Clutch slips bad in 5th gear - Page 6 - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
Transmission / Rear End
\ Chattering Clutch? Transmission Trouble?
Rear End Woes? Splines Shot? Discuss it here!

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post #51 of 57 (permalink) Old 05-06-2020, 08:17 AM
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Originally Posted by michiganteddybear View Post
make sure when you adjust the lever at the engine that the shaft it attaches to is turned (by hand) clockwise (I think) (viewed from bottom). if you dont take the free play out of that rack/pinion assembly you will never get the cable adjusted right. the procedure is listed in the service manual
I think this is where I am going wrong. I need to spin the little nubbins all of the clockwise (not counter clockwise?), and THEN put the arm on, lined up with the line on case. That would explain why there's more slack than I can handle! And probably why I had the arm adjusted so far (3/8" at least) past the mark on the case, towards the front of the bike. The KZ500 cables are much shorter, so if anything, it would have less slack naturally.

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post #52 of 57 (permalink) Old 05-06-2020, 12:10 PM
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I think this is where I am going wrong. I need to spin the little nubbins all of the clockwise (not counter clockwise?), and THEN put the arm on, lined up with the line on case. That would explain why there's more slack than I can handle! And probably why I had the arm adjusted so far (3/8" at least) past the mark on the case, towards the front of the bike. The KZ500 cables are much shorter, so if anything, it would have less slack naturally.
MSattler - It is counterclockwise as you sit beside bike working on it(overhead view). I did mine last week, turn until tight clockwise towards front of bike, install arm so it aligns with mark on side case. Easy stuff. 10mm socket does it. Then I adjusted knob at handlebar way in compared to before the alignment.
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post #53 of 57 (permalink) Old 05-06-2020, 12:22 PM
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I think this is where I am going wrong. I need to spin the little nubbins all of the clockwise (not counter clockwise?), and THEN put the arm on, lined up with the line on case. That would explain why there's more slack than I can handle! And probably why I had the arm adjusted so far (3/8" at least) past the mark on the case, towards the front of the bike. The KZ500 cables are much shorter, so if anything, it would have less slack naturally.
MSattler - It is counterclockwise as you sit beside bike working on it(overhead view). I did mine last week, turn until tight clockwise towards front of bike, install arm so it aligns with mark on side case. Easy stuff. 10mm socket does it. Then I adjusted knob at handlebar way in compared to before the alignment. [IMG class=inlineimg]/forum/images/smilies/smiley_thumbs_up.gif[/IMG]

As per some of the smart folks on this site, the mid span is the coarse adjustment and the one at the lever is the fine adjustment. Meaning most of the slack should be taken up span and the lever is for more fine tuning it
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post #54 of 57 (permalink) Old 05-06-2020, 12:44 PM
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As per some of the smart folks on this site, the mid span is the coarse adjustment and the one at the lever is the fine adjustment. Meaning most of the slack should be taken up span and the lever is for more fine tuning it
Yes, some very smart people here. I also think it's smart that if you adjust the clutch arm, and previous owner had fine tuning knob almost all the way out, to adjust it in more, leaving more room for future adjustment. It's much better now, and I can now adjust from both points, handlebar(fine) or cable(coarse). Smart.

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post #55 of 57 (permalink) Old 05-07-2020, 10:21 AM
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I think I have to reroute my cables, as there seems to be more slack than the course can take up. So course adjuster closer together increases the slack, right? When I had the fine adjuster screwed almost all of the way out, and the course adjuster loosened all of the way, that was when the cable seemed to be the tightest


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Ear Shave, K&N Filters, Mean Streak Seat, AGM battery, Blue Wire Mod, Pick-up Coil Mod, Timing Advance Mod, NGK Iridium Plugs and Wire, LEDs, Bed Liner Paint Job, Over-sized Tires, New Brakes, New Fork Seals, Progressive Springs, Kick Stand Mod, Highway Pegs, 40/140 No Shims, Vance & Hines Exhaust, New Grips, Extra Wide Emgo Handle Bars
John 8:44, REV 2:9, REV 3:9 - If you were kicked out of 109 bars, would you think the problem was you, or the 109 bars?
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post #56 of 57 (permalink) Old 05-07-2020, 10:48 AM
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Think of it this way …. If you shorten the length of the cable housing you lengthen the exposed inside cable (looser,more slack). If you lengthen the cable housing you in turn shorten the exposed inside cable (tighter, less slack)

Because it is all about how much inner cable is sticking out.

So yep I think your on right track.

Mid adjust closed up close together = more slack, more cable sticking out.
Same thing at the lever .

So basically it does not matter how long the total cable is, because your only concern is the part that is exposed.
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Last edited by Scooter 007; 05-07-2020 at 11:35 AM.
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post #57 of 57 (permalink) Old 05-07-2020, 11:22 AM
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[QUOTE=MSattler;1286399. The KZ500 cables are much shorter, so if anything, it would have less slack naturally.[/QUOTE]

Just a thought …. Is it possible your KZ500 cables are designed to have more or less cable exposed (sticking out) for a different clutch arm or lever configuration, so then you would be fighting it one way or the other?

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Last edited by Scooter 007; 05-07-2020 at 12:04 PM.
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