2 line brake conversion - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old 07-24-2009, 05:16 PM Thread Starter
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2 line brake conversion

Hey all. I just received my Goodridge SS brake line kit. Only 2 brake lines and the hardware which consists of 3 bolts and some washers. Hhmmm.... Should I just send 'em back and go with the Galfers or just go to a 2 line system? What hardware do I need to adapt? A "T" at the reservoir? The lines look long enough to do that. Does our OEM configuration offer better or more equalized braking? Otherwise, I do like the look of those lines.
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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old 07-25-2009, 12:24 AM
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I know that they have 2 line kit for our bike. It should have a longer banjo bolt for the lines at the reservoir though. The stock setup shouldn't do anything for equalzin the braking. The 'tee' is a 'tee' that is all. It is not a proportioning valve like on a car. They just did that so it was one like coming down from the bars not two.

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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old 07-25-2009, 12:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnrwilco View Post
Hey all. I just received my Goodridge SS brake line kit. Only 2 brake lines and the hardware which consists of 3 bolts and some washers. Hhmmm.... Should I just send 'em back and go with the Galfers or just go to a 2 line system? What hardware do I need to adapt? A "T" at the reservoir? The lines look long enough to do that. Does our OEM configuration offer better or more equalized braking? Otherwise, I do like the look of those lines.
You should have two short bolts and one long one with seven sealing washers.

At the M/C you will use the long bolt, washer, line, washer, line, washer and then screw into the M/C. Then run the two lines to the calipers using the short bolts and two washers per side.


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Last edited by lance328; 07-25-2009 at 12:46 AM.
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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old 07-25-2009, 02:15 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks Lance and Jace. I'm gonna have new lines tomorrow.
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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old 07-25-2009, 02:21 AM
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Originally Posted by johnrwilco View Post
Thanks Lance and Jace. I'm gonna have new lines tomorrow.
I take it the parts we described are there?


85 VN700 "Old Yella"

REBUILT ENGINE
CUSTOM PAINT
VANCE & HINES CRUZERS
EAR SHAVED AND RE-JETTED W/K&N'S
DUNLOP ELITE K591 FRONT & REAR
VOLTMETER
SYNTHETIC BRAKE FLUID
SYNTHETIC OIL & GEAR LUBE
PLEXISTAR 2 WINDSHIELD
SPLINES LUBED
ACCT'S GREASED W/TOC SPRINGS
COASTERD
LEATHER SADDLE BAGS
LEATHER TOOL AND ROLL BAG
PICKUP COILS GAPPED AT .018"
NGK CAP, WIRES, IRIDUMS
BARNETT FRICTION PLATES & SPRINGS
CUSTOM GRIPS, MIRRORS, LEVERS
ORIGINAL STATOR & R/R 14.5v
DEKA MF AGM ETX15L

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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old 07-25-2009, 12:07 PM Thread Starter
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Indeed they are, Lance. Will put 'em on this afternoon after I pick up some Dot 3/4 synthetic brake fluid.
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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old 07-25-2009, 12:19 PM
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could we get a pic of this when it is done??
What is the reason for two lines??

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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old 07-25-2009, 04:43 PM
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two calipers either have to have two lines teed into one or two lines going all the way to the M/C,it is probably cheaper to just make a kit with two lines as it saves the manufacturer two fittings and they just have to make up two hoses and saves a little labor cost as well,I really cant see any advantage in brake performance,other than the stainless lines are not supposed to stretch out ward under pressure as much and supposedly gives better brake feel,but i am sure some one will give me some other reason that I don't know and I'm up for learning something new.




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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old 07-25-2009, 05:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jace Bror View Post
.... The stock setup shouldn't do anything for equalzin the braking. The 'tee' is a 'tee' that is all. It is not a proportioning valve like on a car. ....

Uh, sort of. The "T" connector on the bike does in fact act as a equilization block due to the simple fundimentals of fluid mechenics.

Because hydrolic pressure from the master cylnder is split into two lines, it is almost impossible for the pressure in each line not to be the same when the lever is pulled. In cars you might need something more sophisticated cause you have four wheels and alot more distance from front to back. (as cars do not have front only brake controlls like a bike, the added length of hose to the rear would make in hard to balance the system equally. But then one should understand that much like a bike, front brakes take up a majority of braking effort. and one would not really want the front to "equal" the rear in applied braking force.,

The bottom line here is there is no significant difference in running two lines to the MC or having one that is split downstream, other than the added advantage of being able to bleed the system better without the horizontally possitioned T block the stock system uses.


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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old 07-25-2009, 09:17 PM
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I guess I am meaning that it is not like a car, where you are criss crossing the brake force between front and back and left and right. and making it so that the front is braking at 70% and the rear at 30% (or whatever percentage it may be)

And most bikes you have to manually make the front/rear ratio yourself. It would be nice to have one that would do both no matter which lever you hit. but then again I ride to have a feeling of control over something, not let it do all the work...

Sold 750 (9-09)
Bought '07 900 Classic "LT" (6-09)
Mustand Seat (6-09)
Balanced Carbs (4-09)
Adjusted Mix Screws (4-09)
Drilled Baffles 8 holes (4-09)
R/R Relocated (3-09)
Splines Lubed (3-09)
Metzelers ME880 170/80 in back 100/90 in front (3-09)
Painted flat blak (3-09)
Kuri grips (8-08)
Kuri Longhorn pegs (8-08)
Iridium Plugs (8-08)
Highway bar/ engine guard(FS)
Some saddlebags no idea which ones
Facebook group Vulcan 750 Riders (Invite Only Group)
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