Changed the clutch plates. Few questions. - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
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post #1 of 20 (permalink) Old 08-13-2014, 04:09 PM Thread Starter
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Changed the clutch plates. Few questions.

Just got done change out the clutch plates. The spacer plates I got were the wrong ones. The original ones only have maybe 22,000 miles on them and seem in good shape. Should I still change them?

Second. The clutch lever is very hard to pull on now. I haven't put oil in yet either though. With the oil in will the clutch lever pull easier?

Im also going to change the clutch cable. Any advice on it? Is there a write up on this project? I know it can be a pain adjusting it.

Thanks for any help.


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post #2 of 20 (permalink) Old 08-13-2014, 06:53 PM
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If you're going to use the same spacer plates, go over both sides with some 220 grit sandpaper.
Not sure about the oil thing as there is no need to drain the oil when replacing the clutch plates...

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post #3 of 20 (permalink) Old 08-13-2014, 07:09 PM
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Ditto what Knife said....also....did you soak the new clutch friction plates in oil overnight ?.....

Now....beyond that....there are 2 main adjustment points for the clutch.....once you install a new one, there is one along the cable along the left side front downtube....close that one all the way first....see where it goes....you might be able to just adjust from the handlebar then....

I like what is called a "2 finger"....engagement starts just beyond releasing a 2 finger distance between the lever and the grip....



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post #4 of 20 (permalink) Old 08-13-2014, 08:59 PM Thread Starter
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Yes I did soak them in oil so I'm good there.

The bike needs a oil change some while it is up getting the clutch changed I drained the oil. So now I guess my next question is, doesn't the engine oil lube the clutch? Always thought that was the case. I know that's how it works on my VTX.


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'93 750 Vulcan

DONE
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Re-Jet
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post #5 of 20 (permalink) Old 08-13-2014, 09:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Freeswilly View Post
Yes I did soak them in oil so I'm good there.

The bike needs a oil change some while it is up getting the clutch changed I drained the oil. So now I guess my next question is, doesn't the engine oil lube the clutch? Always thought that was the case. I know that's how it works on my VTX.
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post #6 of 20 (permalink) Old 08-13-2014, 10:14 PM
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There is also a service bulletin that had you drill the clutch housing to prevent the coffee grinder effect.

https://www.vn750.com/forum/showthread.php?t=22848


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post #7 of 20 (permalink) Old 08-13-2014, 10:58 PM
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Quote:
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There is also a service bulletin that had you drill the clutch housing to prevent the coffee grinder effect.

https://www.vn750.com/forum/showthread.php?t=22848
FreeWillie, At this point I'd suggest ignoring the above comment. No offence but with your current mechanic knowledge I'd suggest just keeping things simple and pass on drilling the clutch basket. Consider drilling the cutch basket after you've ridden your new clutch for a while but no rush on that modification.

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post #8 of 20 (permalink) Old 08-13-2014, 11:10 PM
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1987 and newer baskets shoud be drilled....and VoipDoc knows his sheit....
For some reason, the earlier bikes had no issues....also had no issues with dry splines either....

I gotta ask....hope yer not using a synthetic oil....that will fook up a wet clutch....also, the heaviest visc you wanna run is a 10-40 inless you live in the desert where temps are often over 90....20-50 in most normal US climes will cause slippage.....I ran it in my Harley, but it wasnt a wet clutch....
Try changing the oil to a Castrol GTX 10-40....see what happens....no need to change the filter if ya just did it...3 qts....

The basket issue seems to come into play after 8k or more...Im guessin because passages clog.....drilling allows all the crud to pass...



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post #9 of 20 (permalink) Old 08-14-2014, 02:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Freeswilly View Post
Just got done change out the clutch plates. The spacer plates I got were the wrong ones. The original ones only have maybe 22,000 miles on them and seem in good shape. Should I still change them?

Second. The clutch lever is very hard to pull on now. I haven't put oil in yet either though. With the oil in will the clutch lever pull easier?

Im also going to change the clutch cable. Any advice on it? Is there a write up on this project? I know it can be a pain adjusting it.

Thanks for any help.
My Thought's:
1. Make sure you didn't over torque the 5 bolts that hold the pressure plate over the clutch discs. If memory servers me right, they should be somewhere around 5-8 foot pounds. You want to be careful here, if you try to go crazy hulk tight, you WILL break stuff.

2. Did you use new springs? Maybe heavy duty springs? This could possibly make it a little harder to pull the lever, though I doubt by a whole lot.

......I'd rather wake up in the middle of nowhere then in any city on earth.

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post #10 of 20 (permalink) Old 08-14-2014, 08:14 AM Thread Starter
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I've thought about the basket drilling but have had no problem there. So that I will hold off on.

I use GTX 10-40. I don't use synthetic in the bike.

I believe the new springs are heavy duty.


Spock
'93 750 Vulcan

DONE
Coastered
Ear Shave
Re-Jet
EMGO Handlebar
MeanStreak Seat
Oversize Tires
Custom Skeleton Mirrors
Maintenance Free Battery
LED Halo Headlamp
LED Brake Light
LED Turn Signals
Hard Saddle Bags
Custom Plate Mount
Highway Pegs
Custom Skull Radiator Cover
All New Lines and Cables
Custom Neon Green Plug Wires
Iridium Spark Plugs
Kevlar Clutch Plates

PLANNED
Spline Lube
R/R Relocate
Fork Tubes Rebuild
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