Gears grinding - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
Transmission / Rear End
\ Chattering Clutch? Transmission Trouble?
Rear End Woes? Splines Shot? Discuss it here!

 3Likes
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 30 (permalink) Old 08-19-2016, 08:48 AM Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Posts: 957
iTrader: (0)
 
Garage
Gears grinding

On a small percentage of rides in the last year I've had very light (but unpleasant) gear grinding shifting into first and second gears. If I pull the clutch lever REALLY hard it seems to go away, but I feel like I'm way past the friction zone, and I'm literally digging the lever into my grip padding.

My clutch lever didn't have much 'slop' in it, but I removed what little I could so it's just a hair away from engaging, hoping to get just a little more travel at the 'fully sqeezed' end of things.

Is there something else I should be looking at? Is there an adjustment at the other end of the clutch cable? I feel like the friction zone is in a normal spot in the lever's swing, so I don't really feel like I should be moving anything there even if it were possible.

We don't have syncro rings in our transmission that would be wearing, right? What else could it be? Sticky clutch pads? Oil should have a few months left in it, but could something that simple be a factor? and why?

Thanks in advance. Good 'ol dad never passed on anything about engine/trans maintenance.

1992 US-nonCA * tuxedo mod * r/r relocated

Vulcan slang for newcomers
Service Manual Download
Wiring Diagram + annotations * still undergoing revisions, but still more useful than the generic one. Let me know if you find mistakes or think something additional should be added
Thorn is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 30 (permalink) Old 08-19-2016, 09:40 AM
FREEBIRDS MC CENTRAL NY
 
OleDirtyDoc's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Norwich,NY
Posts: 15,843
iTrader: (0)
     
Garage
Send a message via Yahoo to OleDirtyDoc
You can move the lever that the cable pulls a spline to get more travel.

ONE RATS ASS GIVEN PER POST
Support your local FREEBIRDS MC
1986/5 Vn700/750 Frankenfook cross eyed bitch "Mellisa Fayhe"
I am a BIKER and i'm proud.FREEBIRDS MC CENTRAL NY

lowered with progessive 412 10" shocks
rejetted for K/N Pods part#rc 2340
sportster seat

'I didn't lose my mind.i gave it away

BRING BACK WOLFIE."Peace and Carrots"RIP
"And I'm free...as a bird"John Lennon Free as a Bird
"I only carry when I have my pants on"Joe Robinson RIP aka Old Dog
OleDirtyDoc is offline  
post #3 of 30 (permalink) Old 08-19-2016, 10:03 AM
Super Moderator
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: SW Florida
Posts: 2,420
iTrader: (5)
 
I have occasional problems similar to yours.. I have done everything I can to stop it.. short of replacing the entire clutch assembly.

I have narrowed mine down to 1 of 2 things.

either I have warped steels in the clutch, or my slots the frictions ride in on the basket are worn (keeping the frictions and steels from seperating).

I have so much drag in my clutch currently (and yes, its adjusted properly) that I have to start the bike in neutral or it will try to roll forward.

and before anyone says 'it cant be adjusted right', I can remove the clutch cover, pull the lever in, and watch the pressure plate move a full 1/4 inch, possible 3/8 inch. you cant tell me thats not enough space between the pressure plate and the stack to allow all the plates/steels to seperate.

2005 VN750

Sold 11-27-17
michiganteddybear is offline  
 
post #4 of 30 (permalink) Old 08-19-2016, 10:06 AM Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Posts: 957
iTrader: (0)
 
Garage
Quote:
Originally Posted by OleDirtyDoc View Post
You can move the lever that the cable pulls a spline to get more travel.
Thanks for the suggestion, ODD.

I feel like if I tighten the cable any further or move a spline that the clutch will be only partially engaged when the lever is completely released. Its like I need to decrease the length of the lever bolted to the splined clutch shaft so it rotates more when I pull the lever, if that makes any sense ...

