NEW clutch not engaging!!! - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
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post #1 of 16 (permalink) Old 03-28-2015, 05:22 PM Thread Starter
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NEW clutch not engaging!!!

I just put in new clutch plates. Fired it up and went to go and now it won't move at all! Someone please tell me what the deal is.
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post #2 of 16 (permalink) Old 03-28-2015, 05:58 PM
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is the pressure plate centered correctly (the part with the 5 bolts and springs)
are the bolts (with the springs) correctly torqued?
is the rod from the left side of engine that passes thru the basket to release the pressure plate correctly installed?
is the clutch adjusted correctly?
did you soak the clutch disks (frictions) in clean motorycycle oil before installing? (note, I said motorcycle oil, or other oil that's safe for our wet clutches)
did you offset the last plate one tab? (most of the tabs line up, last plate is offset 1 tab)

last but not least, are the rear splines in good order? (if they are stripped, you aint going anywhere). note: REAR splines, the ones at the rearmost bevel gear where the driveshaft connects to the rear final drive

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post #3 of 16 (permalink) Old 03-28-2015, 06:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cjack99 View Post
I just put in new clutch plates. Fired it up and went to go and now it won't move at all! Someone please tell me what the deal is.
What year bike? It makes a difference how the friction plates are installed. Did you install the chamfered spacer with the chamfer facing inward?

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post #4 of 16 (permalink) Old 03-28-2015, 06:04 PM
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Any drag at all, like it's trying to pull?

What does the clutch lever feel like? Normal and springs back? Or loose and doesn't spring back?

Didn't place a steel at the bottom of the stack, did you?

Could be the clutch rod is stuck in the released position. The rod that crosses through the case to the clutch.

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post #5 of 16 (permalink) Old 03-28-2015, 07:01 PM
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post #6 of 16 (permalink) Old 03-28-2015, 07:35 PM
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What year bike? It makes a difference how the friction plates are installed. Did you install the chamfered spacer with the chamfer facing inward?
the older ones did have grooves on the frictions that mattered, later changed to grooves that didn't matter. they are interchangeable to the best of my knowlegde

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post #7 of 16 (permalink) Old 03-28-2015, 07:51 PM
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Quote:
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the older ones did have grooves on the frictions that mattered, later changed to grooves that didn't matter. they are interchangeable to the best of my knowlegde
The older models have different cut groves and must be lined up so the groves go inward when rotating counterclockwise. Newer models have only radially cut groves and it doesn't matter.

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2001 Vulcan 750
marbled
TOC upgrade on ACCT
Air/fuel mixture set to 2 1/2 out
rectifier relocated
splines lubed
iridiums
decals removed
upgraded mirrors
Pic up coil mod done
degoated
All LED lighting
Upgraded Mosfet rectifier
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post #8 of 16 (permalink) Old 03-28-2015, 08:54 PM
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now that is a pethora of info lol
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post #9 of 16 (permalink) Old 03-28-2015, 09:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JM2001 View Post
The older models have different cut groves and must be lined up so the groves go inward when rotating counterclockwise. Newer models have only radially cut groves and it doesn't matter.
right, there is no other difference in the clutch's over the years. you don't mix/match the 2 types of frictions, but you can put new frictions into older year clutch packs as long as you change them all

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post #10 of 16 (permalink) Old 03-29-2015, 09:12 AM Thread Starter
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I'm hoping that I just need to adjust the cable. The lever is very firm with no play. Before I put in the new plates the clutch would engage but slip under load. Now I have nothing. I started with a friction pad and ended with a friction pad. The last pad is offset from the rest. I'm going to put slack in the cable and hope that I get results. If not I'll be pulling the cover to double check that everything is installed correctly.
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