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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 04-11-2010, 10:39 AM Thread Starter
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sqweaky brakes

I just purchased a 92 and have been riding it some. oth brakes sqweak, the front is little enouhg I can deal with it, but the rear end one is nasty. Bike has 21,000 so I'm assuming they are not wore out (the gauge on side is in middle). Anybody have any advice on damping it makeing it less or getting rid of it.The bike is so nice to ride then i pull up to ny stop and it sounds like crap. Is it possible it was parked for 6-8 months (ND winter) it may come out of it with some use? I'm only at about 18 miles (hey! its 50 degrees here (60 today hopefully) and i have had it a day so I havent got a chacne to ride it to much!).

I was going to take the rear wheel off and maybe replace um (or sand um) but the shaft drive is new to me. Does the shaft drive make rear wheel removal alot more work or not?
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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 04-11-2010, 10:45 AM
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That is what I was going to say clean the dust, sand the shoes and the drum with sand paper.

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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 04-11-2010, 10:52 AM
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Yep, probably some rust on surfaces, glaze on the shoes and pads. Would probably wear off with time. Fine steel wool might help on the rotor and brake drum to remove surface rust and maybe would quiet it down.

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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 04-11-2010, 11:48 PM
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The rear tire removal is part of fergy's spline lube procedure (see his signature) and if you haven't done it, need to.

I'm keepin' all the left over parts. I'm gonna use 'em to build another bike!
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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 04-12-2010, 09:02 AM
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Copper based grease may be the answer.

Dust and rust between operaring parts can cause noisy brakes and the smallest of smears applied to metal on metal moving parts may affect a cure.

BE WARNED Do not get any at all anywhere near the friction surfaces. Brakes and grease are a bad mix but a very very very tiny amount of copper grease between pad and piston on a disk brake or on the operating cam on a drum brake could be the answer.

I do mean a small amount. I have a tube of the stuff that I bought over 30 years ago and there is still enough left that it will probably pass to my grandchildren less than half used.

Finally, keep it well away from the friction surfaces, this I cannot stress enough.

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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 04-12-2010, 11:28 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by flitecontrol View Post
The rear tire removal is part of fergy's spline lube procedure (see his signature) and if you haven't done it, need to.
Well the bike just had a spring "tune Up" from the local Kaw dealer, all fluids and shaft too (wow $280!!!!!!) glad I can do the stuff myslef when it comes time. I do have a Calmers (that the name?) manual, just havent had time to look it over to much yet (did some basic cleaning and riding when it was warm enough) as it was weekend and the "chores" gotta be done before the fun stuff. So i had no plan on doing anything with it till the Brake noise. Whrn the bike is just started it doesn happen it seems, have to use the brakes a few times then they sqweek bad Have to get manual out (and look at the link suggested) and see what i can do this comming weekend.
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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 04-12-2010, 11:51 AM
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i use silicone brake caliper grease on the back of the pads where they meet the caliper seems to work ok unless it is raining or damp outside then i still get a little squeal


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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 04-12-2010, 12:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by clok1966 View Post
Well the bike just had a spring "tune Up" from the local Kaw dealer, all fluids and shaft too (wow $280!!!!!!) glad I can do the stuff myslef when it comes time. I do have a Calmers (that the name?) manual, just havent had time to look it over to much yet (did some basic cleaning and riding when it was warm enough) as it was weekend and the "chores" gotta be done before the fun stuff. So i had no plan on doing anything with it till the Brake noise. Whrn the bike is just started it doesn happen it seems, have to use the brakes a few times then they sqweek bad Have to get manual out (and look at the link suggested) and see what i can do this comming weekend.
I don't want to frighten you at all, but I would try to have a conversation with the tech that did your work and make sure they did the spline lube. Most technicians aren't even aware that drive shaft bikes have to be lubed once in a while, and often are confused and either will change the final drive gear oil, or won't do anything at all. When I bought my 750 in 06 I took it straight to a KAW shop in Conroe, close to where I picked up the bike. I had new tires put on and asked them to do the spline lube while they had the rear tire off.

In the process, they broke the left flange on the muffler where it attaches to the pre-muffler (you don't even have to loosen the left side to remove the rear wheel) and then they changed the final drive oil and ignored the spline lube all together. Turns out they, including the service manager didn't know what I was talking about.

Several months later I had done the spline lube procedure and I talked with the service manager, who apologized profusely and printed my spline lube procedure for them to have on hand. So, just FYI, you might want to ask. There are several accounts all through the years on this forum where the techs didn't know anything about it...

Fergy
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2002 VN1500 Classic
Spline Lube Procedure, with photos, R/R Relocation and Coil Mod
Rusty Tank Cleaning!
Electrical Fault Finding Flowchart
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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 04-12-2010, 07:32 PM
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I'd want to look at those splines myself, just to be sure.

I'm keepin' all the left over parts. I'm gonna use 'em to build another bike!
_____________________________________________
"Black Beauty"
1989 VN750 acquired December, 2008, 6,711 miles
Currently 23,298 miles

Old Blue
2001 Honda CMX250 Rebel acquired July, 2008

1987 VN750 project bike, acquired August, 2009, 33,000 miles and balancer sticking out of the case, currently awaiting attention and parts
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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 04-14-2010, 05:12 PM Thread Starter
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Good news the brakes seem to have decided to quit making noise after some riding. I think it might have been just he winter sitting and such. i did get a new scare, the clutch chatter (when cold, or so I read here! all this info is so great!) its gone as soon as bike is warm (50's here, but its new so i gotta ride!).

Looking over my spring tune up it appears its just the final drive that has been done (thanks for head up Fergy, made me look at recipt closer). So hopefully this weekend I can spend the time to do it. Only going to be so-so weather wise here. When i do it im going to buff the brakes anyways.

Already printed the excellent write up linked to here (sorry forget name) anybody have a guess (rough) on time it takes to do it? I'm a DIY guy on all my cars, and back when big hair was in I road bikes and worked on um too (82ish... ekkk!) but havent touched one in at least 15 years. Have all the tools, jacks, etc, the excellent write up, the molly grease recomended. And know my way around wrenchs.. It appears to be a 2-4 hour job from my reading (at least the first time) and how carefull I am (so add time, I'm slow and like to lay things out so i can rember how to assemble it all back the correct way the first time).

Last edited by clok1966; 04-14-2010 at 05:16 PM.
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