Rear splines dry & reduced in dust - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
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post #1 of 23 (permalink) Old 09-17-2012, 07:11 AM Thread Starter
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Rear splines dry & reduced in dust

Well,

I bought a used 2006 750 vulcan 1 year and a half ago. I did not know about the splines. On friday they died on me on my way back from work. On the weekend I have removed the mufflers, the rear shocks, the front bevel gear the rear wheel and the read bevel gear.

I looked at the splines on the front of the drive shaft: they are OK. Dry but OK. I looked and the rear splines of the drive shaft: they are OK. Dry by OK. The coupler now: the front (towards the drive shaft) they are OK buy dry and looks rusted; the rear (towards the rear wheel) they are eaten, almost nothing is left. Now on the wheel bevel gear, guess what, eaten too. A lot of dust.

Now I am stuck in buying an OEM for the whole rear bevel gear: $1100. I do not know where to buy used. If I knew I would have greased them much sooner, but I did not, aarrrhhhh.

I also have read somewhere some excellent grease based on teflon. I think it is made buy Dupon and its brand name starts with a K. Do not remember.
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post #2 of 23 (permalink) Old 09-17-2012, 09:46 AM
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Go to sell and swap on here. And go to ebay. Get a good used one for a fraction what a new one costs.

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post #3 of 23 (permalink) Old 09-17-2012, 09:47 AM
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Man, that sucks! If it isn't the splines, then it is the stator sucking our money wells dry. I feel this is one area where Kaw could have done differently. I would have been ok having either a chain or belt drive instead of the drive-shaft.

Anyways, good luck!

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post #4 of 23 (permalink) Old 09-17-2012, 10:03 AM
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Bummer. Well there are at least four VN750 final drive shafts for sale on Ebay right now. Even a used one for $75 beats a new one for $1100.

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post #5 of 23 (permalink) Old 09-17-2012, 03:29 PM
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I feel your pain

Quote:
Originally Posted by potimo View Post
Well,
I also have read somewhere some excellent grease based on teflon. I think it is made buy Dupon and its brand name starts with a K. Do not remember.
I feel your pain, really I do. I spent my summer wrestling with this.

If you haven't already be sure to read and fully understand Fergy's fabulous rear spline lube procedure, it is very informative and has pretty much all you need in order to disassemble and reassemble things..it's the sourcing of the parts that you will need some help with if and when you find red dust back there like I did when my bike died in May.

The Honda Moly 60 is what you want for the lube, BTW, but I assume that any brand would work as long as it is 60% molybdenum disulfide. It has a completely different feel than the stuff you get at auto parts stores, those have a moly concentration way lower than the Honda product.

I was able to buy a complete rear wheel from a fellow forum member for $150 so after I swapped out the pumpkin (the rear drive unit, on the left side of the wheel) I still have an almost new tire, decent brake shoes, and a slightly pitted wheel that I can try to refinish to swap out my my other, not nearly as pitted one, when it comes time to do a brake job.

If your driveshaft coupler doesn't have to come off that it s good thing, I spent a good amount of time wrestling with the circlip inside but was finally able to not only get the old worn coupler off (those Klein pliers are worth their weight in gold) but I eventually got a replacement coupler back onto the shaft, too, once I realized I had to lift the driveshaft so the clip wouldn't keep falling out if I couldn't get it attached (once you get in there you will see what I am talking about).

I spent less than $200 for parts but because I had no garage and was at the mercy of daylight, weather, and the pressures of work schedules it took me almost three months to get it going again. If the parts you are looking for aren't available right now just wait, they will be. I got what I needed in less than a week once I started looking.

If you have any questions please let me know, I just finished my ordeal this weekend and it is all still very fresh in my mind, and I couldn't have done it without the help of the other folks in this forum. Good luck with yours!

Matt

Matt
Passaic County, NJ
1994 VN 750
April 2011- 30K miles
TOC MCCT 4/2012
New-to-me extended backrest 5/2012
Tourmaster bags 5/2012
Replaced driveshaft coupler and final drive-- ignored the spline lube recommendation too long and got burned 8/2012
Back on the Road 9/2012
De-POOGSed 6/2013
NGK Iridium Plugs 7/2013
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post #6 of 23 (permalink) Old 09-17-2012, 06:23 PM
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post some pics of your shot splines so others will see how important it is to lube them anytime they take off the rear tire. or if a new to them bike and not changing the tire lube them anyways. the whole job takes less than a couple hours!

1986 vn 750 aka "Huck Farley"
42,000 miles
Rick's stator and rr
Tuxedo stator cover mod
pickup coil mod
dampers replaced
agm m/f battery
Harley sportster exhaust, degoated
Hid conversion
splines lubed
custom "vn750.com" grill cover
NGK Iridium spark plugs


acct to mcct mod https://www.vn750.com/forum/showthread.php?t=17917

rekeying locks, https://www.vn750.com/forum/showthread.php?t=7309

stator replacement walkthrough, https://www.vn750.com/forum/showthread.php?t=11369
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post #7 of 23 (permalink) Old 09-18-2012, 05:59 AM Thread Starter
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A picture says a 1000 words

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Originally Posted by wib714 View Post
post some pics of your shot splines so others will see how important it is to lube them anytime they take off the rear tire. or if a new to them bike and not changing the tire lube them anyways. the whole job takes less than a couple hours!
Thanks for the advice. One picture for the rear bevel gear splines and one picture for the couple.
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post #8 of 23 (permalink) Old 09-18-2012, 11:25 AM
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Matt
Passaic County, NJ
1994 VN 750
April 2011- 30K miles
TOC MCCT 4/2012
New-to-me extended backrest 5/2012
Tourmaster bags 5/2012
Replaced driveshaft coupler and final drive-- ignored the spline lube recommendation too long and got burned 8/2012
Back on the Road 9/2012
De-POOGSed 6/2013
NGK Iridium Plugs 7/2013
New AGM battery 4/2014
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post #9 of 23 (permalink) Old 09-18-2012, 11:39 AM
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The stuff your are looking for by Dupont is called Krytox:

http://www2.dupont.com/Lubricants/en...c=krytox-240ac


Great stuff. EXPENSIVE.....but great.....

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post #10 of 23 (permalink) Old 09-18-2012, 02:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Knifemaker View Post
The stuff your are looking for by Dupont is called Krytox:

http://www2.dupont.com/Lubricants/en...c=krytox-240ac


Great stuff. EXPENSIVE.....but great.....
Do you think this is worth it over Moly 60, or is it just used for the u-joint instead of white-lithium.

I couldn't see using more than Moly 60 on the splines since it's what is used on Honda's larger shaft bikes (ST1100, etc), so if it can handle those, our little bikes should be no problem at all.

1986 Kawasaki Vulcan 750
NGK Iridium Plugs #7803/DPR7EIX-9
Duralast Gold ETX15 AGM Battery
Coastered & Shaved
TOC MCCTs
Metzeler ME880 [110/90-19, 170/80-15]
Balance Dampers Replaced
Tuxedo Mod
Rebuilt Forks w/ Progressive Springs
V&H Cruzers
VN750.com Grill Cover
Meanstreak Seat
Emgo 23-92411 Handlebars
MOSFET FH012AA R/R


1990 Kawasaki Vulcan 750

1998 Honda VFR800 FI

2014 Honda VFR800F

1989 Pontiac Firebird Formula 350
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