Clutch cable adjustment! - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old 06-11-2014, 02:15 PM Thread Starter
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Clutch cable adjustment!

Is there a video or very detailed step by step pictures on how to adjust the clutch cable. I can't figure it out. Been messing with it off an on for about a month! PLEASE HELP! Thanks!
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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old 06-11-2014, 07:46 PM
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There are two adjusters that you can use to adjust the tension of the clutch cable. The easiest is the barrel adjuster at the clutch lever. There is another adjuster located where the cable makes it's run down along the left frame tube in front of the motor.

If the clutch is not disengaging when you squeeze the lever then you will need to add tension to the cable so that it will. You add tension by turning the barrel adjuster at the clutch lever counter clockwise (out) until you have only about an 1/8" of play in the lever when fully released. If you don't have enough adjustment there then you will need to use the adjuster along the frame. This adjuster works by loosening the locknut and turning the adjuster in the proper direction to take up any unwanted slack in the cable until you achieve the 1/8" of play at the clutch lever as mentioned above.

Only tighten the cable enough to achieve the 1/8" of play at the clutch lever. The play in the lever is to account for turning the bars full left or right as this will put additional tension on the cable. If the clutch cable is too tight when you turn the bars full left or right it can actually cause the clutch to disengage.

If you are planning on doing your own work on your bike I would recommend getting a Clymer manual which will help you greatly with just about anything you would need to work on.
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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old 06-12-2014, 02:59 AM
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There's a PDF of the factory service manual available free for download. 112 MB. Has exploded views, procedures, torque specs, and part numbers for everything on the bike.

http://www.tocmanufacturing.com/File...nd%20Parts.pdf

I think you slack the lever adjuster, set the barrel in the middle of the cable, then set the lever. Be really easy on the barrel adjuster. They're thin and like to corrode and break easily from my experience. Better to use PB blaster and torch it than replace it.

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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old 06-12-2014, 07:52 PM Thread Starter
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How can I tell if the cable is bad?
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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old 06-12-2014, 08:11 PM
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First thing is if you tighten everything up and you pull the clutch lever does the mechanism move down by your left foot? If not, either it's not tight enough or the cable is broken.

According to the Clymer manual here is the procedure (with some of my notes from when I last did it in bold):

1. Locate the cable adjuster in the approximate center of the clutch cable
2. Loosen the adjuster locknut and turn the adjuster in fully to provide maximum play in the clutch cable
3. Turn the clutch release lever (on the engine) in its normal direction of rotation until the clutch just begins to release. The clutch is beginning to release when the lever becomes hard to move. Basically you turn it until it stops. Without some sort of leverage or pliers or something you aren't going to turn it any further by hand. With the clutch lever in this position the gap in the lever should be directly below the rib on the bevel gear case. Depending on how stretched out the cable is, you might have to move the space toward the front of the bike a spline or two or more to get it tight enough.
4. At the clutch lever on the handlebar, loosen the clutch cable locknut just enough to permit the adjust to turn freely. Then, turn the adjuster out so that 5-6 mm clearance is present between the adjuster and locknut
5. At the adjuster in the center of the cable, turn the adjusting nut as required to remove all play in the clutch cable and then tighten the locknut
6. Last, turn the adjuster at the handlebar clutch lever until there is 2-3 mm of freeplay in the lever and then tighten the locknut.

Once you have done that, you may notice that the rear wheel turns when the bike is in gear on the center stand, even with the clutch pulled. It will turn a little...it's ok. Once you sit on it, it won't do that. You also notice if you don't have it adjusted correctly, you can let the clutch all the way out in gear and not engage. These are things I went through before finally getting it right.

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Originally Posted by LibertyPilot View Post
Leave it to me to NOT be fond of something then end up banging it.
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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old 06-13-2014, 08:49 AM
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I think it's important to understand how these cables work. So there is a wire cable inside a sleeve. Both the cable inside and the sleeve are of a fixed length (forget the barrel adjusters at the moment). So the sleeve butts up against the handle grip lever on one end and the clutch level on the other and the inner cables slides freely inside. If the inner cable is way longer than the outer sleeve then pulling the hand lever doesn't take up enough slack to pull the inner cable enough to move the clutch lever.

When you make the outer sleever longer, it takes more inner cable to reach the clutch lever from the hand lever. Remember, the outer sleeve butts up against stuff on either end. You make that outer sleeve longer then that makes what is left outside and on either end of that sleeve shorter. So, to get MORE leverage and thus a longer pull on the inner cable from the hand lever, you have to lengthen the outer sleeve.

If you wanted to have less play in your throttle, same thing, lengthen the OUTER sleeve by making it longer with the barrel adjusters.

Came up with this, does this help?

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Last edited by Goofyfoot2001; 06-13-2014 at 10:00 AM.
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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old 06-13-2014, 09:51 PM Thread Starter
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Ok thanks guys for the replies. I will try it tomorrow! Thanks again!
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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old 06-14-2014, 02:52 PM Thread Starter
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How should the clutch release lever (on the engine) how should that be turned? On the way clockwise or counter clockwise? I removed the cable and moved that lever an I don't recall how it was. Can anyone help? Thanks
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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old 06-14-2014, 03:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tortiz610 View Post
How should the clutch release lever (on the engine) how should that be turned? On the way clockwise or counter clockwise? I removed the cable and moved that lever an I don't recall how it was. Can anyone help? Thanks
When sitting on the bike, looking down from above, my lever is @ 3 O'clock position (clutch lever idle/not squeezed).

hth


'86 VN750 13,700 mi -Stock
-Purchased 2008 w/8800mi
Replaced ALL Cables . Kuryakyn LED Voltmeter
SilverStar Ultra 9003/HB2 H4 Headlamp, Jardine Fwd Controls,
Iridiums DPR7EIX-9 & Wires, Tuxedo Mod, Coil Mod, P/U Sensor Mod, Fork Seals,
Splines Lubed - 11/4/2012 - MF AGM Battery
Additional Flashing LED Brake Light on Trunk
Dampers went out @ 13+K !
After TOC MCCT's..... so amazingly quiet I discovered a rattling heat shield on my stock exhaust !
...have a vulcan good day!
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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old 06-14-2014, 06:05 PM
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If I remember correctly, it would turn clockwise if you were laying on the ground looking at the bottom of the mechanism. So when you pull the clutch lever at the handlebar in, the lever at the engine moves toward the front of the bike. Make sense?

Quote:
Originally Posted by LibertyPilot View Post
Leave it to me to NOT be fond of something then end up banging it.
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