clutch issue? - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
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\ Chattering Clutch? Transmission Trouble?
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post #1 of 7 (permalink) Old 10-01-2011, 09:46 PM Thread Starter
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clutch issue?

does the rear wheel spin, on center stand, in gear, with clutch in? it will move with someone pushing on it, but not "freely"
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post #2 of 7 (permalink) Old 10-01-2011, 10:04 PM
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Yes it can, dependinig on the adjustment of the clutch.
The liquid in the plates can cause enough friction to allow the wheel to spin if off the ground.
When the wheel is on the ground it will not move or push you forward due to the weight and friction of the bike.

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post #3 of 7 (permalink) Old 10-02-2011, 05:00 AM
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Was that your only concern? Does the bike run normally? or do you have other problems?
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post #4 of 7 (permalink) Old 10-02-2011, 07:41 AM
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It will spin in gear with the clutch in on the center stand. Like Ccspinner said.
Even with the clutch within specs on adjustment, it will still spin, especially if the engine and oil isn't fully warmed up.
Mine would still spin even after being warmed up. It might not be normal, but I have a heavier oil in mine.
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post #5 of 7 (permalink) Old 10-02-2011, 11:23 AM Thread Starter
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thank you all.. i had that response already but had done other surfing and some sites said it was not normal...stay away from those i guess.. as far as other issues there is our saga on a thread under the engine section with starter questions...figured this was general and did not want to include in other discussion. still trying to get bike started after the rebuild. hoping just crud in the cylinders that can be sprayed/worked out without an engine pull...
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post #6 of 7 (permalink) Old 10-10-2011, 08:08 PM
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Wet clutches always have some degree of friction, even after they are warmed up, due to the oil. On the VN750, as with many bikes, the clutch might as well not be disengaged when you pull it in after starting the engine in gear. It will be stuck solid. I have used various methods to deal with this, but what I usually do is warm up the engine in neutral, then shut the engine off with the kill switch, pull in the clutch, put it into first, and with the clutch still in, rock it back and forth a time or two to break the clutch loose. I then start it back up IN GEAR, and take off. It stays in gear the rest of the day. I park it in first, and I sit at traffic lights in first, with the clutch pulled in. There are 2 reasons for this, it makes it possible for me to dump the clutch and make a fast getaway if necessary, and it avoids the loud CLUNK you get when shifting into first from neutral at a dead stop. That clunk has got to put quite a shock load on the transmission, especially the gear dogs. It happens because the clutch is still spinning due to fluid friction, one of the gears is moving, and the other isn't. Some people claim leaving it in gear with the clutch pulled in at stop lights will wear out the clutch a lot faster, that has not been my experience, but I would still rather replace several clutches than break the transmission.

I am a motorcyclist, NOT a biker.


1997 Vulcan 750, purchased about a week ago
2006 Sportster 1200 Low
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post #7 of 7 (permalink) Old 10-10-2011, 08:46 PM
If only it had 6th gear..
 
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I agree with you Jerry. I usually put her in neutral out of habit because on a car being in gear with the clutch engaged will definitely wear out your throw out bearing. In a bike's wet clutch however it's very different. Gonna try breaking myself of that neutral habit because i don't like that initial gear clash either. What i don't think is normal though is the part about the clutch not engaging when you start it. None of my bikes have ever done that, even during winter riding. I would run thinner oil in the colder weather for sure, like 10-30 and would find that I'd need to warm it up a good bit before shifting became normal but maybe I've just been lucky and have been spared that experience .

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