Replacing Fork Seals - Page 3 - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
Wheels, Suspension and Brakes
Everything to do with wheels, tires,
suspension, forks and brakes

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post #21 of 35 (permalink) Old 08-30-2011, 09:07 AM
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Hey Hoss there is a way to opnly print what you want from any page on the net. highlight what you want printed, hold the Ctrl button and press the letter p , this should bring up a window with options. in the print range box click on the selection and then print. this should only print what you had previously highlighted. happy printing

2004 Vulcan 750
Mine on Feb 2011
with 14,000mi
now 18,000mi
bone stock and
Lovin it
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post #22 of 35 (permalink) Old 10-19-2011, 03:42 AM
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Easy!!

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post #23 of 35 (permalink) Old 03-09-2013, 12:46 PM
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I think a note of explanation for my editting, or more correctly stated, spelling corrections to this post are required. I considered Ron/lance328 to be a friend and I greatly respect the contributions he made to the VN750.com forums. When he first started this thread I knew it was going to be a valuable resource for many rider owners who do their own wrenching. I also believe many of us will print out a hard copy to put in a maintenance folder for use sometime in the future.

With that in mind, I had noticed several spelling mistakes and one or two directions which I found a bit confusing. I PM'd Ron a list of these and invited him to use the corrections if he so desired. He thanked me for the list and made most of the corrections.

I was re-reading this thread a couple of days ago and noticed there were still a few typos which I found distracting, (ie. towles and dow rod). In my new position as a moderator I could have just made the corrections and other than the notice at the bottom of the OP that OlHoss had editted it, no one would probably notice the changes.

So with my respect for Ron still foremost in my mind, I will leave his OP and the "Last edited by lance328; 06-28-2010 at 12:19 AM." notification undisturbed, and make the corrections here in this quote for anyone who wants to print a paper copy with all the typos removed that I could find.

RIP Ron. Hope you are riding with the angels and that the sun is always at your back.



Quote:
Originally Posted by lance328 View Post
After watching Bulldogs rebuild and hearing the horror stories from others about flying parts, I figured there has to be a better way.

I suggest having a manual handy for reference and visual aid, "Clymer" is what I use.

STUFF YOU WILL NEED


1 Litre of 15w Fork Oil (it is enough for both forks)

2 Fork Oil Seals

2 Fork Dust Seals

2 cap retaining rings

6mm Allen Wrench. Preferably 6mm Allen for 3/8 ratchet

24 oz. or 600 ml. clear measuring cup

Funnel

Dental pic or pic set

Blue Loctite

2 Foot length of 1-1/2" PCV pipe ENDS MUST BE SQUARE (to drive seals in place)

4 Foot piece of 3/16" wooden dowel rod or cleaning rods from a shotgun/rifle cleaning kit

1 roll of shop or paper towels

latex or nitrile gloves

Bearing grease or Vaseline

Drain tub

Duct Tape

newspaper

1 quart mineral spirits

Jack


1) Place bike on center stand

2) Break loose the 6mm Allen bolt at the very bottom of the outer fork tube. "do not remove just break free" do the same for the axle nut, pinch bolt, caliper bolts.

3) Place a piece of wood and jack under the front of the engine and raise the wheel about 1" off the ground.

4) Remove both calipers

5) Remove the axle pinch bolt and axle, slide wheel forward then remove the speedo drive from the wheel.

6) Place several layers of newspaper and drain tub under the forks.

7) Remove the 6mm Allen bolt from the bottom of the forks and drain plug at the lower rear.

8) Remove the fender and slowly push the lower tube upward a couple times to pump out the fluid.

9) Use a screwdriver and hammer to remove the fork dust seal, slide seal up to the lower tree.

10) Use dental pick or small screwdriver to remove the retaining ring above the oil seal in the outer tube.

11) Grab the outer tube and slide all the way up, using a couple of downward blows the oil seal will separate from the outer tube.

12) In the bottom of the outer tube there are three parts, (the ones that go flying with other methods) place some paper towels on your bench or floor and turn tube upside down to get the parts.

13) Turn tubes upside down on paper towels and let drain.

14) remove the cap at the top of the forks

15) Use a 10mm socket, extension and ratchet to press down on the fork cap and remove the retaining ring with a dental pick. The cap is under a little spring pressure so lift up slowly.

16) Remove the spacer tube that is under the fork cap.

17) loosen the upper and lower triple clamp bolts and remove the fork tube.

18) Remove both seals from the inner tube, then remove the washer and slider bushing. (leave the fork bushing on the fork tube)

19) There are five parts inside the inner tube (damper rod, damper rod piston, rebound spring, fork spring and fork spring seat "washer") turn tube upside down on some paper towels and newspaper, then remove the fork spring seat, fork spring, damper rod and spring. "they will come out in this order, leave the damper rod piston attached to the damper rod"

20) Time to thoroughly clean both tubes, damper rod, and the three valve parts that were in the bottom outer tube, the other parts just wipe clean.

21) For the tubes, wad up a couple paper towels and place inside the tube, pour in a little mineral spirits (to soak the towels) push down with a broom handle and back up with the dowel rod. Do this a couple times wet and then with dry towels until clean. "use new towels each time"

After all parts are clean we can now begin to assemble.


1) Slide the small rebound spring inside the inner tube, use a small amount of fork oil to lube the damper rod piston and slide the damper all the way down the tube.

2) Install the long fork spring, spring seat "washer" and spacer tube into the inner tube. Use a couple of pieces of duct tape and press the spacer tube even with the fork tube and tape in place.

