Clutch slips bad in 5th gear - Page 3 - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
Transmission / Rear End
\ Chattering Clutch? Transmission Trouble?
Rear End Woes? Splines Shot? Discuss it here!

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post #21 of 57 (permalink) Old 05-04-2020, 11:06 AM
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Originally Posted by MSattler View Post
Thanks guys, I will have to try this, as this is a recent thing. I have not adjusted the clutch cable since I had to redo the pawl spring (for the umpteenth time), so I will try that first. As Teddy said, I don't think it would be the splines, as I have just taken that apart and lubed everything. I've never replaced a clutch, is there anything else I should look at while I am in there?
I missed the clutch part of your Pm (if I'm not mixed up this morning).

Agreed, clutch.

Before you open the clutch case, make sure you have the correct oil. Know what type of oil is in there. The wrong oil slips the clutch every time.

With the right oil in it and still slipping after some warmups, check the "clutch arm" at the bevel gear, make sure the gap aligns with the mark on the case as close as possible.

Next, check the fine cable adjustment at the hand lever. Free play should be about the width of a nickel - 5 cents - between the lever and the perch (see manual).

Make fine adjustments slowly, test, retest. It's a fine line between slipping and harsh shifting into 1st gear. If the fine adjustment seems wrong, thread the fine adjustment all the way in, then take up some slack at the coarse adjustment at the midpoint of the cable run. Then go back to the fine adjustment.

Mine slipped because of the oil, some Valvoline "energy saving" crap. No bueno in fun machines,. Rotella T 15W40 conventional has been in my bike since, most all oils suggested in the forum are good., syntheteic, etc. There's oil code on the bottle, what is it guys? Im birdbrained.

I did the fine adjustment before the oil, so I had to go back and adjust. A few blocks and three stops, she was fine after a good warmup with the right oil. If it slipped I adjusted the cable looser/more play, if it gnashed into 1st gear or pulled at a stop, I made the cable pull tighter/farther. 1/4 turn, then cut down to 1/8 turns or even 1/16 turn, a fine adjustment.

Do the adjusting warm, fully warm. But don't burn the clutch to warm it up.
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post #22 of 57 (permalink) Old 05-04-2020, 11:15 AM
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Yeah, that was in the PM this morning. I will have to check what type of oil it was, but it was the oil that I posted that I got for $1 a qt. It is Castrol synthetic. To share with everyone else what I sent in the pm to you... When shifting from 1st to 2nd, it sometimes gets stuck in neutral (embarrassing and potentially unsafe). There seems to be some performance loss throughout all gears as well. Regarding the free play, I adjust all of my freeplay out. There is tension the whole way through the lever travel.

'08 Road King Classic
'86 VN750:
Ear Shave, K&N Filters, Mean Streak Seat, AGM battery, Blue Wire Mod, Pick-up Coil Mod, Timing Advance Mod, NGK Iridium Plugs and Wire, LEDs, Bed Liner Paint Job, Over-sized Tires, New Brakes, New Fork Seals, Progressive Springs, Kick Stand Mod, Highway Pegs, 40/140 No Shims, Vance & Hines Exhaust, New Grips, Extra Wide Emgo Handle Bars
John 8:44, REV 2:9, REV 3:9 - If you were kicked out of 109 bars, would you think the problem was you, or the 109 bars?
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post #23 of 57 (permalink) Old 05-04-2020, 11:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MSattler View Post
. When shifting from 1st to 2nd, it sometimes gets stuck in neutral (embarrassing and potentially unsafe). There seems to be some performance loss throughout all gears as well.

Regarding the free play, I adjust all of my freeplay out. There is tension the whole way through the lever travel.
That's 90% why the clutch slips. The neutral could be from the free play too, or it could have sludge in the neutral finder, or gas in the oil.

Hopefully, it's not a shift rod/clip problem, never be rough on the shifter. Dirt bikes and older streeters can take it, VN cannot, will not. Laying it down on the shifter side will kill the shift link rod or the clip inside the case.

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post #24 of 57 (permalink) Old 05-04-2020, 11:33 AM
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I will adjust it for the ride home tonight at the lever. See if that helps


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'08 Road King Classic
'86 VN750:
Ear Shave, K&N Filters, Mean Streak Seat, AGM battery, Blue Wire Mod, Pick-up Coil Mod, Timing Advance Mod, NGK Iridium Plugs and Wire, LEDs, Bed Liner Paint Job, Over-sized Tires, New Brakes, New Fork Seals, Progressive Springs, Kick Stand Mod, Highway Pegs, 40/140 No Shims, Vance & Hines Exhaust, New Grips, Extra Wide Emgo Handle Bars
John 8:44, REV 2:9, REV 3:9 - If you were kicked out of 109 bars, would you think the problem was you, or the 109 bars?
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post #25 of 57 (permalink) Old 05-04-2020, 12:04 PM
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I was looking through some old threads this morning, thought this might be helpful or at least worth a second look.


Edited …. Link posted two posts down
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post #26 of 57 (permalink) Old 05-04-2020, 12:11 PM
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Can you post a link to that page? The photo is too small to read

'08 Road King Classic
'86 VN750:
Ear Shave, K&N Filters, Mean Streak Seat, AGM battery, Blue Wire Mod, Pick-up Coil Mod, Timing Advance Mod, NGK Iridium Plugs and Wire, LEDs, Bed Liner Paint Job, Over-sized Tires, New Brakes, New Fork Seals, Progressive Springs, Kick Stand Mod, Highway Pegs, 40/140 No Shims, Vance & Hines Exhaust, New Grips, Extra Wide Emgo Handle Bars
John 8:44, REV 2:9, REV 3:9 - If you were kicked out of 109 bars, would you think the problem was you, or the 109 bars?
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post #27 of 57 (permalink) Old 05-04-2020, 12:14 PM
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post #28 of 57 (permalink) Old 05-04-2020, 01:09 PM
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Just finished adjusting everything. Torque is restored!
Make sure this this is aligned at the bottom or no amount of adjusting at the mid span or lever will work. I loosened the cable all the way at both adjusters, pulled this off and reset it a little to left, lined up the rib by adjusting the mid span, than took the slack out at the lever. Recheck in a few months.
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post #29 of 57 (permalink) Old 05-04-2020, 02:22 PM
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as far as the cable adjustment goes, I would inspect it every oil change.

if the clutch lever on the engine is moving, you have a problem with the splines on the lever or the shaft, it shouldnt slip at all. the bolt is just to keep it from falling off if it loosens

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post #30 of 57 (permalink) Old 05-04-2020, 03:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by michiganteddybear View Post
as far as the cable adjustment goes, I would inspect it every oil change.

if the clutch lever on the engine is moving, you have a problem with the splines on the lever or the shaft, it shouldnt slip at all. the bolt is just to keep it from falling off if it loosens
I’m assuming you were responding to my post, if not I apologize,
I don’t think my clutch lever on the engine is “slipping” it takes a fair amount of force to get it off once the bolt is removed. I don’t feel any play I’m it with the bolt out either. I think my issue is me just being a knucklehead. The lock nut for the mid span is right behind my crash bar and I don’t think I snugged it too well last time and normal vibration just loosened it up. It’s a learning experience lol. Test ride today felt real good.
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