Clutch won't disengage after reinstalling the motor - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 04-11-2011, 09:10 PM Thread Starter
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Clutch won't disengage after reinstalling the motor

Hello again! This past week I pulled the motor on my VN750, cleaned and painted it and installed a new stator. If you wanna read it for some reason:

https://www.vn750.com/forum/showthrea...d=1#post167113

Anyways, in the process of pulling and reinstalling, I pulled the exhaust manifolds, valve covers (yea I know not important) and the front bevel case including the clutch pushrod from the block. Obviously the clutch cable linkage come off the motor as well.

I put the motor back in over the weekend and installed the clutch pushrod and front bevel case. Everything appears normal. Tonight I installed the clutch cable and linkage. The clutch won't disengage.

So referring to pg 230 diagram 47 of my Clymer manual, I pulled the "Clutch release mechanism" in an effort to find out what's wrong. I followed the instructions verbatim. Nothing.

Now I realized the gearshift lever has the same spline as the clutch release shaft, so I used gearshift lever to actuate the clutch about 60 degrees (far more than the clutch lever can). With this I found the "Spring point" to release the clutch, tried to rotate the tire, pulled it a little more, tried to rotate the tire etc.

Finally I reached the point where the clutch release shaft slipped off the end of the release rack. I could barely turn the tire by hand at this point. The clutch still had a LOT of grab, but the tire did turn.

I didn't have any part of the clutch disassembled, except the cable linkage and the pushrod. Any idea what's going on???

Last edited by spiral_72; 04-11-2011 at 09:12 PM.
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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 04-11-2011, 09:14 PM Thread Starter
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I can't find a diagram in the manual that shows exactly how the pushrod disengages the clutch. Regardless, I'd rather not pull the clutch cover or clutch to investigate unless necessary.

Thank you all,
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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 04-11-2011, 09:36 PM Thread Starter
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Ummm, was just thinking...... I don't have any oil in the engine yet. That's not the reason for my trouble is it? I know it's a wet clutch, but surely oil wouldn't cause this.
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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 04-11-2011, 09:54 PM
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Oil shouldn't affect it at all, especially since there should still be plenty of oil coating the clutch plates.

Remember having to fiddle with the lever attached to the spline. Just kept removing and reinstalling spline by spline, until I felt like it was right at the release point, then adjusted the cable to get the feel exactly like I wanted.

The diagrams show something on the end of the push rod on the bevel gear side. Don't know if that doohickey could have fallen out? I never saw it, so I assume it pretty much stays in the front bevel gear casing.

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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 04-11-2011, 10:10 PM Thread Starter
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Yea that's the "Release Rack", It looks like a steel plug with gear teeth cut in one side that mates to the shaft. That's what actually pushes the pushrod when you turn the shaft.

All the parts on that end looks fine to me. I can't figure it out!? Man I hope something didn't fall out on the clutch side.
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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 04-12-2011, 11:55 AM
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There's not a problem on the clutch side. If the clutch was working fine before, and you didn't even remove the clutch cover, there's no way that's the problem. The rod just pushes against the clutch, which compresses the springs and relieves the tension on the plates. No small parts.

Run the midline jamnut on your clutch cable all the way up and screw the adjuster up to it.

Turn the spline with your fingers until it stops. Install the lever with the mark lined up with the housing mark. By using the adjustment at the clutch handle and the mid line adjuster you should be able to "feel" when the clutch engages. If you can't get it just right, just go back to nominal on the clutch cable adjustment and then rotate the lever spline by spline, readjusting the cable each time until you get the right feel.

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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 04-12-2011, 11:58 AM Thread Starter
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No takers eh?

Alright, how about this: Maybe my hand tire spin with the clutch pulled in is relative. Anyone ever spun the rear tire with it in gear and the clutch pulled in? How free is the tire?

Spins like it's in neutral?
Slight drag and slows rapidly?
Still a lot of drag and it will only move not spin??

Mine is the last one.
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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 04-12-2011, 12:41 PM
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As I recall, there is a 'cap' over the rack that you unscrew and then remove the rack. With the lever pointing towards the rear of the bike, put the rack in and turn the lever back to it's 'home' position. ( it's been awhile since I did this, so you may have to play with the position of the lever before you place the rack back in)
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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 04-12-2011, 01:09 PM
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It will have some drag on it. You are turning some gears and clutch disks on the tire side of the transmission. The best test that I know of is to put it on the ground and see it works.

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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 04-12-2011, 04:55 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by niterider View Post
It will have some drag on it. You are turning some gears and clutch disks on the tire side of the transmission. The best test that I know of is to put it on the ground and see it works.
Alright, well maybe I'm worried about nothing, but it sure seems a lot of drag. I'll finish putting the bike together and take it off the jack for the driveway test as you say.
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