1992 US-nonCA * tuxedo mod * r/r relocated

Vulcan slang for newcomers
Service Manual Download
Wiring Diagram + annotations * still undergoing revisions, but still more useful than the generic one. Let me know if you find mistakes or think something additional should be added
Thorn is offline  
post #5 of 30 (permalink) Old 08-19-2016, 10:19 AM Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Posts: 957
iTrader: (0)
 
Garage
Quote:
Originally Posted by michiganteddybear View Post
I have occasional problems similar to yours.. I have done everything I can to stop it.. short of replacing the entire clutch assembly.

I have narrowed mine down to 1 of 2 things.

either I have warped steels in the clutch, or my slots the frictions ride in on the basket are worn (keeping the frictions and steels from seperating).

I have so much drag in my clutch currently (and yes, its adjusted properly) that I have to start the bike in neutral or it will try to roll forward.

and before anyone says 'it cant be adjusted right', I can remove the clutch cover, pull the lever in, and watch the pressure plate move a full 1/4 inch, possible 3/8 inch. you cant tell me thats not enough space between the pressure plate and the stack to allow all the plates/steels to seperate.
Huh, that reminds me that the last day that my gears were grinding I also had trouble pulling away from the gas station after filling my tank. Stalled out when I released the clutch as if the kickstand switch was stuck. After stalling from the kickstand (supposedly), it wouldn't start but tried to pull forward under power of the starter. Only got underway after both shifting to neutral and flipping the kickstand switch a couple times with my toe. I guess I was too flustered by the switch failure that I didn't connect the starting issue to the clutch issue later that ride.

I'll have to look at the exploded view of the steels and frictions to get a good mental image, but it sounds like I've got exactly the same issue. Thanks, MTB.

1992 US-nonCA * tuxedo mod * r/r relocated

Vulcan slang for newcomers
Service Manual Download
Wiring Diagram + annotations * still undergoing revisions, but still more useful than the generic one. Let me know if you find mistakes or think something additional should be added
Thorn is offline  
post #6 of 30 (permalink) Old 08-19-2016, 10:42 AM
Old Fart
 
Knifemaker's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Catawissa, MO
Posts: 11,536
iTrader: (4)
     
Garage
Sounds like you and MTB have a warped or damaged clutch plate. If you can't start the bike in neutral because it will jump forward (when holding the clutch lever against the grip) somethings very wrong.

Thorn, I'd suggest changing the oil and see if it helps. Having your clutch adjusted without any play in it can be dangerous...make sure when you adjust for free play you check it with the handle bars turned full left AND full right.

If it only happens when shifting to first or second, it could be a worn shifter fork. But I'd try replacing the clutch plates first.

What oil are you guys using?

If You Are Not Sure If I Am Joking or Not....I AM !!Photos:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/knifemaker1954/sets/
Knifemaker is online now  
post #7 of 30 (permalink) Old 08-19-2016, 11:06 AM
Senior Member
 
Spockster's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: WV
Posts: 6,324
iTrader: (5)
   
I'm thinking the clutch cable could be stretched, but need to know what both cable adjustments look like, as in where are they set. Moving the lower clutch lever back one spline may help.

The lower cable adjustment should take up slack if it's not already adjusted out all the way. If the clutch drag is due to a stretched cable, this should help. I would try there before moving the lower lever.

2003-21k mi
Shaved w/UniPK92+Stock Jets-TPE/MOSFET-Shinko Tires-AGM batt-bags-chrome-LEDs...more
__________________________________________________ ____________
Repair Manual: http://www.mediafire.com/file/mj7z81..._Catalogue.pdf

Owner's Manual: http://www.mediafire.com/file/nscb5f...ers+Manual.pdf
Spockster is offline  
post #8 of 30 (permalink) Old 08-19-2016, 11:09 AM Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Posts: 957
iTrader: (0)
 
