Floppy gear selector wont go in any gear (video) - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
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post #1 of 139 (permalink) Old 04-17-2016, 06:04 PM Thread Starter
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Floppy gear selector wont go in any gear (video)

Yesterday i drove my bike around yard in 1st gear only and it was hard to get into first from neutral (though i have 0 experience in shifting)

Today, something happened where bike is in neutral (rear wheel free) BUT no neut. light and wont start unless i squeeze clutch. '

The gear selector is just totally floppy in full range.

Keep in mind i dont know anythibg beyond the pattern and how to drive in 1st so far..

Video of problem:
http://youtu.be/CSCNi-MWKoM

Bike is 2002 with 7.4k miles. The current oil is 10w-40 that is motorcycle safe (not energy/resource conserving)

Last edited by gidaeon; 04-17-2016 at 06:36 PM.
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post #2 of 139 (permalink) Old 04-17-2016, 10:36 PM
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Classic symptom of the dreaded broken shift rod. You can flop that shift pedal all day and it won't do anything but make noise as it hits it's limit. The part needed to fix it is inexpensive but you will be tearing the motor down almost entirely to replace it. It is a good time to replace the balancers and stator while you are in there. Not a difficult job if mechanically inclined but quite involved. Good luck!!
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post #3 of 139 (permalink) Old 04-17-2016, 10:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dragon159 View Post
Classic symptom of the dreaded broken shift rod. You can flop that shift pedal all day and it won't do anything but make noise as it hits it's limit. The part needed to fix it is inexpensive but you will be tearing the motor down almost entirely to replace it. It is a good time to replace the balancers and stator while you are in there. Not a difficult job if mechanically inclined but quite involved. Good luck!!
+ + + on ALL your words....
10-12 hours with engine pulll.....
The upgraded Shift linkage 2003(?) or newer..... ? ? ?
$8. - $10.00 part....

- _

'86 VN750 13,700 mi -Stock
-Purchased 2008 w/8800mi
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Splines Lubed - 11/4/2012 - MF AGM Battery
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Dampers went out @ 13+K !
After TOC MCCT's..... so amazingly quiet I discovered a rattling heat shield on my stock exhaust !
...have a vulcan good day!
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post #4 of 139 (permalink) Old 04-17-2016, 11:07 PM
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Here is a link to roach's engine rebuild videos.
https://www.vn750.com/forum/31-engine...ld-videos.html

see number 7 for the dismantling, and number 17 for re-assembly.

If you are mechanically inclined and have garage, big shed or at least a covered driveway to work in, you may be able to change it yourself. Be patient and take your time if this your first experience in motorcycle repair. We all have to start somewhere. No one here started knowing everything we know now.
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post #5 of 139 (permalink) Old 04-18-2016, 11:01 AM Thread Starter
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I really hope that level of removal and teardown is not the case as thats is more than i can handle at this point. :-(

IF its actaully the lever comp, tie rod assembly, the spring or Pawl i CAN do totally do it. (I have not looked underneath bike) a quick peek can rule out the first two. <----EDIT: totally NO true, different model with some external linkages

I guess i am wondering how you diagnose shift rod over the other items?

Last edited by gidaeon; 04-18-2016 at 07:45 PM.
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post #6 of 139 (permalink) Old 04-18-2016, 11:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gidaeon View Post
I really hope that level of removal and teardown is not the case as thats is more than i can handle at this point. :-(

IF its actaully the lever comp, tie rod assembly, the spring or Pawl i CAN do totally do it. (I have not looked underneath bike) a quick peek can rule out the first two.

I guess i am wondering how you diagnose shift rod over the other items?
If you see no external damage, it's the linkage. Super common, especially when people shift aggressively with heavy boots. I see it all the time, slamming into gear at lights, etc. It all adds up over time. I try to baby it into gear.

To be honest, if you don't want to do the work, find a donor engine for 250-500. They're more common back east, within drivable distance probably. Here in Cali there aren't many engines to come by.

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post #7 of 139 (permalink) Old 04-18-2016, 07:10 PM Thread Starter
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One note: my shift lever has no real side to side play 1/8" or less. Does that matter or indicate anything at this point?

Finding an engine would still involve removing and installation which is half the battle. I am seriously bummed but I now see how all the linkage is internal. I will start by watching roach's videos.

Should I remove the side covers first the by the shift lever, and the oil window (terminology?) to make sure there is nothing than can be done without complete engine removal? (A bit terrified of splitting if I have to remove other internals)

Removal isn't what scares me so much as the reassembly, I am concerned I would put it back together, miss something or have ill-fitment and have to tear it apart again.

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Last edited by gidaeon; 04-18-2016 at 08:38 PM.
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post #8 of 139 (permalink) Old 04-18-2016, 08:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gidaeon View Post
Yesterday i drove my bike around yard in 1st gear only and it was hard to get into first from neutral (though i have 0 experience in shifting)

Today, something happened where bike is in neutral (rear wheel free) BUT no neut. light and wont start unless i squeeze clutch. '

The gear selector is just totally floppy in full range.

Keep in mind i dont know anythibg beyond the pattern and how to drive in 1st so far..

Video of problem:
http://youtu.be/CSCNi-MWKoM

Bike is 2002 with 7.4k miles. The current oil is 10w-40 that is motorcycle safe (not energy/resource conserving)

I heartily disagree! You knows PLENTY! And you knows how to make and post a good video! I lubbs videos, and you just finally solved one of my biggest questions to date...

WHAT DOES THE ENGINE SOUND LIKE RUNNING AT 1200 RPM.

Wooot! I have no tach. :/ But now i can ear it!

THANK YOU!
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post #9 of 139 (permalink) Old 04-18-2016, 09:00 PM
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Originally Posted by thtanner View Post
If you see no external damage, it's the linkage. Super common, especially when people shift aggressively with heavy boots. I see it all the time, slamming into gear at lights, etc. It all adds up over time. I try to baby it into gear.

To be honest, if you don't want to do the work, find a donor engine for 250-500. They're more common back east, within drivable distance probably. Here in Cali there aren't many engines to come by.
Did you hear the sound of his engine as he leaned to the left to show the lever? That's the "grainy" sound that One1 was talking about in my own vid, right? or no?

And ima thinking about heading down to your place just to borrow your ears, actually, and yes, before tearing her down, and yes, with 7 year old front and 10 year old tires. ( grins )

THAT information, in and of itself, is priceless to my entire planning, scheduling, and fiscal income appropriation. I don't mind spending what little i have on the bike, but wasting money on it i simply cannot afford.
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post #10 of 139 (permalink) Old 04-18-2016, 09:06 PM
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Didn't catch the video until now... Yep, looks like the internal rod is broken.

That 1/8" side play is good. When you start taking the side case off, Note there are two thin washers that ride on the shifter shaft about 6-8" apart, they keep the shaft at the correct depth in the case and the side play tight.

There was one poster that was able to fish through the case holes and fix the spring clip, but it sounded like micro-surgery. I'm pretty sure your problem is deep inside with the long rod.

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