The bike shifts, but no output to wheel - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
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Rear End Woes? Splines Shot? Discuss it here!

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post #1 of 18 (permalink) Old 05-09-2014, 03:52 PM Thread Starter
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The bike shifts, but no output to wheel

Hey everyone, was riding about a week ago, 5th gear, 55mph, very loud grinding noise, pulled the clutch in, shifted down to 4th then back to 5th, released the clutch, grinding again then silence and now power to the wheel. Pulled over, got the bike towed back home, left for a business trip.

I'm back and was doing some research, I can start the bike up, I can clearly shift in to each gear no issue, but no output to wheel. Figured the final drive was shot (it's the one thing on the bike I was afraid of, other than the engine). Followed the Spline Lube procedure to pull the rear wheel off (came off without an issue) then pulled the final drive/gear assm off. For kicks I decided to turn the bike on and see if the shaft turned. Fired the bike, put it in first, removed the clutch and it turned! Turned at a constant speed, accelerating does nothing. Shifted in to 2nd, 3rd, 4th, 5th, all turns at the same speed. Reattached the final drive/gear assembly, the teeth on the inside which mest with the wheel turn, again at the same speed regardless of the RPM.

So, I'm fairly certain it's not the final drive, but now fear it's either in the transmission or possibly the clutch? Has anyone experience this before or have any idea where/what I should try next?
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post #2 of 18 (permalink) Old 05-09-2014, 05:07 PM
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pull the clutch cover off the other side and check your clutch spring bolts.

Then again, I'm still not convinced the final drive is good. What did the splines look like? How worn were they? Did you try to hold the inner gear and use a pair of pliers to turn it. The most likely culprit is the inner splines on the driveshaft. Was it greased or dry. take some pictures. Let us look at the splines




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post #3 of 18 (permalink) Old 05-09-2014, 05:11 PM Thread Starter
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Splines were dry and a lot of rust dust came off the bike. I came to own the bike at 22k miles, I've put about 3k on it. Had a mechanic "look over every inch" when I bought it but have found his work since then to be subpar. Which is why I jumped to finaldrive when I read the symptoms. I'll head down to the garage and take a few photos in a minute, the splines seemed good unless it's stripped inside the shaft on the coupling
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post #4 of 18 (permalink) Old 05-09-2014, 05:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by marcoceppi View Post
Splines were dry and a lot of rust dust came off the bike. I came to own the bike at 22k miles, I've put about 3k on it. Had a mechanic "look over every inch" when I bought it but have found his work since then to be subpar. Which is why I jumped to finaldrive when I read the symptoms. I'll head down to the garage and take a few photos in a minute, the splines seemed good unless it's stripped inside the shaft on the coupling
If they were dry and rusty ,you have found the problem. There is enough friction between the parts to cause the rear wheel to turn without a load on it.




If you see it on my bike I did it
VROC#30324
92 vn750(sold)
Current ride 05 1500 Classic FI
lovin' the new scoot



Quote:
"When all is said and done,usually more is said than done" UNK
Click on one x and drag to the other to read between them.

Psalm 40:1...
XI waited patiently for the Lord; and he turned unto me, and heard my cry. X
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post #5 of 18 (permalink) Old 05-09-2014, 05:49 PM Thread Starter
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This may be because I have a fundamental misunderstanding of how the driveshaft on bikes work, but even when the clutch is pulled in the shaft turns in gear, it's the same speed always regardless of engine output or if the gear is even engaged.

I've taken some photos, upon further inspection it does appear worn (comparing with fergy's guide) I'll be ordering a new one and hoping that's it and go on blissfully ignorant of how this whole drive shaft on a motorcycle works.





Couldn't find my real camera, here's some crappy phone photos.
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post #6 of 18 (permalink) Old 05-09-2014, 05:57 PM
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Looks pretty toasted and chewed up to me.

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post #7 of 18 (permalink) Old 05-09-2014, 06:11 PM
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yea, those are pretty much gone... drive shaft and final drive time..

without something to hold the driveshaft up against the splines at the front end (where u joint is), it will likely pop off or partially disengage if you tried to run it.

when you put the final drive on, did you have the spring that goes inside the coupling (where yours is rusted and stripped) in? if not, see above paragraph.

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post #8 of 18 (permalink) Old 05-09-2014, 06:13 PM
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while your waiting on parts, you can pull the front bevel gear assy (6 or 7 bolts) and pull it off, and pull the drive shaft out to inspect the u joint and the splines at that end (they rarely fail tho)

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post #9 of 18 (permalink) Old 05-09-2014, 06:38 PM
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It is pretty much history. Post in the Sell and trade section on this forum and there is about always someone with the stuff you need for a reasonable price.

Almost all clutches will have enough friction to turn a driveshaft or wheel under no load.Most bikes do this even chain drive ones. Nothing unusual there.




If you see it on my bike I did it
VROC#30324
92 vn750(sold)
Current ride 05 1500 Classic FI
lovin' the new scoot



Quote:
"When all is said and done,usually more is said than done" UNK
Click on one x and drag to the other to read between them.

Psalm 40:1...
XI waited patiently for the Lord; and he turned unto me, and heard my cry. X
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post #10 of 18 (permalink) Old 05-09-2014, 06:48 PM Thread Starter
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I went down to my local dealer, so $1100 is the going price for a new final drive (foolishly thought I could just replace the spline). I'll call up a few local motorcycle yards first then post in the sell/trade section. Thanks for the help everyone!
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