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Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Chandler, Arizona
You should adjust the "clearance" between the clutch lever and perch at the very outside edge of where the two come together. That will be toward the front. Either do the 1/8", or whatever it says in the manual. Main thing is to have some freeplay at all times, no matter what position the bars are in. If it is so tight that there is actually pressure on the clutch rod and springs, the clutch will wear out REAL fast. The Vulcan clutch has a very narrow engagement point, and just a hair beyond that free play is where it will engage and disengage.
I personally like as little free play as possible, because I prefer the clutch to engage at the outer limit of clutch lever travel. But there does have to be some. If you have the stock oem cable, and it is properly routed, the free play will not change while turning the bars.
Consider yourself lucky the Vulcan has a cable clutch. These are far superior to a hydraulic clutch. When I first got my Goldwing, I had to rebuild the master cylinder and replace the slave cylinder, and even after going through 2 qts. of fluid bleeding it, it still did not work right. I finally got a SpeedBleeder, which solved the problem. Older Goldwings had cables, and they worked just fine, as does the cable on the Vulcan. Cables can also be adjusted, and are cheap to replace. Hydraulic is just more complication and expense for nothing gained.
I am a motorcyclist, NOT a biker.
1997 Vulcan 750, purchased about a week ago
2006 Sportster 1200 Low
2013 Royal Enfield Bullet 500, converted to carb
2001 Yamaha XT225, heavily modified
2004 Honda Rebel 250
1979 Vespa P200E
2002 Vulcan 750 parts bike
1994 Yamaha XT225 parts bike