Drive shaft coupler - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-07-2012, 04:41 PM Thread Starter
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Drive shaft coupler

I have done a rear drive shaft lube when I took the coupler off I noticed that the washer that snap ring sits against to lock coupling on drive shaft has flat side and beveled side does the flat side go toward the drive shaft and the beveled side snap ring side? Any help would be appreciated
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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-12-2012, 09:42 PM
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Interesting question. I have never had the coupler off my driveshaft. I always just remove the final drive gearcase, put a lot of grease on the gearcase splines, and pack the coupler with grease, then push it back together, which forces grease out from between the coupler and the final dive splines. I've been doing it this way forever. The only way to get the coupler off would be to remove the drive shaft, which I have not done yet. The Clymer manual does not even mention separating the coupler from the shaft that I can find, though I only took a quick look.

I am a motorcyclist, NOT a biker.


1997 Vulcan 750, purchased about a week ago
2006 Sportster 1200 Low
2013 Royal Enfield Bullet 500, converted to carb
2001 Yamaha XT225, heavily modified
2004 Honda Rebel 250
1979 Vespa P200E
2002 Vulcan 750 parts bike
1994 Yamaha XT225 parts bike
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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-12-2012, 11:06 PM
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The couple comes off with out shaft removal. It takes a long nose snap ring plier. However; I think it only goes one way. That is the only way to put the snap ring back on it. But will not bet on that. I has been a while since I last removed one.

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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-12-2012, 11:21 PM
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Now I remember reading about that. The snap ring is on the inside at the very front. Again the Clymer manual does not mention it. Does the snap ring fit into a groove in the driveshaft (external) or does it fit into a groove inside the coupler? (internal) If it fits into a groove on the shaft, then the flat side most likely goes toward the front.

I am a motorcyclist, NOT a biker.


1997 Vulcan 750, purchased about a week ago
2006 Sportster 1200 Low
2013 Royal Enfield Bullet 500, converted to carb
2001 Yamaha XT225, heavily modified
2004 Honda Rebel 250
1979 Vespa P200E
2002 Vulcan 750 parts bike
1994 Yamaha XT225 parts bike

Last edited by VN750Rider/Jerry; 04-12-2012 at 11:32 PM.
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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-12-2012, 11:26 PM
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The ring clips onto the shaft.

02 honda sabre 1100
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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-13-2012, 09:01 AM
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In the "General Information" section of my Clymer Manual it describes Circlips (aka snap rings) on page 10. They can be either internal or external design and either machined or stamped. Stamped circlips have a sharp edge and a rounded edge. When installing stamped circlips "the sharp edge must face away from the part producing the thrust."

They also add - Compress or expand circlips only enough to install them and make sure they are completely seated in the groove.

- Safety First

Paul

'04 VN750
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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-13-2012, 05:03 PM
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This would be an external stamped clip, and the thrust should be against the front of the coupler, which is why I think the flat side goes forward, against the front inside end of the coupler. A stamped circlip is just like a nut and washer, or a flanged nut. The washer or flange always goes against whatever is being held in place. In this case it is the coupler.

I am a motorcyclist, NOT a biker.


1997 Vulcan 750, purchased about a week ago
2006 Sportster 1200 Low
2013 Royal Enfield Bullet 500, converted to carb
2001 Yamaha XT225, heavily modified
2004 Honda Rebel 250
1979 Vespa P200E
2002 Vulcan 750 parts bike
1994 Yamaha XT225 parts bike
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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-13-2012, 09:45 PM
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When you take the coupler off the driveshaft there is a washer inside the coupler that can be turned sideways and taken out. When in place one side is against the back of the front splines in the coupler and the snap ring goes against the other side holding the coupler in place. I think this is what 2001V750 is asking about. When I did my spines and changed the coupler I didn't notice any difference so hopefully I got it back in the right way. I guess I have a 50/50 chance. I have a spare washer that I looked at and the difference is so small I bet it is OK either way. It's like one side has a very small ring sticking out about half way between the center hole and the outside edge.
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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-18-2018, 03:36 PM
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Apologies dredging up such an old thread, but this is some good-use information, some of the best I've found over a bender post-final-drive-failure.

Anybody out there verify that the coupler #42034-1035 is in fact the part to be removed and replaced? I'm having the hardest time finding that alone for sale, unsurprisingly.

EDIT: Ok, I get it. Finding the part isn't as hard as paying for it.

Last edited by TheModernLemonade; 08-18-2018 at 04:38 PM. Reason: incomplete parts number
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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-19-2018, 12:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheModernLemonade View Post
Apologies dredging up such an old thread, but this is some good-use information, some of the best I've found over a bender post-final-drive-failure.

Anybody out there verify that the coupler #42034-1035 is in fact the part to be removed and replaced? I'm having the hardest time finding that alone for sale, unsurprisingly.

EDIT: Ok, I get it. Finding the part isn't as hard as paying for it.
This is the best deal I see right now, a complete used driveshaft is usually cheaper than just the coupler. Pic of the coupler splines isn't the best clarity. It's a wee bit dry too. Others are priced as high as one new coupler.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/KAWASAKI-VU...gAAOSwRWRbSjmp

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Last edited by Spockster; 08-19-2018 at 12:22 AM.
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