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\ Chattering Clutch? Transmission Trouble?
Rear End Woes? Splines Shot? Discuss it here!

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post #1 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-21-2015, 03:21 PM Thread Starter
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Clutch

I've adjusted the clutch and it is shifting ok but less soo when it gets warmed up. Is there something to cause it not to shift properly when warm?

Also, In third to fourth if I shift it engages but then if I accelerate quickly it lags and then jumps a little. Feels like the clutch is holding back a little then the bike takes off.

Since the bike had been sitting for so many years but only has two hundred miles on her I'm thinking I can clean up those plates. Any ideas on how to accomplish this. Maybe the plates are oxidized. Can I sandpaper them? 220?


I'm thinking, before taking the plates out I can take the fitting off of the bottom which attaches to the bike and turn it slightly and reattach I can possible readjust it so it works. What bothers me is the gap doesn't line up with the notch on the bike when adjusted. This is how it's depicted in the photo. with so few miles on the bike the cable is solid and not stretched.

Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!

2008 Vulcan 900 Classic LT
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Chrome Slotted oval Mirrors
Chilhowee Tank Bra
Barons Big Air Kit
Vance & Hines Twin Slash staggered
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1991 Vulcan 750 226 miles
Spiegler brake lines
rebuilt calipers, master brake cylinder
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post #2 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-21-2015, 07:32 PM
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pop the cover off and make sure the springs r tight and and not binding from sitting make sure the plates r wet
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post #3 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-21-2015, 07:38 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by heaney750 View Post
pop the cover off and make sure the springs r tight and and not binding from sitting make sure the plates r wet
Thanks!

2008 Vulcan 900 Classic LT
HID lighting 35 Watt White
Chrome Slotted oval Mirrors
Chilhowee Tank Bra
Barons Big Air Kit
Vance & Hines Twin Slash staggered
EJK Gen 3 Electronic Jet Kit

1991 Vulcan 750 226 miles
Spiegler brake lines
rebuilt calipers, master brake cylinder
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post #4 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-21-2015, 08:19 PM
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Question

Quote:
In third to fourth if I shift it engages but then if I accelerate quickly it lags and then jumps a little. Feels like the clutch is holding back a little then the bike takes off.
Can you tell if the clutch is slipping, or if it's just a delay in engagement (like coffee grinder syndrome)?

Quote:
it is shifting ok but less soo when it gets warmed up.
What sort of trouble shifting? Clashing of gears or sticky shifter, something else?

I'm still leaning toward varnish from sitting, and some time with seafoam in the oil may be needed, or taken apart and cleaned. Could be sticking in the clutch basket or it could be the rod that crosses over from the cable side to the clutch side. Chance it could be sticky in the rack/pinion setup, but less likely I'd think.

What oil did you put in it? Brand and weight.

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post #5 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-21-2015, 08:28 PM
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Could the splines be starting to go?to see if the clutch is slipping bring it down to about 40 on a hill and accelerate. If it just bogs and slowly accelerates then it's not slipping. If it revs ta the moon Alice than Lucy we got some 'splainin to do

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post #6 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-21-2015, 08:51 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spockster View Post
Can you tell if the clutch is slipping, or if it's just a delay in engagement (like coffee grinder syndrome)?



What sort of trouble shifting? Clashing of gears or sticky shifter, something else?

I'm still leaning toward varnish from sitting, and some time with seafoam in the oil may be needed, or taken apart and cleaned. Could be sticking in the clutch basket or it could be the rod that crosses over from the cable side to the clutch side. Chance it could be sticky in the rack/pinion setup, but less likely I'd think.

What oil did you put in it? Brand and weight.
Rotella. I have to check the weight.

it's a delay but don't hear a sound. Trouble shifting comes from the slipping then it pops in gear well after releasing clutch. The bike feels free to accelerate.

I've also looked over the Vulcan verses. I'm going with your hunch about varnish on the plates. Does soaking get the varnish off or do I use an abrasive of some sort?

2008 Vulcan 900 Classic LT
HID lighting 35 Watt White
Chrome Slotted oval Mirrors
Chilhowee Tank Bra
Barons Big Air Kit
Vance & Hines Twin Slash staggered
EJK Gen 3 Electronic Jet Kit

1991 Vulcan 750 226 miles
Spiegler brake lines
rebuilt calipers, master brake cylinder
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post #7 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-21-2015, 08:56 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OleDirtyDoc View Post
Could the splines be starting to go?to see if the clutch is slipping bring it down to about 40 on a hill and accelerate. If it just bogs and slowly accelerates then it's not slipping. If it revs ta the moon Alice than Lucy we got some 'splainin to do
With 225 miles on the bike I don't know how it would be the splines but stranger things have happened. I'm going to check it out tomorrow after work.

the verses say the clutch has issues which were engineered into it. I'm not about to dump money into a new clutch or springs. I guess we will see.

Thanks brother.

2008 Vulcan 900 Classic LT
HID lighting 35 Watt White
Chrome Slotted oval Mirrors
Chilhowee Tank Bra
Barons Big Air Kit
Vance & Hines Twin Slash staggered
EJK Gen 3 Electronic Jet Kit

1991 Vulcan 750 226 miles
Spiegler brake lines
rebuilt calipers, master brake cylinder
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post #8 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-21-2015, 09:13 PM
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I would go with a solvent, soap, or other chemical strong enough to dissolve it. Gasoline may be enough, a brass brush may help (not steel). Super Clean?

I wouldn't sand the friction material at all. If the plates are sticking, it's probably going to be the tabs that stick out into the sides of the basket, or the ones that engage the inside of the basket.

Would also pull the long rod and clean it. Could maybe sand it with 400 wet, but sand it lengthwise instead of twisting the paper around it. Scratches or grooves around the rod might make it stick worse. Lengthwise should be fine. 220 may be a bit too rough. If it cleans up with soap/solvent, no sanding should be needed.

May as well clean the basket too since you'll have to take it out.

Remember, one tab of one clutch plate is offset from the others on reassembly. Could take a pic before pulling the basket.

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Shaved w/UniPK92+Stock Jets-TPE/MOSFET-Shinko Tires-AGM batt-bags-chrome-LEDs...more
__________________________________________________ ____________
Repair Manual: http://www.mediafire.com/file/mj7z81..._Catalogue.pdf

Owner's Manual: http://www.mediafire.com/file/nscb5f...ers+Manual.pdf

Last edited by Spockster; 05-21-2015 at 09:15 PM.
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post #9 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-21-2015, 09:32 PM
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There's a chance it could all be on that long rod, but I'm not sure if it would be easier to pull the bevel gear vs. the clutch basket to get to it or not.

2003-21k mi
Shaved w/UniPK92+Stock Jets-TPE/MOSFET-Shinko Tires-AGM batt-bags-chrome-LEDs...more
__________________________________________________ ____________
Repair Manual: http://www.mediafire.com/file/mj7z81..._Catalogue.pdf

Owner's Manual: http://www.mediafire.com/file/nscb5f...ers+Manual.pdf
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post #10 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-22-2015, 06:01 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spockster View Post
There's a chance it could all be on that long rod, but I'm not sure if it would be easier to pull the bevel gear vs. the clutch basket to get to it or not.
Easier? I have problems with peanut butter and jelly sandwiches. I won't use any abrasives. I may post pictures. Thanks for the offset information I will take pictures. I've been looking through the Claymer manual and should be ready to take things apart tonight. Thanks for your help and guidance.

2008 Vulcan 900 Classic LT
HID lighting 35 Watt White
Chrome Slotted oval Mirrors
Chilhowee Tank Bra
Barons Big Air Kit
Vance & Hines Twin Slash staggered
EJK Gen 3 Electronic Jet Kit

1991 Vulcan 750 226 miles
Spiegler brake lines
rebuilt calipers, master brake cylinder
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