Rear wheel/final drive binding after spline lube/replacement - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
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post #1 of 41 (permalink) Old 08-13-2012, 06:50 PM Thread Starter
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Rear wheel/final drive binding after spline lube/replacement

Hey guys,

After much cussing and such I was finally able to get my replacement driveshaft coupling in place (had to order another pair of Klein circlip pliers-- long story) but after reassembling everything this weekend (and finding the spring from inside the coupling had been left out, and disassembling and reassembling everything again) I found that:

a) I had successfully diagnosed and repaired the original problem-- the bike can move under it's own power again!

b) I still can't ride it because something is binding in the back and the wheel will only turn with lots of throttle and will not turn freely at all, forward or backward, with the bike in neutral.

Look at the attached photo, and notice the metal skivings around the hub. I think I know what happened but I'd like fresh eyes to have a look and let me know your thoughts. I removed the large circular snap ring to remove and lube the rear wheel coupler and believed that I got everything seated proper-like but now I'm not sure.

Thoughts? Besides get a better mechanic, I mean. I really want to know how this bike works and can't afford the shop anyway, but it would be nice to ride again before the now falls!

Thanks guys,

Matt
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Matt
Passaic County, NJ
1994 VN 750
April 2011- 30K miles
TOC MCCT 4/2012
New-to-me extended backrest 5/2012
Tourmaster bags 5/2012
Replaced driveshaft coupler and final drive-- ignored the spline lube recommendation too long and got burned 8/2012
Back on the Road 9/2012
De-POOGSed 6/2013
NGK Iridium Plugs 7/2013
New AGM battery 4/2014
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post #2 of 41 (permalink) Old 08-13-2012, 07:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mattman View Post
Hey guys,

After much cussing and such I was finally able to get my replacement driveshaft coupling in place (had to order another pair of Klein circlip pliers-- long story) but after reassembling everything this weekend (and finding the spring from inside the coupling had been left out, and disassembling and reassembling everything again) I found that:

a) I had successfully diagnosed and repaired the original problem-- the bike can move under it's own power again!

b) I still can't ride it because something is binding in the back and the wheel will only turn with lots of throttle and will not turn freely at all, forward or backward, with the bike in neutral.

Look at the attached photo, and notice the metal skivings around the hub. I think I know what happened but I'd like fresh eyes to have a look and let me know your thoughts. I removed the large circular snap ring to remove and lube the rear wheel coupler and believed that I got everything seated proper-like but now I'm not sure.

Thoughts? Besides get a better mechanic, I mean. I really want to know how this bike works and can't afford the shop anyway, but it would be nice to ride again before the now falls!

Thanks guys,

Matt
You don't have any spacers in the wrong places or missing, do you?




If you see it on my bike I did it
VROC#30324
92 vn750(sold)
Current ride 05 1500 Classic FI
lovin' the new scoot



Quote:
"When all is said and done,usually more is said than done" UNK
Click on one x and drag to the other to read between them.

Psalm 40:1...
XI waited patiently for the Lord; and he turned unto me, and heard my cry. X
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post #3 of 41 (permalink) Old 08-13-2012, 07:07 PM
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here is an exploded view
http://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche....%20WHEEL/CHAIN




If you see it on my bike I did it
VROC#30324
92 vn750(sold)
Current ride 05 1500 Classic FI
lovin' the new scoot



Quote:
"When all is said and done,usually more is said than done" UNK
Click on one x and drag to the other to read between them.

Psalm 40:1...
XI waited patiently for the Lord; and he turned unto me, and heard my cry. X
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post #4 of 41 (permalink) Old 08-13-2012, 07:10 PM Thread Starter
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Don't think so...

Thanks for the reply.

I don't think I am missing anything, but it took me so long to do this project (work, weather, no garage, tracking down parts, etc) that I can't be sure. I was very meticulous about all that but it doesn't mean I didn't miss something.

What I should also mention is that this is a replacement final drive mated to my previous wheel, presumably there is no risk of a mismatch between different model years, I was assured this would be a 1:1 swap.

I didn't force anything, it all went together easily once I was finally ready to reassemble it, but before I take it all apart again, most likely not until Saturday at the earliest, I wanted to get as many opinions as possible as to what to look out for.

Thanks!

Matt

Matt
Passaic County, NJ
1994 VN 750
April 2011- 30K miles
TOC MCCT 4/2012
New-to-me extended backrest 5/2012
Tourmaster bags 5/2012
Replaced driveshaft coupler and final drive-- ignored the spline lube recommendation too long and got burned 8/2012
Back on the Road 9/2012
De-POOGSed 6/2013
NGK Iridium Plugs 7/2013
New AGM battery 4/2014
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post #5 of 41 (permalink) Old 08-13-2012, 07:22 PM Thread Starter
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helpful!

Quote:
Originally Posted by denny6006 View Post
Thanks for that. I have the service manual but having it here helps with the discussion.

I didn't remove the bearings or anything, all I did was remove the snap ring and the rear wheel coupler so I could lube it according tot he guidance in the manual and Fergy's spline lube procedure. Now that I have a spare wheel I was planning on rebuilding that one completely over the winter and clean it up nicer than what I have, then when I swap 'em out next year and check the progress on my spline lube I would have the whole back of the bike neat and tidy so I can concentrate on the other parts of the bike that need attention.

Besides the driveshaft coupling replacement, essentially, all I did was remove the axle, remove the entire rear wheel, swap final drives (and remove and lube the wheel coupler) snap 'em back together again, reinsert the axle, and attempt to drive it. I don't recognize the part 92027A, the collar that goes within the bearing, because I didn't take anything like that out so that ought to be there, and besides, the shavings are from the outer circumference...I'm more inclined to think I screwed up with the large snap ring and it is binding things up.

Thanks!

Matt

Matt
Passaic County, NJ
1994 VN 750
April 2011- 30K miles
TOC MCCT 4/2012
New-to-me extended backrest 5/2012
Tourmaster bags 5/2012
Replaced driveshaft coupler and final drive-- ignored the spline lube recommendation too long and got burned 8/2012
Back on the Road 9/2012
De-POOGSed 6/2013
NGK Iridium Plugs 7/2013
New AGM battery 4/2014
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post #6 of 41 (permalink) Old 08-13-2012, 07:31 PM
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looks like you left a spacer out from inside the drum.

02 honda sabre 1100
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post #7 of 41 (permalink) Old 08-13-2012, 07:52 PM
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you think you might have over tightened the rear brake?
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post #8 of 41 (permalink) Old 08-13-2012, 08:06 PM Thread Starter
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any idea which spacer?

Quote:
Originally Posted by niterider View Post
looks like you left a spacer out from inside the drum.
Thanks for the observation, but I don't recall taking anything out that didn't go back in, I put all the parts in a bucket and there is nothing left to put back in, could it have been a piece which is still attached to my old final drive. or do you mean the brake drum side? I didn't touch that side.

Matt
Passaic County, NJ
1994 VN 750
April 2011- 30K miles
TOC MCCT 4/2012
New-to-me extended backrest 5/2012
Tourmaster bags 5/2012
Replaced driveshaft coupler and final drive-- ignored the spline lube recommendation too long and got burned 8/2012
Back on the Road 9/2012
De-POOGSed 6/2013
NGK Iridium Plugs 7/2013
New AGM battery 4/2014
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post #9 of 41 (permalink) Old 08-13-2012, 08:08 PM Thread Starter
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That was my first thought

Quote:
Originally Posted by new rider 9984 View Post
you think you might have over tightened the rear brake?
I thought that might be the case but I ruled it out, I backed the brake tensioner all the way out and there is nothing but free play in the brake pedal...plus the metal shavings are coming from the final drive side of the wheel, not the brake side. I wish it were that simple!

I appreciate your help, though...thanks!

Matt

Matt
Passaic County, NJ
1994 VN 750
April 2011- 30K miles
TOC MCCT 4/2012
New-to-me extended backrest 5/2012
Tourmaster bags 5/2012
Replaced driveshaft coupler and final drive-- ignored the spline lube recommendation too long and got burned 8/2012
Back on the Road 9/2012
De-POOGSed 6/2013
NGK Iridium Plugs 7/2013
New AGM battery 4/2014
Mattman is offline  
post #10 of 41 (permalink) Old 08-13-2012, 08:19 PM
Crap, I WAS in 5th gear.
 
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Part number 92025 is a factory select shim to account for the tolerance stackup of all the components. You need to select a thicker one! The purpose of the shim/shims is to adjust the gear spacing- they are probably preloaded right now and binding- not to mention the obvious interference with the hub. Perhaps you can use the one off the other drive, or you left it out altogether- it happens.
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