final drive bolt stuck - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 04-11-2013, 11:01 AM Thread Starter
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final drive bolt stuck

Inspection Plug stuck
this is going to sound stupid but i do not want to damage it is it clockwise or counterclockwise to remove the 27mm bolt i have tried hitting it with some PB blaster but it is on so tight i feel like i am going the wrong way i have never changed this oil just want to make sure i am pulling my breaker bar the right way before i really crank on it
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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 04-11-2013, 11:11 AM
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Counter-clockwise to remove/loosen.

"Righty, tighty ... Lefty, Loosey"
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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 04-11-2013, 11:29 AM
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X2 I change mine every season and for some reason the bolt wouldn't budge this time. I had to use a long breaker bar. Be careful as you can round off the nut easy.

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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 04-13-2013, 08:06 PM
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take a bernzomatic torch and just "slightly" heat the bolt itself, not too much...have a wrench with slight pressure on it as you do it....I had the same problem with mine originally...when you put it back on, put some NevRSeize on it...
Instead of the torch, if youre wary, ride it rough for 40 miles and then try to remove....should heat up enough.



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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 04-17-2013, 01:07 AM
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[QUOTE=Wolfie;277841]...when you put it back on, put some NevRSeize on it...QUOTE]

+1 anti-seize has to be one of the most under-used products out there!! get it at the auto parts store, a small tube is like a buck or two.

i would personally use air power, beg/borrow as needed. i would use a snap on 3/8" drive air impact set at maybe 85 pounds and a six point impact socket. ask all your buddies and neighbors if they have air. avoid cheapo air impact brands though, and avoid twelve point sockets, at all cost. and don't use a 1/2" drive air impact either. if you have a good auto mechanic offer him $10 to loosen it, if nothing else. if you mess the head up jumping up and down on a breaker bar, ten bucks would have seemed real cheap. if you could stop by my chop shop i would fix you up in about 5 seconds. the right tools make all the difference in the world. there's a reason pro's use high dollar tools. when i started out i just had the average crapsman type of stuff. it's amazing how better the good tools work in comparison. i remove stuck bolts every day, it's a very routine thing to have happen. but having a box full of worn out crapsman tools can potentially make a stuck bolt into a disaster. experience speaking

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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-31-2013, 02:57 PM
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sooooo all i could find was a 12 point soccket and guess what - totally rounded off. whats a boy to do??
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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-31-2013, 03:05 PM
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Quote:
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sooooo all i could find was a 12 point soccket and guess what - totally rounded off. whats a boy to do??
Drill it out and buy a new bolt. Buy Here!. Part #'s 92066 and 92055B. About $12 + shipping. Maybe someone here has an extra lying around?

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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-31-2013, 03:11 PM
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If you are talking about the fill plug, it is now ruined. Try visegrips on it, but don't squeeze it to tight. You will need a new plug now, the main thing is not to damage the threads in the final drive housing. It must have been overtightened, mine always comes right out. It is made of super soft aluminum. I always use a box end wrench on it. There is a non metric size that fits it perfectly. I also put one of those blue paper/cloth shop towels like you can get at Walmart in rolls between the wrench and the plug, that makes the wrench fit super tight and protects the plug from being chinked up by the wrench.

I would not drill it out, to much chance of getting drill bit shavings in the final drive gearcase.

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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-31-2013, 03:18 PM
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Quote:
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Drill it out and buy a new bolt. Buy Here!. Part #'s 92066 and 92055B. About $12 + shipping. Maybe someone here has an extra lying around?

This is by far the best forum ive ever been a part of. Thanks
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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-31-2013, 03:48 PM
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Quote:
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If you are talking about the fill plug, it is now ruined. Try visegrips on it, but don't squeeze it to tight. You will need a new plug now, the main thing is not to damage the threads in the final drive housing. It must have been overtightened, mine always comes right out. It is made of super soft aluminum. I always use a box end wrench on it. There is a non metric size that fits it perfectly. I also put one of those blue paper/cloth shop towels like you can get at Walmart in rolls between the wrench and the plug, that makes the wrench fit super tight and protects the plug from being chinked up by the wrench.

I would not drill it out, to much chance of getting drill bit shavings in the final drive gearcase.
If ya ain't got a torch and vice-grips don't work, what else you got? The OP could take the FD off, remove the gear assy and drill out the bolt. But that would be a ton of work to avoid getting a couple metal shavings from entering the gears. I doubt the bits of shaving would enter too deep since they'll stick to the oil. Could prolly wipe them out with cotton swabs.

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