Ive done seals for years (albeit my bikes were much older), and even did em w/o taking off wheel (one leg at a time/flip axle for other)...I may just try that, because Im really not into a whole teardown. Any hints, let us know, eh ?...gonna start mine tomorrow. And gonna try the old way.
Releasing air, draining fluid, removing lower hex should be enough, no ?
Actually the way I did it involved very little disassembly.
1: Removed fork from tree
2: Removed drain plug and drained the oil from the forks, using a pumping action to get as much oil from them as possible.
3: Removed the cap at the top of the fork, after bleeding the air out (I put my fork in the vise, I used a lot of rags to protect the chrome as I clamped them down).
4: Removed the dust seal
5: I got some small sheet metal screws and screwed them into the old seal, after I removed the retaining ring. I used 3 of them and put them at 1/3 of a turn from each other (2,6,and 10 o'clock) I just put the screws about 2 threads into the seal, not any more than that. The trick is to get screws that are small enough to clear the main fork as you pull them up, but have a big enough head to grab on to.
6 GENTLY work the old seal up off of the fork, I just would pull a little bit on each screw, take you time. It may take a couple of minutes.
7. After you get the old seal off, I just used a bit of new fork oil on the inside of the seal and on the fork to install the new seal. It should slide right down with very little resistance.. To seat the seal, I used a punch and tapped it into the recess where it goes. TAP GENTLY!!!!
The rest of the process is just a reverse of this. I used hydraulic jack oil for my fork oil. Seems to be working well, I'll know more this winter when I service the forks and see how it held up.
This was done on a 454 LTD, but the process will be the same as the Vulcan...