes can be a real nuisance to bleed.
Many have installed speed bleeders and claimed good results with less time and trouble.

Others have done a reverse fill by hooking up a hose to the brake fluid bottle and filling the system from the brake calipers up through the hoses to the master cylinder.

It sounds like your main complaint right now is a soft lever when you squeeze it, indicating air still in the system.
Before rebuilding the MC, try tying the lever back tight to the hand grip with a bungee cord and leave it sit over night or even a full day, then check it again to see if the spongy feel is gone and is firm now. This procedure has been reported to squeeze the air bubbles from the system.

Hope this helps.

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post #3 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-17-2013, 01:20 PM
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Worst brakes I have ever bled. Took me 4 days the last time to get lever pressure. Did the regular way, speed bleeder way, and tying off the lever way.

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post #4 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-17-2013, 01:32 PM Thread Starter
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ok, so no panic yet, just keep at it..
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post #5 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-17-2013, 02:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JM2001 View Post
Worst brakes I have ever bled. Took me 4 days the last time to get lever pressure. Did the regular way, speed bleeder way, and tying off the lever way.
What worked for me was the "Drip Method". Let it drip bleed (very slow drip) over night, refill in the morning.

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post #6 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-17-2013, 02:30 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
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try tying the lever back tight to the hand grip with a bungee cord and leave it sit over night or even a full day, then check it again to see if the spongy feel is gone and is firm now. This procedure has been reported to squeeze the air bubbles from the system.

Hope this helps.
ok, on this method, I assume the system is filled and sealed, correct? If I was to leave the master cylinder open overnight here in the land of humidity, I will be defeating the purpose of changing the fluid in the first place (we frequently have enough dew in the mornings it drips off the roof of the house like rain).
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post #7 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-17-2013, 03:36 PM
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If you guys are having that much trouble, Gravity bleed it like is necessary w/the uberexpensive silicone racing brake fluid.
Open the master cylinder, crack the bleeder, keep the reservoir full. Leave the brake lever alone. Leave the master cylinder open, covered so nothing can fall in it.

Don't get excited it will take a long time.

Last edited by wmsonta; 03-17-2013 at 03:38 PM.
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post #8 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-17-2013, 06:00 PM
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Like all the above have stated...its just air....not sure about models after mine (1985), but I have brake bleeders everywhere, more than on later models I think....if you can drill/tap, and have done vehicle work before, you could add 2 bleeders down below (unless you have em)....if you do have em, remove them completely and replace/clean....they are more than likely clogged with yer brownish crud that aint soy sauce...



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post #9 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-17-2013, 06:43 PM Thread Starter
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i believe I only have 2 bleeders, one on each caliper. the additional ones your talking about would be down where the single line splits into 2, right?

I will have to double check that area to see if I have them.
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post #10 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-17-2013, 09:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by michiganteddybear View Post
ok, on this method, I assume the system is filled and sealed, correct? If I was to leave the master cylinder open overnight here in the land of humidity, I will be defeating the purpose of changing the fluid in the first place (we frequently have enough dew in the mornings it drips off the roof of the house like rain).
Yes fill the reservoir and put the cap back on and then just zip tie the lever back to the grip and let it sit over night. any air left in the system can then work it's way up the lines and out into the reservoir. You can even help by tapping on the calipers and lines to help shake the trapped air loose.

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