Easy to do. Download Kanuck69's manual, link located in his Sig. Only special tool that you will really need is a torque wrench to tighten up your axle and other bolts. But while you are at it, might as well lube your splines too as everything will be loose, so no real reason not to take the extra 20 minutes to do so.
Just a note....when doing yer rear shoes (and this goes for ANY bike), before re-assembling, take a piece of fine emery cloth, and make diagonal cross hatches all the way around the drum...then go the other way, and reverse the crosshatches...this removes any non metal glazing that may have occured if your drum had ever gotten grease/oil into it.....this is similar to "cutting drums" on a car with drum brakes....very important.
I mount a long bolt in a bench vise that is same as axle. Toss the wheel onto there with the open drum out. First, a few revs around with the emery. Second, crosshatched right, third, crosshatched left. Trust me. It helps a lot.
I can do front brake quick, 15 minutes a side.... tops. How thick are your pads? If they are good, take them off and try lightly sanding them and then lube up all the slides and such and a light coating of the lube on the back of the pads. Re-install and see how the feels and sounds.
While you are at it you might want to change the brake fluid too.
i am doing front and rear this Sunday front looks easy if its anything like the vn1500 nomad should be super easy i will let u know how it goes and take some pics if i can remember
Big thing about the fronts, is to check to make sure the rotors arent gouged (ridges). I was told they cant be cut. If theryre only slightly ridged, just lightly remove and glazing on them, and new pads will wear into the ridges. Cheaper than a new rotor. But eventually a new rotor might be in order if its deeply gouged.
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