Final Drive Advice - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
Transmission / Rear End
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Rear End Woes? Splines Shot? Discuss it here!

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  • 4 Post By OleDirtyDoc
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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old 09-28-2017, 11:37 AM Thread Starter
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Just a heads up, I am new to Vulcans but not bikes... so I bought this 95 Vulcan 750 from a family member. Had 3500 hundred miles on it and I recently got it running. Have some vacuum leaks I am taking care of this weekend, anyway, since it has no miles and has been sitting for 20 years... should I still drop the final drive and lube the splines? Ive been reading that Kawasaki in their infinite wisdom at the factory didnt lube alot of lines of Vulcans...
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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old 09-28-2017, 11:50 AM
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If you're planning on putting new tires on it (which you probably should if the current ones have been sitting for 20 years) then you can do it at that time. Best not to be left for too long, but you'll be only 4 nuts away from having the final drive off when you go to change the rear tire, and you're not likely to damage anything substantially within a few hundred miles.

If you already did tires, yeah go back in and do the splines. Mine were lubed when I bought the bike, but I was one of the very lucky ones.

Also not a bad idea to put fresh gear oil in the final drive, but you can do that with the drive installed on the bike no problem.

Honda Moly Paste (M77) is what I used, can be found in Honda dealerships or online.

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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old 09-28-2017, 12:07 PM Thread Starter
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Tires wise, theres zero dry rot and they hold air. Hell, they still have the lil nubs on em from the factory. It was stored in a garage is whole life minus 2 years of it being ridden. Ill prolly ride it most of this fall until it snows on the tires it has on it.
Im thinking this winter I will drop the rear tire and take both front and rears in to get changed. (Prepping for a few thousand mile trip next August)
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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old 09-28-2017, 01:40 PM
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just because they hold air and have no dry rot does not necessarily mean they are good.they could be hard as a rock and have no traction. they could have flat spots from sitting in one spot and vibrate like a porn star on a symbian machine. they could have no sidewall flex and not corner well.but the couple of hundred of dollars you save can be used for the hospital bill when the bike decides to plow straight through the turn when you lay it down to corner.don't ask me how I know

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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old 09-28-2017, 01:54 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the heads up, dude. Whole streetbike thing is way different than the dirtbikes I grew up on, lol
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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old 09-28-2017, 02:04 PM
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yup.on a dirtbike I'd say use em.but on a street bike you are going A LOT faster and pavement is A LOT harder than dirt

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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old 09-28-2017, 02:41 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks again! Time to burn up the pocket book on some tires ;-)
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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old 09-28-2017, 07:46 PM
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There's a code on the tires that will tell you how old they are. I'd dump them if they are actually as old as the bike.

Short story.

I had a 1976 El Camino I got from my father in law back in '98. One of the front tires went flat. There was a spare tire behind the passenger seat. Looked brand new. Mounted it up that night.
Went in and was watching TV when I hear this loud BOOM from the garage. Went out to find that the tire didn't just blow out, it exploded..
Checked the date on the tire, it was the spare that came with the car back in '76.
Cars are one thing, but on a motorcycle your ass depends on the tires 100 times more. Don't risk your life on any tire older than 5 years....
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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old 09-28-2017, 08:30 PM Thread Starter
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Thank you, I planned on replacing em this winter when I went to lube my splines. Figured I would be okay to putt around town while I tuned it this fall.
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