Shifting Gears - Page 3 - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
Transmission / Rear End
\ Chattering Clutch? Transmission Trouble?
Rear End Woes? Splines Shot? Discuss it here!

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post #21 of 38 (permalink) Old 06-27-2019, 10:22 AM
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I'm not clear on what's happening with the sight glass. In what way does it cloud up? Is it because the glass is completely full and you can't see an air bubble? Or the glass is somehow hazed over? If the glass isn't hazed, and the glass isn't full, you should still see an air bubble even with jet black oil.

This engine does have that air entrainment phenomena where the air whipped into the oil on startup makes the oil look milky after running a couple of minutes, but it goes away after full warmup. Will look like coolant in the oil.

Oil getting black right away points toward sludge buildup. You could try pouring diesel, gas, or kerosene through it with bottom oil drain removed and see what comes out. Or fill it, and then drain, maybe shake the bike around as violently as you can first. Even some soak time wouldn't hurt it, then shake it before draining. Rock it around and slam on the front brake, etc.

Black can also come from deteriorating clutch discs. In the transmission shops, they call it black death.

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post #22 of 38 (permalink) Old 06-27-2019, 10:56 AM
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I'm not clear on what's happening with the sight glass. In what way does it cloud up? Is it because the glass is completely full and you can't see an air bubble? Or the glass is somehow hazed over? If the glass isn't hazed, and the glass isn't full, you should still see an air bubble even with jet black oil.

This engine does have that air entrainment phenomena where the air whipped into the oil on startup makes the oil look milky after running a couple of minutes, but it goes away after full warmup. Will look like coolant in the oil.

Oil getting black right away points toward sludge buildup. You could try pouring diesel, gas, or kerosene through it with bottom oil drain removed and see what comes out. Or fill it, and then drain, maybe shake the bike around as violently as you can first. Even some soak time wouldn't hurt it, then shake it before draining. Rock it around and slam on the front brake, etc.

Black can also come from deteriorating clutch discs. In the transmission shops, they call it black death.
the glass is not completely full. what i see in the sight glass is a hazey brown, like if a light coating of oil/gunk is on it. when i drain the oil and let it drip, the glass clears up. when i fill with oil, i see the air bubble. it's almost like the churning of oil throws it everywhere and then it never clears up until i drain it. I'll see if i can take a pic of the sight glass.

i am pretty confident there is sludge build up. i was considering doing exactly what you were saying about gas/diesel and shaking. there's got to be gunk around the PNF

1995 VN750
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post #23 of 38 (permalink) Old 06-27-2019, 11:57 AM
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Yes, if those balls in the PNF stick in their slots, it's the same as not moving.

Strange though, the glass won't clear up without an oil change. Have to assume you tried a flashlight to see the oil level. I usually have to do that anyway. I could see the seafoam loosening varnish and making a problem, but that should be gone with the next oil change.

It might take a few flushes to make a difference, I've been amazed at how bad sludge can get, left long enough, it turns into hard carbon.

Side to side shaking should help also. You could even over-fill with the flush liquid. If you could fix a rag under the drain, you might be able to see what sort of particles come out, and gauge your progress.

2003-21k mi
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__________________________________________________ ____________
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post #24 of 38 (permalink) Old 06-27-2019, 12:29 PM
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Yes, if those balls in the PNF stick in their slots, it's the same as not moving.

Strange though, the glass won't clear up without an oil change. Have to assume you tried a flashlight to see the oil level. I usually have to do that anyway. I could see the seafoam loosening varnish and making a problem, but that should be gone with the next oil change.

It might take a few flushes to make a difference, I've been amazed at how bad sludge can get, left long enough, it turns into hard carbon.

Side to side shaking should help also. You could even over-fill with the flush liquid. If you could fix a rag under the drain, you might be able to see what sort of particles come out, and gauge your progress.
my thoughts exactly with them sticking in the slot.

i'm thinking there is a bunch of gunk in the crankcase so when it gets tossed around, it just sticks to the sight glass. i was considering actual engine flush rather than straight gas. think it would make a difference? and i was going to use an old t-shirt to filter what gets drained out. it's finer than the oil screen but would still let oil through it . i'm just bummed that i have to spend my good riding days fixing more than riding.

i know! get another bike! A backup bike! i'll have to run it by the wife, of course...heh

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post #25 of 38 (permalink) Old 06-27-2019, 01:06 PM
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I'm not sure about using a flush product, have never used one, and they've weakened flush chemicals so much. I don't use radiator flush any longer, I use white vinegar.

Gas. diesel, etc., won't hurt it and should dissolve sludge. By accident I've run my VN and a V8 both overfull with gasoline in the oil. The V8 was so full, it began running rich as hell, probably a gallon or two overfull. I almost rebuilt the carb until I found out it was a bad fuel pump. I don't recommend running with fuel in the crankcase however.

Using fuel as degreaser has always been very effective. Most soft gunk just melts.

If you happen to have a really good power massager around the house, vibrations might help a lot. An orbital sander placed against the bottom of the engine? Something that would vibrate well, without hammering.

You might also remove the round stator cover and see how much might be caked on the stator.

2003-21k mi
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__________________________________________________ ____________
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post #26 of 38 (permalink) Old 06-27-2019, 01:27 PM
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gas/diesel is probably cheaper than engine flush anyway.

i tried unscrewing the round stator cover when i first got the bike and the screws were not cooperative. i consider an impact driver, but didn't want to break anything.

thanx for the help. i'll let you guys know what i do or come up with.

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post #27 of 38 (permalink) Old 06-27-2019, 02:23 PM
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you can use seafoam in the crankcase too for engine flushing. add some to the oil a couple hundred miles before you expect to change it. follow the instructions, you dont want to add too much

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post #28 of 38 (permalink) Old 06-27-2019, 03:08 PM
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Impact driver should work, just use the right bit.

You tried a round or so of seafoam didn't you?

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post #29 of 38 (permalink) Old 06-27-2019, 04:01 PM
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Impact driver should work, just use the right bit.

You tried a round or so of seafoam didn't you?
I bought it, rode it home, then it started gettin cold. I did the ear shave and other stuff, and then changed the oil, adding in seafoam. the weather got better, so i rode it for a couple hundred miles. changed the oil again, just as black as the first oil change. so, it only really had a 200-300 mile dose of seafoam in the oil. the first several rides were learning the bike, so i attributed failure to get into second to my learning. it got worse, i added a little oil, it got a bit better. the next ride it was near impossible to get into second unless i was revved to 7k in 1st, about 30 mph.

in a nutshell, it shifted ok before i used seafoam, now it's trouble. so maybe the seafoam degunked some settled gunk and deposited it in the PNF. Time to fight back with some harsh chemicals and violent rocking/shaking to degunk the PNF!

1995 VN750
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SH847 R/R
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post #30 of 38 (permalink) Old 06-27-2019, 04:18 PM
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Does it go into 3rd? Or do you only have 1st and N.

200 miles should be a good seafoam run, I did that at the end of the oil change life.

2003-21k mi
Shaved w/UniPK92+Stock Jets-TPE/MOSFET-Shinko Tires-AGM batt-bags-chrome-LEDs...more
__________________________________________________ ____________
Repair Manual: http://www.mediafire.com/file/mj7z81..._Catalogue.pdf

Owner's Manual: http://www.mediafire.com/file/nscb5f...ers+Manual.pdf
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