Clutch problem part 2 - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
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Old 05-03-2014, 11:46 AM Thread Starter
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Clutch problem part 2

I've adjusted the clutch every way possible. I've set it on all the splines I could, adjusted the middle adjuster through the whole range on each spline setting, and screwed with the lever adjuster.

The problem remains now, when stopped in first gear, the bike will be engaged somewhat. It's engaged enough to prevent me from shifting to neutral... But only at idle. So:

Stopped, idling, clutch in, first gear - bike wants to roll with my 180lb on it, can't shift to neutral.

Stopped, revved past 2000rpm, clutch in, first gear, bike doesn't move at all, and I can shift freely into neutral.

I hope that's enough info to get someone to pinpoint some problem(s)...

If anyone is available to talk on the phone I'll pm you my number. I really want to fix this quickly

Edit - it's worth noting that I turned the bracket so it was in the clockwise-most position (gap of bracket as far left of rib as possible), and the cable adjusted Way out so when I pull the clutch, it pulls it much further than it should. Problem still persists.

Last edited by crowley1027; 05-03-2014 at 11:50 AM.
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Old 05-03-2014, 12:39 PM
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Quote:
I turned the bracket so it was in the clockwise-most position (gap of bracket as far left of rib as possible)
Cable may be stretched too far to adjust. But recheck the manual, it's the shaft that you need to turn before putting the clutch lever on the splines with the gap on the mark. Not sure if this is possible, but by going off the script like that, the clutch mechanism may be going over-center and starting to engage when it should be releasing.

At 2000rpm, the clutch may be breaking free enough that it allows you to shift and it doesn't pull.

I know mine is real sensitive to adjustment at the hand lever, just a little one way or the other and it's either pulling at a stop or slipping when I ride. I'd have to hobble out and look, but I think I have quite a few threads showing at the top cable adjuster.

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Old 05-03-2014, 12:48 PM
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the center adjustment point on the cable acts more like a 'coarse' adjustment. get it in the ball park with that, then tune it at the lever.. thats been how mine is.

I agree with spock on the possibility of the clutch going 'over center', but I think you have have warped plates in the clutch itself.. that will cause all sorts of drag on the clutch.

just remember, you only create a very small gap in the clutch plates when you pull the lever.. maybe as small as a couple hundredths of an inch. it dont take a lot of warp in a plate to cause drag. also, glazing or other foreign material on the steel plates can cause the same.

my clutch, when cold, is a dream.. very little drag, other than what the oil in the clutch is causing. However, as it warms up, it becomes a total biatch to shift, up or down, (especially in the lower gears). If I ride until totally warmed up (like 30 miles, fully warm engine, oil, water), its still dragging, but its better. What I am figuring happens on mine, is that I have a couple plates with warping, or debris on them, and they are expanding at different rate in that area as the rest are, causing my problems.

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Old 05-03-2014, 02:43 PM
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How many miles on your clutch cable? If you go by the manual needs to be changed at 20K. I agree with Spock, could be stretched. Also I would start by taking the lever off the spline turn the shaft until it stops in the direction it would turn when pulling in the clutch. Put the lever back on with the gap of the lever lined up to the raised ridge of the bevel gear case. I think the gap at the clutch hand lever should be 2mm. If all that is correct you should be good as far as adjustment goes. Check out the versus section of the forum.

Last edited by ifixf18s; 05-03-2014 at 02:47 PM. Reason: Further info
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Old 05-03-2014, 03:19 PM Thread Starter
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When warmed up the issue resolved itself. However I refuse to believe that liquid friction would cause such a powerful energy transfer to the wheel. I couldn't stop the rear wheel in first with the clutch pulled in, on center stand, with my hand OR foot
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Old 05-03-2014, 03:23 PM
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How does it behave on the ground?

If it's pulling too hard with the lever pulled, turn the adjuster out at the grip slightly until it eases up.

I think my tire will spin in the air, in neutral, but stops with the brake.

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Old 05-03-2014, 03:26 PM
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mine will spin with tire in air, in gear with clutch pulled.. but does stop fairly easy with brake.

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Old 05-03-2014, 04:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ifixf18s View Post
How many miles on your clutch cable? If you go by the manual needs to be changed at 20K. I agree with Spock, could be stretched. Also I would start by taking the lever off the spline turn the shaft until it stops in the direction it would turn when pulling in the clutch. Put the lever back on with the gap of the lever lined up to the raised ridge of the bevel gear case. I think the gap at the clutch hand lever should be 2mm. If all that is correct you should be good as far as adjustment goes. Check out the versus section of the forum.
Do it just like that. Maybe even have the slot a spline or two toward the front from the ridge to make sure you are getting it disengaged enough.

Quote:
Originally Posted by crowley1027 View Post
When warmed up the issue resolved itself. However I refuse to believe that liquid friction would cause such a powerful energy transfer to the wheel. I couldn't stop the rear wheel in first with the clutch pulled in, on center stand, with my hand OR foot
That's how mine was too. Trying to stop the tire turning with your foot it seemed like it was turning too hard/fast. But on the ground with me on it...it was fine.

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Originally Posted by LibertyPilot View Post
Leave it to me to NOT be fond of something then end up banging it.
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Old 05-04-2014, 09:01 AM Thread Starter
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On the ground cold, it would actually pull me slowly on the bike. Clutch fully in. Rpm difference between neutral and first is 300 or so.

Noticed last night even when the bike was off, in first, moving it.... It had drag with the clutch in. Nothing in neutral. The drag felt like a lightly applied brake.
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Old 05-04-2014, 09:02 AM Thread Starter
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Can someone explain the reasoning for the 2mm slack we the lever?
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