Originally Posted by BillyDoc
OK, you guys scared the crap out of me so I did my final drive splines yesterday . . . and boy am I glad I did! THANKS!
......When taking it apart I carefully marked the relative position of the splines with a Sharpie marker, and then when it was out I used a diamond hone to polish a shiny spot where the marks were, this way I was able to clean everything up (I used toluene for cleaning) and still have marks for indexing the splines back the same way. I basically did everything as described above except for three things.
First, I used Krytox grease from Locktite. This cost about $36 for two ounces (more than enough for the job) and I have got to say . . . this stuff looks very good!
Second, after getting as much Krytox in the front splines as I could, I sprayed the entire propeller shaft and universal joint with a good anti-corrosion spray. I sprayed from the front and the back and was careful to hit all the inside surfaces. I donít like rust in my bike. I have had excellent luck with ďCorrosion ProĒ (LubriMatic brand) on marine engines in salt water, so it should work in there.
Third, I made a bead of Krytox grease around the flange of the propeller drive tube (where the four bolts go) and mushed it when I put the final drive housing back on in an attempt to seal this surface against water. Does Kawasaki have any engineers? Why the hell isnít there an O-ring groove and an O-ring so water canít get in and ruin our day? I tried to do the same thing with the rubber boot up front . . . but who knows. The fact that we are all having these problems is just plain BAD ENGINEERING followed by BAD EXECUTION of their bad engineering! And damn easy to fix, if they would bother.
Anyway, I think Iím set on this one for a while. Hope this helps someone.
Bill..sounds like you did an excellent job. Krytox is great stuff.
No gasket?? No O-ring??? LOL....
That's what you get when you buy a $6000 bike.
FWIW, I dabbed a little black RTV on those mating surfaces...Krytox, or even Moly, is WAY to expensive to use there.
Gotta disagree on the bad, bad, bad part....
It's more like 'simple, simple, simple....' followed by 'maintenance, maintenance, maintenance...'.
IF, and I say IF, the system is lubed properly when it is built at the factory, which IIRC was/is the source of many problems, if you check it at 6000mi as Kaw recommends (and not enough owners/dealers do), and then get on a regular maintenance schedule (10k miles for me) I think you will find the driveline will last a long time.
You definitely improved on the original design tho....typical of us riders, no???