3) Place newspaper on bench or counter and lay the fork tube in it's side on the paper.

4) Use a little bit of grease on the oil lock piece "tapered end" and slide on the damper rod.

5) Take the spring "tapered side" and press on the valve, put a little grease on the flat side of valve and install in the oil lock piece.

6) Take the outer tube "slider" and install the small drain bolt then slide over the the damper rod and inner tube until it hits bottom.

7) After you have cleaned and dried the 6mm Allen bolt apply blue Loctite and install bolt to proper torque specs. I use an impact gun for this, you made need to use a vise or an extra pair of hands. If using a vise take every precaution not to damage the inner tube surface.

8) Remove the tape from the top of the tube and apply some fork oil to the inner fork tube and slide the "brass" outer fork bushing and washer down the fork tube.

9) Apply some fork oil on the inner wipers of the Fork Oil Seal and some extra oil at the top of the fork seal. You can use a piece of sandwich bag at the top of the fork tube and then slide down the seal or slide the seal without it. Make sure the small groove is facing up and the large groove on the seal is facing down.

10) Make sure your piece of PVC pipe is clean and slide down on top of the oil seal. put a piece of cardboard on the floor and set the fork on top of it. Use the flat side of your hammer or 2lb hammer and press the seal into place.

11) Install the retaining ring, make sure it is seated.

12) Slide the fork dust seal down and repeat above process for oil seal.

13) Clean and dry the inner fork tube and install back into the triple trees and tighten bolts to spec.

14) Take your measuring cup and mark 12.5 oz with a piece of tape. ( 1/2 inch will do) Pour in fork oil until it reaches the tape. Air bubbles should be above the bottom of the tape line.

15) Install funnel into the top of the fork tube, slowly pour oil into fork, once oil is out of the measuring cup continue to hold and count to 30. 1 1000, 2 1000 and so on. With the residual oil in the cup and funnel this will give you the correct amount of oil. MAKE SURE YOU CLEAN AND DRY THE CUP AND FUNNEL and repeat process for the other fork to ensure the same amount of oil.

16) Install the fork cap and NEW retaining ring and chrome cap.

17) Install the fender, speedo drive, spacer, wheel, axle, pinch bolt, and brake calipers and tighten to SPEC.

Gordon

1991 VN 750 -"Cosmic Lady" or "Bad Girl"?
Purchased May 16, 2008
Approx.19,300km (12,000 miles)

H-D windshield
Relocated R/R
MF-AGM battery
Fiamm Freeway Blaster horns
F&S luggage rack and engine guard
Kury Offset Hiway pegs
July 13, 2016, Riding on the DARKSIDE now, Classic Radial 165/80-15


TOP TEN THINGS A NEW RIDER/OWNER SHOULD DO. Click on link.
https://www.vn750.com/forum/11-vn750-general-discussion/9127-top-ten-items-you-would-suggest-new-owner-do-his-new-ride.html

Last edited by OlHossCanada; 03-09-2013 at 12:49 PM.
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post #24 of 35 (permalink) Old 03-09-2013, 11:51 PM
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........




Last edited by OlHossCanada; 06-21-2016 at 08:51 PM.
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post #25 of 35 (permalink) Old 08-14-2014, 10:52 PM
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Trouble finding parts

Hey fellow Vulcan riders, I'm having the hardest time finding a seller for these parts... any recommendations? I'm finding things, but I don't feel confident. Not many local places that could help, either. Good online sellers you know of?

2 Fork Oil Seals

2 Fork Dust Seals

2 cap retaining rings

Thanks all.
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post #26 of 35 (permalink) Old 08-14-2014, 11:49 PM
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bike bandit is pretty good.

2003 kaw vn 750 pushing 40,000 miles.
tp stator
dampers
coil relay mod
other stuff not listed
mustang seat
motorcycle repair at a stealership 1 million bucks, repairs with the help of the Vulcan750 forum priceless.
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post #27 of 35 (permalink) Old 08-14-2014, 11:59 PM
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post #28 of 35 (permalink) Old 08-15-2014, 02:10 AM
..have a vulcan good day!
 
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Ron Ayers is reliable.....but not the cheapest.
price items out with shipping on various online sights.....Google part numbers.......


'86 VN750 13,700 mi -Stock
-Purchased 2008 w/8800mi
Replaced ALL Cables . Kuryakyn LED Voltmeter
SilverStar Ultra 9003/HB2 H4 Headlamp, Jardine Fwd Controls,
Iridiums DPR7EIX-9 & Wires, Tuxedo Mod, Coil Mod, P/U Sensor Mod, Fork Seals,
Splines Lubed - 11/4/2012 - MF AGM Battery
Additional Flashing LED Brake Light on Trunk
Dampers went out @ 13+K !
After TOC MCCT's..... so amazingly quiet I discovered a rattling heat shield on my stock exhaust !
...have a vulcan good day!
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post #29 of 35 (permalink) Old 08-15-2014, 08:26 PM
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It has been a while, but I think I got mine at cheap cycle parts.

02 honda sabre 1100
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post #30 of 35 (permalink) Old 08-15-2014, 08:30 PM
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I found a set of seals (both oil and dust) on amazon.. pulling trigger tomorrow on them

http://www.amazon.com/Pyramid-Parts-.../dp/B00E3DW1NE

2005 VN750

Sold 11-27-17

Last edited by michiganteddybear; 08-15-2014 at 08:33 PM.
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