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Wheels, Suspension and Brakes
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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old 09-09-2009, 08:47 PM Thread Starter
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I would like to take both wheels to the local shop to mount my new tires and one trip would be preferable. Can I remove both the front and rear wheels at the same time? I've done the rear while doing the spline lube. Is the front tricky to get off? The Clymer manual makes it sound that way.

I do not have a jack, other than the scissor jack in in my car.
If I need to put something under the engine to keep her from tipping forward would that work?

Michael
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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old 09-09-2009, 08:57 PM
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I did this a couple weeks ago. I used a car jack (scissor) right under the front of the engine to hold the front of the bike up - I also used a piece of wood to widen the base for the front to sit - front tire was probly half inch to an inch off the ground. Getting the front wheel off isn't hard.

Just be careful not to bump or jerk your bike too much.

Important: Make note the position your speedo sits at the rim - so you can put it back exactly in the same place. You will have to wiggle and pull the speedo out of the rim.

Remove one of the brake calipers and let it hang then loosen the axle bolt, then the pinch bolt on the other side. Tap the axle out just like you did the rear. There is a spacer on the side where the pinch bolt is that will probly fall when you take axle out. Then roll it forward.

Note Don't squeeze the front brake lever with front wheel off.
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Last edited by MisterPister; 05-11-2011 at 06:36 PM.
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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old 09-09-2009, 08:59 PM
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Taking the front off is no big deal. Just like the rear, ya gotta make sure to have the spacer in the correct location. And sometimes getting the calipers over the discs can be tricky, but nothing really difficult.

You should be able to remove both with no troubles while the bike is on the centerstand. Might not hurt to have the centerstand on a 2x4.


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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old 09-09-2009, 09:10 PM
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Originally Posted by msh1156 View Post
If I need to put something under the engine to keep her from tipping forward would that work?

That is all you need really. Just make sure it is something that can not easily shift and fall out.

The project bike in my garage has the entire front end off of it, and is held up by a concrete cinder block wedged under the motor..(with a piece of wood on top to avoid scarring up anything.

Your jack would work, but as I said something big and solid is the way to go with the jack used to hold perhaps the back of the bike up.

The problem is with the front wheel off it can tip back......so you need a jack or block in the front, and one in the rear. A block under the right side of the swing arm and one under the front should hold it.



So remove the rear wheel first , and then block up the front along with the rear to remove the front wheel.

When you get the wheels back, put the front on first.


I put a huge eye hook in one of the rafters of my garage so I can ratchet up the front or the rear of the bike as needed using a tie down strap.


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Last edited by Knifemaker; 09-09-2009 at 09:14 PM.
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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old 09-10-2009, 07:06 AM
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here is a pic of what i did milk crate works nice

2002 vn750,7800 mile,homemade drag pipes,harley heratige seat,honda sissybar,led rear turn signals,
iridium plugs,marbled,110/90/19 kenda kruz front,
170/80/15 kenda kruz rear,saddlebags.
whats to come****handlebars,highway pegs
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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old 09-10-2009, 07:15 AM
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What he ^ said. I do a similar rafter thing with a strap but I don't have a hook up there I just hang the strap over the rafter and put each hook on the bike somewhere.

Also as mentioned, front wheel removal is easy. Pull and hang both calipers out of the way-loosen/remove pinch bolt on right tube-remove axle nut, (may have to slide a screwdriver in opposite end axle hole to prevent axle from turning during nut removal)-slide axle out and note spacer that goes between right fork tube and wheel. Then the wheel just rolls out from between the forks, then you can remove the speedo hub.

Installation is the reverse of all that....

It's pretty easy, and like the back wheel/splines, once you do it, you'll find it's easier than it sounded initially.
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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old 09-10-2009, 12:52 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks Fellas. As usual, great info.
(oh, and I love the pic of the 750 with no shoes on)

Michael
2002 Nomad 1500
VROC #29972

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Last edited by msh1156; 09-10-2009 at 01:53 PM.
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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old 09-10-2009, 02:57 PM
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thanks lol but the kendas kruzs on and i am really liking them so far

2002 vn750,7800 mile,homemade drag pipes,harley heratige seat,honda sissybar,led rear turn signals,
iridium plugs,marbled,110/90/19 kenda kruz front,
170/80/15 kenda kruz rear,saddlebags.
whats to come****handlebars,highway pegs
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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old 09-10-2009, 06:58 PM Thread Starter
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Those are the tires I received as well. 110 and 170 - 113.98 shipped to me in literally hours. (Their warehouse is in SC) Date codes from April (front) and June (rear) this year. Fresh, Fast and Frugal. The garage smells like new tires now. I'll pull the wheels tomorrow after work, take them for mounting Saturday AM and will be breaking them in slowly starting in the afternoon. Yippee.

Michael
2002 Nomad 1500
VROC #29972

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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old 09-10-2009, 09:25 PM
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That is what I am going with, but I got regular size on front and the bigger one for the rear. I got mine from JCW, had other stuff that I bought with them.

02 honda sabre 1100
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