Gear Changer Disconnected - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-16-2012, 05:13 PM Thread Starter
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Gear Changer Disconnected

I was having electrical problems where my bike would start fine but die near the end of my commute. Each time I would jump start it by shifting into second, pushing it down a hill and popping the clutch. Most of the times everything went well, but the last time I did this I had a lot of trouble shifting into second. I pushed and pulled the gear changer hard and finally forced it to shift. After fixing my issue (it turned out to be a bad battery, which was a Yausa AGM, less than a year old), I rode my bike without issue for a week. Then on one commute, going at slow speed through congested roads, the gear changer just went limp. It's still connected firmly to the rod that goes into the crankcase, but it now hangs in the lower position. There's no resistance when I move it up. There is an upper position where it won't rotate further so it does feel like internally, the rod is connected to something else. Looking at the parts diagram, I am thinking the tie-rod (part 39110) came loose. I'm planning to open up the crank case to take a peek, but I can't find any instructions on getting to that part. Can anyone point me in the right direction?
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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-16-2012, 06:22 PM
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Click on my name and look for my post on tear down of the twin. If the shift rod is broken you will need to pull the engine, remove the heads and split the cases open to get to it. Sorry, no easy way to fix it. Cost me about $250 in gaskets and parts to fix it myself.
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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-16-2012, 10:24 PM
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Welcome to the Vulcan madness phonster.

A couple of years ago there was a guy and his father on this board who changed out the broken tie rod without spliting the cases. I can't find the link to the thread right now, but IIRC they worked through the clutch opening and the stator opening, or maybe behind the cover with the oil level sight glass in it. They used long handled pliers and wrenches.
I would have said it was not possible to do.
He said it was a pain in the @$$ but they got the job done.

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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-16-2012, 10:58 PM
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Originally Posted by OlHossCanada View Post
Welcome to the Vulcan madness phonster.

A couple of years ago there was a guy and his father on this board who changed out the broken tie rod without spliting the cases. I can't find the link to the thread right now, but IIRC they worked through the clutch opening and the stator opening, or maybe behind the cover with the oil level sight glass in it. They used long handled pliers and wrenches.
I would have said it was not possible to do.
He said it was a pain in the @$$ but they got the job done.
I didn't see any way possible through the small openings that I could have done it without splitting the cases. I'm not saying it's not possible but you would have to be a surgeon to do it. I read that thread several times and still find it hard to believe. Kudos to them if it was possible.

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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-16-2012, 11:09 PM
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just make sure the trans is in neutral when you split the case and it will be fine and make sure it shifts by hand before you put the case back together i didnt do this and had to split the case twice now i have oil leaks from the base gaskets and will have to pull the engine again in the near future

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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-17-2012, 03:59 AM
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With my hands there would be NO way I could replace the shift shaft through the case w/o having to split them.
X2 on the kudos to them for being able to do that. I wonder how hard it was to set the length on the rod after they replaced it.
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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-17-2012, 07:44 AM
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Boy this sounds familiar ... still haven't had time to look into mine. Does Murphy have something out for us?

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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-17-2012, 11:07 AM
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Be sure to check the spring behind the part that the drive shaft connects to. I forget the proper term for it. I think the spring goes on the shifting paw.

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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-17-2012, 05:17 PM
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Be sure to check the spring behind the part that the drive shaft connects to. I forget the proper term for it. I think the spring goes on the shifting paw.
do you mean the bevel gear?
that wouldnt have anything to do with a limp shifter i dont think
i figure its another broken tie rod like what i had

oh and the spring on the shifting paw is behind the cover with the oil sight glass below the bevel gear

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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-17-2012, 05:21 PM
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Book calls it a shift return spring. I believe if it is broken it will cause the shifter to move freely. You can take the cover off and look at it to see if it is broken, but it's a PITA with the engine in the frame.
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