Garage
Quote:
Originally Posted by Knifemaker View Post
If you can't start the bike in neutral because it will jump forward (when holding the clutch lever against the grip) somethings very wrong.
It sure feels wrong!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Knifemaker View Post
I'd suggest changing the oil and see if it helps.
I'll change the oil, but the episodes of "grindiness" happen so infrequently and sporadically that I won't know if the change has made a difference or not. Sort of frustrating from a diagnostics standpoint.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Knifemaker View Post
Having your clutch adjusted without any play in it can be dangerous...make sure when you adjust for free play you check it with the handle bars turned full left AND full right.
Yeah, I'll double-check with the forks at both extremes.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Knifemaker View Post
If it only happens when shifting to first or second, it could be a worn shifter fork. But I'd try replacing the clutch plates first.
I'll tuck that part name away for investigation if it comes to a teardown. Thanks.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Knifemaker View Post
What oil are you guys using?
I'm running rotella 15w40 as suggested by several on the forum.

Usually my shifting is totally normal ... I'll start paying attention to atmospheric variables to see if there's a common thread to when the problem occurs. This most recent time the bike was warmed up (after half of an 8 mile ride) but the air was cool and damp. Not sure if that will factor in to some tolerance issue or oil viscosity anomaly or whatnot.

1992 US-nonCA * tuxedo mod * r/r relocated

Vulcan slang for newcomers
Service Manual Download
Wiring Diagram + annotations * still undergoing revisions, but still more useful than the generic one. Let me know if you find mistakes or think something additional should be added
Thorn is offline  
post #9 of 30 (permalink) Old 08-19-2016, 11:20 AM
Senior Member
 
Spockster's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: WV
Posts: 6,324
iTrader: (5)
   
Quote:
Originally Posted by Spockster View Post
I'm thinking the clutch cable could be stretched, but need to know what both cable adjustments look like, as in where are they set. Moving the lower clutch lever back one spline may help.

The lower cable adjustment should take up slack if it's not already adjusted out all the way. If the clutch drag is due to a stretched cable, this should help. I would try there before moving the lower lever.
Just in case you missed post #7, we were posting at the same time.

Rotella 15w40 is no problem.

I'll guess that the top cable adjuster is all the way out. ??

Sounds like there isn't quite enough pull on the cable to release the clutch all the way. - stretched cable

2003-21k mi
Shaved w/UniPK92+Stock Jets-TPE/MOSFET-Shinko Tires-AGM batt-bags-chrome-LEDs...more
__________________________________________________ ____________
Repair Manual: http://www.mediafire.com/file/mj7z81..._Catalogue.pdf

Owner's Manual: http://www.mediafire.com/file/nscb5f...ers+Manual.pdf
Spockster is offline  
post #10 of 30 (permalink) Old 08-19-2016, 11:21 AM Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Posts: 957
iTrader: (0)
 
Garage
Quote:
Originally Posted by Spockster View Post
I'm thinking the clutch cable could be stretched, but need to know what both cable adjustments look like, as in where are they set. Moving the lower clutch lever back one spline may help.
The cable isn't stretched, and I hit the friction zone as soon as I pull the clutch lever. In fact I'm going to give it some slack, basically setting it back to where it was initially cause I'm pretty sure its a bit too tight, though I only adjusted it a very slight amount after the last gear grinding episode.

The behavior while riding is more like the cable is 'stretchy' and can never be pulled far enough no matter how tight the cable is adjusted when the lever is released. Of course that isn't really the case, and it's much more likely that the friction plates just aren't releasing somehow.

I'm guessing the clutch cable isn't attatched to something that pulls the friction plates apart when the lever is pulled, and they're just designed to 'fall away' from each other when they aren't being actively mashed together by the pressure plate?

1992 US-nonCA * tuxedo mod * r/r relocated

Vulcan slang for newcomers
Service Manual Download
Wiring Diagram + annotations * still undergoing revisions, but still more useful than the generic one. Let me know if you find mistakes or think something additional should be added
Thorn is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Bookmarks

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

Once registered, your User Name"cannot be changed". We can make exceptions within 7 days, but after that, it is set in stone.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome