Removing wheels from bike - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old 07-06-2006, 09:34 PM Thread Starter
 
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Removing wheels from bike

OK, I've got it running, just bought from local dealer Dunlop 404's $56 for Front $79 for back. They want $60 total to mount them, if off the bike. I want to check my splines while I'm at it. Have the manuals, but want some input on any tricks, pitfalls, horror stories about removing the wheels from the bike. So far, everything I've done to the bike, uncovered more and more expensive problems.... removing the wheels and then pulling apart the rear end to check the splines makes my testicles quiver.

Thanks
Bob
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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old 07-06-2006, 10:26 PM
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If you can take your wheel off,, you will have no probem checking the splines. Were talking four nuts to remove the final drive unit and one spring at the end of the drive shaft. Dont worry, just do it.
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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old 07-06-2006, 10:48 PM
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Haven't tried the front, but the back is easy. Someone wrote about it here in the last month. A good write up. May have been fergy or hyperbuzzin. I recommend putting a 2x4 under the center stand for that little extra maneuvering room. You can't take the axle out until after you get the shocks off. Make sure you have a torque wrench, 27mm socket, and a cotter pin ready for when you get it back together. The axle nut is on there real tight, so whatever you use to get it off, it'll need to be long (or have an extension on it). I use a length of pipe over my ratchet. Of course, you could just be more studly than I, and be able to pop that sucka loose. Lemme find the thread with the info, and I'll post it after this...

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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old 07-06-2006, 10:49 PM
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its a bit tricky to get the rear wheel out from under the fender. I've heard about letting some air out, which is great if you have a way to put the air back in (I don't in my garage), or adding a block or wood under the centerstand so that when you put the bike up on the stand, the rear is thus higher off the ground. I want to try that. The way I had been doing it though was buy rotating the wheel and pulling to get it under the fender. If you rotate the wheel "forward" while pulling on the bottom of the wheel, it should pop right out. But like I said, I don't know who exactly suggested the block of wood idea, but it sounded much beter than my way.

The front tire is pretty easy. The manual said to add some vinyl tubing or wood between the brake pads incase you inadvertantly squeeze the lever so you don't force the piston out. My advice is forget the vinyl tubing, and don't squeeze the lever. Wanting to see if the vinyl tubing really worked, I squeezed the lever and found that it doesn't work very well!
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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old 07-06-2006, 10:50 PM
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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old 07-06-2006, 10:54 PM
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I have found if you put a 2X8 under the center stand and take off the plate not to hard to get the wheel out. The plate was in the way for me.

Chad Falstad "Hawk"
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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old 07-06-2006, 11:05 PM
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Ah yes, a 2x8. 2x4 works if you don't have a kid. I have a kid and I found out the hard way about the 2x4 not being wide enough. All was cool with her on it until she started turning the handle bars side to side. I was across the garage, and saw what was about to happen but couldn't get there in time. BUT, the wheel was back on, and it stayed on the center stand (the board shot across the room). Scared her. After I changed my shorts, I took it off the center stand.

2000 A16
Drilled baffles
$65 leather saddle bags
Kuryaken grips
relocated R/R
de-badged
25,000+ original owner miles
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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old 07-06-2006, 11:05 PM
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don't forget to strap the centerstand to the front of the bike and put a block in front of the front tire so the centerstand will not colapse.

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