rolling bike while holding clutch in - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-01-2012, 05:50 PM Thread Starter
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rolling bike while holding clutch in

Howdy folks,

I have had to bump start my bike a few times lately as I work out the kinks in the electrical. In Neutral I can push the bike without issues, but lately when i drop it into 2nd OR if it stalls and I am trying to move it while it is in first. . . It is really resistant. I squeeze the clutch and try to push it along but it really really drags. I am not a big guy so bump starting her in the first place is a huge effort.

Any ideas?

Obviously I know the bike will not push if the clutch is engaged and it is in gear. This is only when I squeeze the lever and is worlds easier when in neutral.
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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-01-2012, 06:39 PM
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Sounds like your clutch isn't fully disengaging.

It could be as simple as a cable adjustment.

If that's not it, it could be a grooved clutch basket.

How much extra resistance is there? Is it better when the oil is warm?

When it's running, and you shift from neutral to 1st, does it surge ahead a bit?

Street
1985 VN750 Acquired Feb, 2011 - 13,676km
Mods - Ear Shave, Pickup Coil Gap, Drilled Clutch Basket, Shift Tie Rod, Mosfet R/R, MF Battery, De-Goated (H-Pipe), MCCT, Heated Grips, Plexistar 2 Windshield

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2004 KTM SX 125 - 1979 Can-Am Qualifier 250 - 1971 Kawasaki F6

Video Tutorials - Engine Rebuild - Fork Seal Replacement - Grease Swing Arm Bearings - Carb Rebuild - Spline Lube - Refilling Rear Shocks - Grease Steering Bearings
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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-01-2012, 06:48 PM Thread Starter
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No surge when I switch to 1st.

I did not find it that hard to push the other day, yesterday it was much more difficult. Normally I can just squeeze the clutch and push. Yesterday I HAD to put it in neutral simply because it was a lot of work to push it along.

Now I know I accidentally down shifted without the clutch twice real fast the day before that. I am a new rider and I am trying to get the hang of down shifting while on the go rather than just at red lights/stops. Without thinking I tapped the shifter down a gear, but aside from high RPMs it really seemed to be running just dandy.

Even now when I recharged my crappy battery and got it running again it seems to shift fine. Just does not want to glide.
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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-01-2012, 07:57 PM
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This may sound silly, but check your tire pressure. Mine was hard to push even in neutral when I first got it....found out there was only 8lbs in the rear tire, and 12 in the front ! The new fangled tubeless dont show "low" as much as the normal tubed did. I bet yer tire pressure is low, and/or the rear brake may not have enough free play in it and is binding. I made the brake mistake once too (didnt check it after I bought it).
Could be the clutch too, as Roach stated, but check the easy stuff first.



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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-01-2012, 08:45 PM Thread Starter
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Mine is easy as pie to move in Neutral. Only if it is in gear with the lever squeezed it is harder to roll now than it was before. I will check that however. I think i need to change the brake fluid anyway as the bottom third is darker. Also need to refill the from brake fluid.
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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-01-2012, 10:03 PM
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I had that issue untill the bike has been rinning, the cold oil can add resistance to the clutch when off and cold.

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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-01-2012, 10:24 PM
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@ Roach, mine surges a little when I go from N-1st, I seen you had mentioned this so I have to ask, I'm thinking that the clutch needs to be adjusted, or is it something else that I should be looking at? I'm new to the cruiser and I'm coming off a duel sport and have raced quads and don't remember any of those doing that.
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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-01-2012, 11:18 PM
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All suggestions are god ones. Heavy oil, like 20/50 will make it harder to roll the bike while in gear especially when cold. As far as clutch adjustment, your lever when in the released position should have just enough play to slide a nickel between the the lever and the housing of the lever assembly. If there's much more than that your clutch plates may still be in contact even though you've got the lever pulled in. Another thing - is your lever true (not bent, same shape as the brake handle)? even a little bend toward the handlebar from a prev. owner slamming it into something will cause it to lose travel thus not fully activating the clutch when pulled. There's my 45 cents and a mostly used gift card. Good luck.

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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-02-2012, 09:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WeaSeL View Post
Mine is easy as pie to move in Neutral. Only if it is in gear with the lever squeezed it is harder to roll now than it was before. I will check that however. I think i need to change the brake fluid anyway as the bottom third is darker. Also need to refill the from brake fluid.
My guess is that the bottom 1/3 that is dark is the real fluid level. Your brake fluid won't show different colors, it just gets mixed up to one color. Or your site glass is stained on the bottom. Either way I'd pop off the cap and check that brake fluid ASAP.

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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-02-2012, 12:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dirtdemon718 View Post
@ Roach, mine surges a little when I go from N-1st, I seen you had mentioned this so I have to ask, I'm thinking that the clutch needs to be adjusted, or is it something else that I should be looking at? I'm new to the cruiser and I'm coming off a duel sport and have raced quads and don't remember any of those doing that.
It's likely just the resistance between the opened clutch plates and the oil between them. It probably goes away once the engine is warm?

The term "a little" is a somewhat vague I guess.

You have to realize what is going on when you make that shift from N to 1st. You have an engine running that is creating a lot of torque, and with the clutch released and in neutral, the plates are pressed together and the gears in the transmission are all spinning together, just not engaged with the output shaft.

When you pull the clutch, you are making room for the clutch plates to separate from one another. But you are not pulling them apart.

When you shift from N to 1st, the output shaft is instantly connected to the spinning gears and the clutch plates are forced to break loose from one another.

When the oil is cold and thick (more viscous), some of the power from the engine will still be transmitted between the plates, and to the rear tire. But normally the resistance of the bike's tires and rider's feet are enough to overcome this, even when the oil is really cold.

It's working like a fluid coupling, sort of like the torque converter on an automatic transmission vehicle. The car will want to pull ahead, but the brakes can overcome this force easily.

Once the oil warms up a bit, this force diminishes almost entirely.

If it wants to pull ahead with the clutch pulled and no brake, then you'll want to track down the issue.

Street
1985 VN750 Acquired Feb, 2011 - 13,676km
Mods - Ear Shave, Pickup Coil Gap, Drilled Clutch Basket, Shift Tie Rod, Mosfet R/R, MF Battery, De-Goated (H-Pipe), MCCT, Heated Grips, Plexistar 2 Windshield

Dirt
2004 KTM SX 125 - 1979 Can-Am Qualifier 250 - 1971 Kawasaki F6

Video Tutorials - Engine Rebuild - Fork Seal Replacement - Grease Swing Arm Bearings - Carb Rebuild - Spline Lube - Refilling Rear Shocks - Grease Steering Bearings
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