Clutch sticky/grabby - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-02-2013, 08:51 PM Thread Starter
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Clutch sticky/grabby

Ok, got a much needed oil change comeing, and am experiencing some morning grab in the clutch. Also, sometimes (not all the time, or even able to pin down a consistant way to repeat), the clutch will grab from full release to full engage in like 1/8 inch of lever travel. Lever has proper (maybe even a little too much) free play, and the adjustment down on the engine/trans is correct (gap in lever lines up with line in the casting).

I know the oil change may cure it all, or change nothing.

Wondering if maybe there is some crud built up on the clutch plates that a little seafoam in the oil prior to changing may help?

Or other ideas?
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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-02-2013, 09:25 PM
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That sounds like a logical plan. Don't know how long I'd run it though before changing. But that might just do the trick.
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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-02-2013, 09:44 PM
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I've found that for a few hundred miles after an oil change the factory clutch is a bit smoother, but only for a short while after chancing the oil.
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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-02-2013, 10:25 PM
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Caused by dry clutch plates. We call it the 'Coffee Grinder Syndrome'. There is a cure written up on the forum about drilling holes in the clutch drum and people say it cured their clutch aliments but I've never tried it. What I did find is that synthetic oil made my bike even worse, flat out pitifull. Castrol 10w40 helped it more than any oil I've tried. Also, let the engine warm up for a minute when cold started and work the clutch lever repeatedly to let the oil get into the plates.

Last edited by Chuck A.; 03-02-2013 at 10:27 PM.
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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-03-2013, 12:30 AM
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Caused by dry clutch plates. We call it the 'Coffee Grinder Syndrome'. Thehelped it more than any oil I've tried. Also, let the engine warm up for a minute when cold started and work the clutch lever repeatedly to let the oil get into the plates.
im gonna go ahead and X2 this one right about now

and now i am going to bed goodnight Irene <---- this is what i do in my sleep

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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-03-2013, 08:04 AM Thread Starter
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ok, so for starters I will plan on the seafoam and oil change. the coffee grinder syndrome fix is one I can do myself, but I am not sure when I will be able to get it done (time wise). It has become my main transportation right now, so getting a weekend to do it (although I know it wont take that long), is gonna be tough to schedule.

Seafoam, then oil change and will report back on it.
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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-03-2013, 11:23 AM
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sea foam is petroleum based so you can run it in the oil for a while

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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-03-2013, 04:30 PM
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Originally Posted by michiganteddybear View Post
ok, so for starters I will plan on the seafoam and oil change.......
2 things to keep in mind; #1 is on the seafoam site they tell you to put 1/3 of a can in the oil for up to 200 miles before an oil change. Persuming that 4 to 5 quarts. Don't say the oil weight such as 5w20 which is thin oil but most all engines today use thin oil, tight tolerances. We use a 10w40 for larger bearing gaps so don't thin it to much with to much thin liqiud products. Staves the bearing under a load and heat. Rod mains struggle enough with out help. #2 Seafoam is the nearest thing to a mothers spit with it comes to clean up something. Strong stuff. Your engine gaskets and seals come have a potentional leak that is blocked by oil deposits. Seafoam will remove it and then the leak will start to show up, specially on higher milage/aged engines. SeaFoam don't cause a leak, just removes the natural plug.

Last edited by Chuck A.; 03-03-2013 at 04:33 PM.
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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-03-2013, 04:31 PM Thread Starter
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No worries with me and seafoam, we are old friends..
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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-25-2013, 06:56 PM Thread Starter
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update:

Ok, oil change is done (2 weeks ago in fact).

coffee grinder still there, but I havent drilled the basket yet. that will have to wait for a long weekend.

Have determined another issue exists, and may be related. either hot or cold, the clutch actually has a fair amount of drag when lever is pulled. I find there is considerably more friction when trying to roll the bike with it in 1st, and clutch pulled, as opposed to rolling it with trans in neutral. You can actually feel when the clutch gives up its grab when trying to push it. its not impossible to move, just fair amount harder.

I am also experiencing some difficulty shifting when warm (like clutch is not fully disengaging). Cold shifts are smooth and easy. this is shifting either direction. Oil is between the lines on the sight glass when on center stand, and is Rotella 15w-40.

Am I looking at a warped clutch plates? or is this still associated with coffee grinder syndrome?

Just want to know if I should get clutch parts before pulling the basket to drill it and change them at same time.
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