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post #1 of 4 (permalink) Old 11-15-2015, 06:03 PM Thread Starter
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Clutch Cable

Hi guys. I'm a new Vulcan 750 owner and I'm new to biking. The clutch lever on my '93 Vulcan feels very stiff when I squeeze it to change gear. Not having any previous biking experience I don't know if it's meant to be this stiff. My brother who has been biking for a few years was the first to comment on how stiff it is. Could it just need lubing up maybe? If so, how is it done? Gear changes are fine and everything feels smooth......... Just really STIFF!!!!! I've perused the Vulcan Verses and did a couple of searches but can't find my specific problem.

Cheers guys.
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post #2 of 4 (permalink) Old 11-16-2015, 12:26 PM
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Originally Posted by skinnylizzy View Post
Hi guys. I'm a new Vulcan 750 owner and I'm new to biking. The clutch lever on my '93 Vulcan feels very stiff when I squeeze it to change gear. Not having any previous biking experience I don't know if it's meant to be this stiff. My brother who has been biking for a few years was the first to comment on how stiff it is. Could it just need lubing up maybe? If so, how is it done? Gear changes are fine and everything feels smooth......... Just really STIFF!!!!! I've perused the Vulcan Verses and did a couple of searches but can't find my specific problem.

Cheers guys.
Start with the basics; lubing the cable and pivot points.

Everyone has their favorite method of lubing cables. Most of these methods involve removing the control cables to some extent. I lube control cables once a year using Bike Aid Dri-Slide, a moly-graphite mix with a needle applicator. NO need to remove control cables, only takes a few minutes to do all control cables, and there is very little mess.
  1. Place a paper towel at the bottom of the control cable opening
  2. Insert the needle applicator into the upper cable opening
  3. Squeeze gently, and let gravity do the work
  4. Stop squeezing when drips appear at the bottom cable opening onto the paper towel
  5. Done

Now lube the pivot points with whatever lube you have/like.

The rear brake is a little tricky because the cable archs, but it too can be lubed without removal by manipulating the arch in the cable. Bike Aid Dri-Slide is available in every Harley dealer, most other motorcycle shops, and bicycle shops. A $14 bottle will last several years. My current bottle is on its third year and I'll easily get another 5 years out of it.



p.s. Soak the BikeAid needle applicator in rubbing alcohol after use/before storing to keep it from getting clogged.


Chris Glennon - Portland, OR
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post #3 of 4 (permalink) Old 11-16-2015, 02:10 PM
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They do sell cable lube at bike shops that come with a "special tool" for lubing cables. This might work better for you as it does a better job of cleaning crap out of the cable housing than the dry slide stuff does.

Make sure there are not any kinks or breaks in the cable...one broken strand is all it takes to make movement difficult.

I use 3 in 1 oil, I take a small toy ballon and pour about a ounce of oil in it, the push the whole end of the cable inside the ballon. Then take a rubber band and tie the neck of the ballon to the top part of the cable housing.

Then just hold the ballon up with the cable so it's higher than the rest of the cable and let the oil work its way down inside. When you see it running out of he bottom, your done. You can use a plastic bag if you don't have a ballon...just cut the corner out enough for the cable end to fit in so its inside the bag, and tie down with the rubber band or string.

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post #4 of 4 (permalink) Old 11-16-2015, 05:19 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the replies guys. On closer inspection, I see the cable has been getting pinched when the handlebars are turned fully to the left, this has cut through the rubber sleeving and has caused the cable to become a bit rusty in that spot. I've ordered a Motion Pro cable to replace it but will definitely use your advice moving forward. Thanks again guys.
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