Final drive stuck in coupling during removal. Need Help - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
Transmission / Rear End
\ Chattering Clutch? Transmission Trouble?
Rear End Woes? Splines Shot? Discuss it here!

 3Likes
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 17 (permalink) Old 02-20-2017, 07:15 PM Thread Starter
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2017
Posts: 8
iTrader: (0)
 
Exclamation Final drive stuck in coupling during removal. Need Help

I bought my 2004 VN750 this past July and she has been running great! The previous owner apparently didn't know the importance of keeping the splines lubed up and the final drive oil healthy. I was taking off after a stop light and heard a POP and lost power. With the clutch pulled and the bike in first it sounds like the teeth in the coupling are grinding the teeth from the final drive. If i leave it in first and shut the bike off i can move the bike freely forward and back and clearly hear the sound where the driveshaft meets the final drive.

So now for the issue. Today I took the back tire off and unbolted the final drive. When I tried to pull it off the final drive would not come out of the coupling. The only give it had came from the ujoint sliding off of the shaft that goes to the tranny. I put some good force into tugging on the final drive but it would not come out of the coupling.

Anyone have this issue or have any advice?? Any and all help is appreciated!

Thanks, Bradyn
boitker is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 17 (permalink) Old 02-21-2017, 09:23 AM
Old Fart
 
Knifemaker's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Catawissa, MO
Posts: 11,522
iTrader: (4)
     
Garage
Big hammer?

Sounds like the high spots have mated together. You could try starting the bike and getting it to spin off.....

If You Are Not Sure If I Am Joking or Not....I AM !!Photos:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/knifemaker1954/sets/
Knifemaker is offline  
post #3 of 17 (permalink) Old 02-21-2017, 11:36 AM
FREEBIRDS MC CENTRAL NY
 
OleDirtyDoc's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Norwich,NY
Posts: 15,824
iTrader: (0)
     
Garage
Send a message via Yahoo to OleDirtyDoc
Quote:
Originally Posted by Knifemaker View Post
Big hammer?

Sounds like the high spots have mated together. You could try starting the bike and getting it to spin off.....
yea,that sounds like a FUN idea...

Sent from my LGL34C using Tapatalk
Spockster and Hexadecimus like this.

ONE RATS ASS GIVEN PER POST
Support your local FREEBIRDS MC
1986/5 Vn700/750 Frankenfook cross eyed bitch "Mellisa Fayhe"
I am a BIKER and i'm proud.FREEBIRDS MC CENTRAL NY

lowered with progessive 412 10" shocks
rejetted for K/N Pods part#rc 2340
sportster seat

'I didn't lose my mind.i gave it away

BRING BACK WOLFIE."Peace and Carrots"RIP
"And I'm free...as a bird"John Lennon Free as a Bird
"I only carry when I have my pants on"Joe Robinson RIP aka Old Dog
OleDirtyDoc is offline  
 
post #4 of 17 (permalink) Old 02-21-2017, 03:19 PM Thread Starter
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2017
Posts: 8
iTrader: (0)
 
I used a 2 foot long lead pipe to get a good angle and then hit the top of that with a 5 pound hammer. I couldn't get it to budge. I'm hoping i don't have to cut the coupling.
boitker is offline  
post #5 of 17 (permalink) Old 02-21-2017, 03:43 PM
Senior Member
 
Spockster's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: WV
Posts: 6,280
iTrader: (5)
   
Could try putting the rear back together loosely, with just a bolt or two, put the wheel back on ... then with the trans in gear, try turning the rear wheel backward, trying to get the splines to slip off where they're jammed, or realign with good splines if there are any.

Also might need to bump the shaft forward a little, in case the pulling rearward has jammed it tighter. (before putting the bolts or wheel on)

2003-21k mi
Shaved w/UniPK92+Stock Jets-TPE/MOSFET-Shinko Tires-AGM batt-bags-chrome-LEDs...more
__________________________________________________ ____________
Repair Manual: http://www.mediafire.com/file/mj7z81..._Catalogue.pdf

Owner's Manual: http://www.mediafire.com/file/nscb5f...ers+Manual.pdf
Spockster is offline  
post #6 of 17 (permalink) Old 02-23-2017, 02:16 PM Thread Starter
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2017
Posts: 8
iTrader: (0)
 
I'll give that a try! Thanks for the advice!
boitker is offline  
post #7 of 17 (permalink) Old 02-23-2017, 07:18 PM
Senior Member
 
shark88's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Central, PA
Posts: 2,482
iTrader: (27)
 
Garage
Quote:
Originally Posted by boitker View Post
I bought my 2004 VN750 this past July and she has been running great! The previous owner apparently didn't know the importance of keeping the splines lubed up and the final drive oil healthy.
Seems like the New owner didn't know the importance either, lol. That's one of the things I've done with every one of these bikes I've bought & sold is to check the splines. Costly lesson, hope you get back on the road and enjoying it soon.

"Show me a man who makes no mistakes, and I'll show you a man who doesn't do things." Theodore Roosevelt."

2007 Victory Kingpin
Current projects - 1986 VN750 & 1988 EL250
shark88 is offline  
post #8 of 17 (permalink) Old 02-28-2017, 01:59 PM Thread Starter
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2017
Posts: 8
iTrader: (0)
 
Indeed, but now I know
boitker is offline  
post #9 of 17 (permalink) Old 02-28-2017, 03:10 PM
Retired USAF (IYAAYAS)
 
Chris and Shim's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Fredrickson Wa
Posts: 591
iTrader: (0)
 
Garage
I wonder if it could be as simple.... naw, can't be! When you finally do get it separated, check the mating surfaces where the final drive mates up to the drive shaft housing. There shouldn't be anything there. But, if some bozo in the past put some Permatex-type gasket sealer there then that could be contributing to it being stuck. (It would have to be some serious gasket sealer!) There is no need to seal it at all but, ya never know. Once again I am thinking something that shouldn't be, but, life gets weird sometimes. Is there any kind of separation at all between the final drive and drive shaft housing? I wasn't quite clear on if it was flat out stuck together or separated by a smidgeon but won't release any further. Spockster has a good idea about seeing if you can nudge the driveshaft forward. I like to check easy stuff first so also verify that there is not a washer stuck on one of the four bolts preventing it from sliding out. There shouldn't be but you'll feel like a doofus later if it IS something simple like that. I've been a doofus many times because I would skip over simple answers, thinking something was more complicated than it actually was.

TOC MCCTs
Saddlebags, hard mounted
Fork mounted tool bag (now hard mounted)
Relocated rear turn signals
LED turn signals, brake lights and running lights
LED license plate frame
Engine Guard and Highway pegs
National Cycles Low Boy Heavy Duty windshield
Home made lowers (nice)
Custom seat (made by a local guy)
Iridium plugs (DPR7EIX-9)
Shenko 230 Tour Master tires at 11,123 miles
Splines lubed at 11,123 miles
Luggage rack
Light bar with LED lights
Chris and Shim is offline  
post #10 of 17 (permalink) Old 02-28-2017, 10:00 PM Thread Starter
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2017
Posts: 8
iTrader: (0)
 
I finally got it off! It took about 20 minutes with a lead pipe, a sledge hammer, and a trusting friend. I'll upload pictures of the splines and couplings, they are beyond shot. Thanks for all the comments and support through this interesting predicament! Send anyone who needs to see how bad splines can get here!
boitker is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Bookmarks

Tags
final drive , replacement , spline , spline lube , transmission noise

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

Once registered, your User Name"cannot be changed". We can make exceptions within 7 days, but after that, it is set in stone.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome