Final Drive Gear Case Problems - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
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\ Chattering Clutch? Transmission Trouble?
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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-02-2015, 03:38 AM Thread Starter
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Final Drive Gear Case Problems

Hello to all.

So I had to replace the stator in my 94 Vulcan 750 and looked up what I could to get the engine out. Everything had been going great until the end. The final shaft was a little fickle to get on so I kept popping it off and taking a eye at it to make sure I had everything in the right order. In the process of flipping it over the clutch cable attachment got mixed up in directions and dropped out what I think is a "Rack and Pinion set up" (many hours of searching just to figure out what it might be called, not sure), I really haven't a clue how it fell out or how to even get it back in. I removed the outside cover for its insert and figured it was better to put it in from the back after I got the rest in yet I'm not sure how this aligns.

I looked at the service manual provided here on this site for every bit of information I could get on everything to do the job of removing the engine but some things it is very vague and I spent many hours trying to figure out if what I am looking at is really the part it is and what I do find doesn't give or say much or anything on properly getting it in.

I have a couple pictures of me holding the item with it next to its home and one better of what I'm looking at. I got it in on what I understand of the service manual provided but when I use the clutch there is not a lot play and it doesn't shift. When I try to shift it by hand instead of the cable it moves but does nothing. I can't feel it engaging or even any action in it, it just flops around in it's little tight space. I've put it in at different steps on the pin but nothing gives it action and nothing responds. I can shift the bike without the clutch but I'm pretty certain that is something I'm not wanting to ride out onto the road with P

Anything to get my baby on the road would be much obliged. Last step and I get net busted. This is what happens when my first tare down goes a little toooo smooth
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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-02-2015, 06:59 AM
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not 100% positive on this, but I believe you can put that back in with the front bevel gear off the engine. it appears to drop into the front bevel gear case where the pinion is (what the clutch lever mounts on).

I know you can pull the front bevel without pulling the engine (have done this myself), but it might be easier reinstalling if the final drive is off the bike, so you can move the drive shaft around to get it aligned again.

the clutch release rod will stay in the transmission when you pull the front bevel assy.

2005 VN750

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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-02-2015, 04:48 PM Thread Starter
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when the bloody thing dropped out it was when the housing was off the bike. After I couldn't figure out how to get it back aligned or how far it was ment to sit. I looked at the manual that was posted up on this site for reference but it only tells how to put it in from the outside. So trying it that way it doesn't actuate anything. Either I'm missing a step somewhere and having a blonde moment or I'm looking at the wrong thing.

tocmanufacturing.com/Files%20for%20Download/VN750%20Manual%20and%20Parts.pdf Page 108. I'll be taring it apart soon enough to look at the inside more.
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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-02-2015, 06:53 PM
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I believe that them instructions are for installing the shaft that the lever connects to, not the 'rack' that goes inside the front bevel case that the shaft (pinion) operates on. but then again I could be having my own blonde hour.. I just don't see how that part can be installed from outside the assembly by the pictures.

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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-03-2015, 06:39 PM Thread Starter
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Unhappy

so I'm still trying to get this going and I have pulled it apart and inserted it from the inside, double checked how it sits, popped the back cover to it off and looked at it and how it goes in and slapped it back together. I attached my clutch cable and adjusted it, Started the bike and let it run for a bit to let it all flow and go to push the clutch and it sinks all the way down but doesn't spring back at all. I put it in gear while up on it's center stand and tried manually opening and closing the valve/pinion on my own and nothing reacts with the clutch. I have no clutch what so ever for stopping it. All I can do is shift, break and go, but nothing to idle the bike at a stand still. This thing is really grinding on my mind in trying to trouble shoot and still no results. Is this something that is ment to have a spring to it in the back or is it just oil pressure that gets it to spring back? Still missing what I can't see... I attached another picture of the clutch cable part that I've been toying with, does this spring back on it's own or how does this work? Anyone able to tell me if it's just the rack and pinion or a spring gone awal?
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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-03-2015, 09:36 PM
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when installing the clutch lever onto that shaft, make sure you rotate the shaft as far as it will go by hand (counter clockwise viewed from bottom I believe). then place the lever onto the shaft with the split in the lever aligned with the mark (the line cast into the housing). also, make sure your putting the lever onto the shaft properly (the lever should be closest to the engine when installed)

the clutch lever, cable, handle, everything involved in its operation is spring loaded from the pressure plate, on the opposite side of the engine. there is a long shaft that runs from it over to the rack.

it sounds like it might be together right, but just not properly adjusted.

after looking at the last pic a few dozen times, is that shaft fully installed? I don't remember mine sticking out that far (I think the splines where just about even with the case)

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Last edited by michiganteddybear; 05-03-2015 at 09:40 PM.
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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-03-2015, 11:30 PM Thread Starter
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Question

Thanks so much for trying to figure this with me mate, Still a work in progress. Took some more pictures for what I've done and know so far.

I removed the Bevel Gear housing again, disassembled the rack and pinion, and would like some more guidance.

The shaft in picture one I know removes and slides back into place, how this works from the other side is out of my knowledge. Reading from another posting on putting it back in someone wrote

(When you put it back on:
After you've had it off pull the rod for the clutch out and set it aside. Disconnect your clutch cable from the spline in the bottom of the housing. Remove the cover on the side of the housing (has a slot in it and it just unscrews). Turn the spline (the one that had the cable on it) and remove the little slider that is in there.

After you line the bevel gear casing up and have a few bolts in you can just slide that rod in and you will feel it go all the way in. Then you just put the slider in next and put the cap back on. I've found this to be a lot easier than trying to get the housing over the rod and keep the gasket lined up. You should then adjust the clutch cable when you reinstall.)

So I know I can work around the rod, rack and pinion without binding things up.

Once the housing is back on I put the clutch rod back in, and insert the rack back into the housing with the pinion. Attached 2nd picture for what I have been doing. The Rack I unscrewed it to push it it more but it actually doesn't scoot any closer to the housing and doesn't bind up, works smoothly as far as I can tell.

Once I put the housing back on, insert the rod, adjust the pinion into the back forward and close it all up I start it up and let it run for a few minutes on the back stand in gear to allow oil to flow back into the housing (I've done this in neutral also) So when I run the bike in first I'm adjusting the rack back and forth to manually "push the clutch in" I get no resistance from the pinion when I roll the rack in either direction.

I can shift the bike through it's RPMs using the shift peddle without using the clutch handle. When I turn the Pinion to get the rack to actuate turning to the left or right in first (like pulling the clutch handle in) the bike revs and still drives the tire at full speed. Until I kick it into neutral the tire spins at full speed even with the clutch pulled.

How does the rod and pinion work together to activate the Clutch. Is this pressurized by the oil? Why do I get no resistance from the Rod when I turn the rack and pinion and why does the bike run at full speed with the clutch in or out? If the clutch was working shouldn't I get resistance on the pinion from the rack pushing back on the rod?
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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-04-2015, 08:21 AM
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ok, the clutch is not operated by oil pressure, strickly mechanical from the lever. If your able to spin the splined shaft freely (it will turn some, with very little friction, then start pushing on the clutch rod and stop), something isnt installed right. when that shaft is turned, the rack portion moves to push the clutch rod (long rod sticking out in pic 1) which in turn pushes on the pressure plate to release the clutch.

when the spined shaft rotates, it should be moving that 6 toothed rack in and out. (in towards transmission releases the clutch).

when I had my front bevel off the bike, I didnt need to disassemble any of it. I left the clutch rod in place and didnt mess with the splined shaft or the 6 tooth 'gear' at all.

by running at full speed whether or not the clutch is in or out, are you referring to engine speed? or rear wheel speed? Also, unless there is some friction or drag on the rear wheel, even with clutch fully disengaged, you will get some rotation (nature of our wet clutch)

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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-04-2015, 03:49 PM Thread Starter
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Lightbulb

I think you just answered my questions and solved hopefully solved my brain fart.

So when you pull the clutch the pinion turns and pushes the rack, which forces the rod to be pushed into the pressure plate on the other side of the engine?? So really it's not something you can do by hand but a lever pulley system which eventually compresses the rod and the rod springs back due to resistance and pressure from the other side?
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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-04-2015, 05:04 PM
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yup that's how it works.

actually a very simple system overall.

the clutch rod goes right thru the center of the clutch stack, and presses the pressure plate away from the stack (to the order of 1/4 inch or more).

2005 VN750

Sold 11-27-17

Last edited by michiganteddybear; 05-04-2015 at 05:07 PM.
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