Circlip removal plan B - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
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post #1 of 40 (permalink) Old 03-26-2014, 12:01 PM Thread Starter
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Circlip removal plan B

Since Monday I have spent 2-4 hours per day around 10 hour total, and over $100 buying 5 circlip pliers each one a little narrower than the last. Not to mention driving to Joplin and Springfield a few times. So, now I'm to plan B. According to the Clymer manual the drive shaft can be removed by dropping the swing arm or by removing the "front bevel gear unit as described in chapter 4". I'm thinking with the shaft removed I might be able to lube the splines from the rear or take it somewhere to have the clip removed. Which might be easier swing arm or gear case? also open for other suggestions. 10 hours, $100, and driving 150 miles seems excessive for maintainence .
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post #2 of 40 (permalink) Old 03-26-2014, 12:04 PM
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removing front bevel gear case is simple.. 7 bolts, not torqued to where you need to be king kong to get em.

only slightly tricky part is reinstalling. there is a spring and damper cam that can fall out during assy. not tough tho. also, aligning the drive shaft with the output of the gear assy can be tricky, but not too bad either
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post #3 of 40 (permalink) Old 03-26-2014, 12:17 PM
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To remove those circlips I actually made a tool. It looks like a pair of chopsticks but it works great. Basically I used a bolt, two long narrow punches, and a pair of vice grips. You put the bolt between the two punches after the ends are in the circlip and squeeze with the vice grips to hold the ring. Bolt acts likea fulcrum and the vice grips lock so you don't have to keep squeezing.

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post #4 of 40 (permalink) Old 03-26-2014, 12:26 PM Thread Starter
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Angell I was thinking something like that. But this past hour I've went through the attitudes... from screw this I'll lube what I can see and call it good to there has got to be a easier way. Since the rear coupling splines were lightly lubed when I only did from there back last time. But the front of the shaft is bone dry. So, I need to do it right
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post #5 of 40 (permalink) Old 03-26-2014, 01:18 PM
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Its totally worth it to do it right the first time dude.

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post #6 of 40 (permalink) Old 03-26-2014, 01:40 PM Thread Starter
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Sure, if the clip can be removed.
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post #7 of 40 (permalink) Old 03-26-2014, 09:29 PM
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not fer nuthin, but 10 yrs ago, there were some good bars and eats in Joplin (Springfield too)....least it aint a 100% wasted trip, eh ?...think there was a go-go bar right off the interstate in Springfield...been awhile...

Just wonderin...can ya tap the circlip any way so it turns in its groove some ?....thats how I always got my PITA ones....Id spin em, spray em, spin em, spray em....then boop !



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post #8 of 40 (permalink) Old 03-26-2014, 10:03 PM
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Heck, I'd send you the one I used if you send it back. Pretty sure I know where it is. lol

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post #9 of 40 (permalink) Old 03-27-2014, 02:10 AM Thread Starter
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Will spend tomorrow trying to get this done, wasted my weekend off. If I don't get it I'll lube what I can see and put it back together. Will be up on the market soon. In my 44 years of riding I have never seen a bike with so many inherent design flaws. 20 hours to do routine maintenance, and not close to done yet. unbelievable, not to mention the stator problem, speedo error, rear shock weakness, shift fork weakness. what else not known
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post #10 of 40 (permalink) Old 03-27-2014, 04:16 PM
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Ya, but think....without all of those problems, you'd have never come here maybe and met all the loons, lol....

I think in them days, Kawi engineers were in a hurry to compete with the Sportster market...and ya, they screwed up quite a bit....but hell, honestly, I have as much fun fixin as I do ridin....



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