Pop and no drive - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
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post #1 of 19 (permalink) Old 03-20-2013, 05:18 PM Thread Starter
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Pop and no drive

I have a 03 vn 750. I am the 3rd owner. I have had this bike for about a 2 years. I was going to ride it last night. I started the engine and backed out of the garage. I put it in gear and started off. I heard a pop and then it was like no forward drive. I am not sure what the problem is? I did notice that the brake torque arm was unloose from the frame. I tried to move the arm back to where it goes into the frame but it doesn't seem to be long enough to reach the spot. I have a Clymer book but it doesn't say much about this arm. I am not sure if that is the problem or something worse.
Does anyone have had problems like this? Or have an idea about what might be my problem?
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post #2 of 19 (permalink) Old 03-20-2013, 08:20 PM
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The brake arm only comes into play when you use the brake. You'll need to rotate the brake hub to get it to fit back.

I assume you mean the engine seems to run fine, but the bike no longer moves forward in any gear....if so..

Your drive splines are likely gone. (You lube the splines recently?) Sadly this means you might need a new driveshaft.

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post #3 of 19 (permalink) Old 03-20-2013, 09:12 PM Thread Starter
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I think you might be right Knife Maker. The engine was running great. I backed out of the garage and put it in 1st gear and heard a pop. That was it, no forward drive. I coasted maybe 20 yards. I haven't lubed the splines. I took it to a bikeshop once and the mechanic said he thought it would be ok until I need a new rear tire. This bike sat up for a long time before I bought it. I had to clean the gas tank, replace stator and have the carbs worked on. After that it was rideable. It needs new fork seals and now this. This hasn't been a dependable bike. I had a Yamaha 750 special back in the 70's and really liked the bike. This vn 750 look reminds me a little bit of the Yamaha. That is why I bought it.
I appreciate your help.
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post #4 of 19 (permalink) Old 03-20-2013, 09:20 PM
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i have a drive shaft and a final drive for sale if you need it

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post #5 of 19 (permalink) Old 03-20-2013, 09:48 PM
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Just for a quick check, put the bike on the center stand and in first gear with the engine off. Put your ear down by the rear diff and spin the rear wheel. That will give you an insight on the problem if you here clicking/popping going on. Splines will be gone as stated above.

Last edited by Chuck A.; 03-21-2013 at 07:20 AM.
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post #6 of 19 (permalink) Old 03-20-2013, 10:04 PM Thread Starter
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I haven't tried it in 1st gear. I tried it in neutral and could hear the grinding and crunching sound. I had no warning, just a pop and no drive. I was lucky in that I was about 20 feet from my garage. Thanks for the info Chuck A.
You guys and gals are so informative on motorcycles.
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post #7 of 19 (permalink) Old 03-21-2013, 01:57 AM
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Bristol,

Does the rear wheel spin freely with the bike on the center stand and in neutral?

I'm wondering if the pop you heard was the rear Torque arm you mentioned breaking free of the brake drum thus causing the rear wheel to lock up. If the drum rotates too far with this bar disconnected, it can cause the rear brakes to activate holding the wheel in place.

The pop could have also been the brake cam rotating between the brake shoes as the drum rotated.

Regardless, sounds like you may need to pull the rear wheel to inspect both the drive splines and brakes anyways.

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Last edited by Ndr; 03-21-2013 at 02:07 AM.
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post #8 of 19 (permalink) Old 03-21-2013, 12:29 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for your reply NDR. My back wheel didn't lock up. It was just free wheeling and making a grinding noise after the pop. Engine was running great. With the bike on center stand with the bike in neutral it makes a grinding sound ( sound of something loose in the wheel). I put it in gear and it makes the same sound with the wheel moving freely. I am always impressed with you all taking your bikes apart. I am going to attempt to do this job. I can change the oil and spark plugs but haven't tried anything else. I can take apart but putting it back together might be another story. I will probably call on you guys expertise doing this. Thanks for the reply.
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post #9 of 19 (permalink) Old 03-21-2013, 03:58 PM
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Hey Bristol, where are you?
Your screen name made think at first you might be in England, but your use of the language does not include any slang expressions, like "me mates" or "cheers", so I assume you are in the USA.

Here is the link to Fergy's rear spline lube to help you examine the splines.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Kawasaki-Vul...81100753165%26

If you already have a basic hand tool set, you may only need to get a 27mm socket with a long breaker bar to remove the rear axle nut, and a 12" adjustable wrench to grip the axle bolt head and jam the other end against the floor.

Might also need a set of narrow circlip pliers as pictured in post #2 of fergy's thread.

Why you should learn to do your own wrenching:
http://lifeisaroad.com/wrenching.html

GO FOR IT. With help from the members here you can do it.

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post #10 of 19 (permalink) Old 03-21-2013, 09:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bristol View Post
........I am going to attempt to do this job. I can change the oil and spark plugs but haven't tried anything else. I can take apart but putting it back together might be another story....
Go for it. My first diff change I had a bike mechanic do it. He burnt me at a charge of $175 bucks! Said it took 3 hours. The second diff I did myself in under 30 minutes.

Just a quicky here that I did: I took the bottom shock nuts loose, put the bike on the center stand that was resting on a 4x4 piece of wood, Tied the bike to my work brench with a lengthy piece of rope so it couldn't more forward and fall off the stand, lifted the rear tire with one hand and slipped the shocks off their post letting the tire to the ground, took the brake rod and control arm loose, removed the axle nut, took the 4 shaft arm/diff bolts loose, pulled the axle bolt out, and rolled the tire with the diff and brake drum out to me. Didn't have to remove the exhaust to get the axle doing it this way. Diff falls out into your hand. The shaft coupling needs replacing also. The keeper clip is easily removed if you have the right pliers. If not, make sure kids arent around. Puts back togather in the above reversed.

Last edited by Chuck A.; 03-21-2013 at 09:18 PM.
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