The Spline Lube Procedure Part 1 - Page 2 - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
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post #11 of 164 (permalink) Old 03-17-2011, 08:57 AM
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I wound up getting a set of the cheap ones and grinding them down to fit.

I'm keepin' all the left over parts. I'm gonna use 'em to build another bike!
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post #12 of 164 (permalink) Old 03-17-2011, 09:45 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by qweesy View Post
Great writeup, I am having a hell of a time trying to find some cheapy external snap ring pliers that will fit in the coupler my 50$ adjustable internal/External are too fat bought another set today all these parts stores have around here are the adjustable type.... they were thinner but still didnt fit to get the snap ring out, even home depot didnt have a set gonna try a couple other places tomorrow what brand are yours in the pic I cant make em out or the part number on the handle.
Man, I've had those for 30 some years and I'm at work so no idea what brand they are. I think they might be PROTO brand, as they look like this one

and you can get them at Grainger supply: http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/PRO...ng-Plier-5C600
Mine are so dirty and old I'd have to wait to look at them tonight and get back to you.

Fergy
Kyle, TX VN750.com member #707 VROC#19556
2002 VN1500 Classic
Spline Lube Procedure, with photos, R/R Relocation and Coil Mod
Rusty Tank Cleaning!
Electrical Fault Finding Flowchart
SEAFOAM JUNKIE!


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post #13 of 164 (permalink) Old 03-19-2011, 06:04 AM
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Hello. I have been putting my bike back together from winter time downtime for much needed upgrades and fixes and after reading this thread and becoming super paranoid about drive line failure so......I decided to lube all the splines too. I used a mixture of Dow Corning Molykote grease and Loctite brand Krytox grease. My bike is an '86 and the splines at the rear of the drive shaft were coated with grease but I really don't think it was Moly(the grease was green?) The front splines were completely DRY!!!!!!, yet still in undamaged condition(very little wear!) Yes....I know I got very lucky!!!!!!! Now what tips I wanted to throw into this thread is that this procedure is pretty simple to do by yourself, UNLESS..........Your bike has had the center stand removed! My center stand was removed by the previous owner due to lowering the back of the bike 2" with 11" progressive springs/shocks. If you have no center stand.....this procedure really becomes a 2 PERSON JOB! Also unless you are replacing the seals in the final drive ring gear unit.....you do not need to drain out the 80w90 gear oil(unless it's time to change it anyway.) It will stay in the housing sealed when the gear housing is removed. Also if you have Vance & Hines Cruzers exhaust you will need to remove the rear exhaust hanger bolts to allow the exhaust to flex a little so that they can be pushed down to get the rear axle out.

Last edited by BRET H; 03-19-2011 at 06:12 AM.
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post #14 of 164 (permalink) Old 03-19-2011, 09:20 PM
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great instructions, I will do it myself next time instead of having my mechanic do it. They only charged me $60.00. so it wasn't too bad.

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post #15 of 164 (permalink) Old 03-21-2011, 12:17 AM
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QUESTION - Prepping for the spline lube procedure and am curios if it's worth the money to step up to 65% or 70% moly-di paste? Also, how much do I need? 8oz enough?

2004 Vulcan 750
Purchased November 9th, 2010 w/1216 miles
Found on CL - listed for 3k paid $2400
First bike and first time rider
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post #16 of 164 (permalink) Old 03-21-2011, 09:30 AM Thread Starter
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That's really up to you alone. Depends on what you are willing and able to spend. the Moly 60 we recommend is more than adequate in my opinion, and is a huge upgrade to what KAW used on them (when they used any!) and as long as you don't go over the recommended mileage between lubes, around 12K miles, the moly 60 should be way more than plenty. But, some people want to use the krytox and that's more than fine, if they can afford it. One small tube of moly 60 does at least two, maybe three lubes. I don't pack in so much it squeezes out everywhere, like I did when I did my first one, so I think I can get 3 lubes from the little 3 oz tube.

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Kyle, TX VN750.com member #707 VROC#19556
2002 VN1500 Classic
Spline Lube Procedure, with photos, R/R Relocation and Coil Mod
Rusty Tank Cleaning!
Electrical Fault Finding Flowchart
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post #17 of 164 (permalink) Old 03-21-2011, 01:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gandalv View Post
QUESTION - Prepping for the spline lube procedure and am curios if it's worth the money to step up to 65% or 70% moly-di paste? Also, how much do I need? 8oz enough?
Quote:
Originally Posted by fergy View Post
That's really up to you alone. Depends on what you are willing and able to spend. the Moly 60 we recommend is more than adequate in my opinion, and is a huge upgrade to what KAW used on them (when they used any!) and as long as you don't go over the recommended mileage between lubes, around 12K miles, the moly 60 should be way more than plenty. But, some people want to use the krytox and that's more than fine, if they can afford it. One small tube of moly 60 does at least two, maybe three lubes. I don't pack in so much it squeezes out everywhere, like I did when I did my first one, so I think I can get 3 lubes from the little 3 oz tube.
I`m with fergy, the Moly60 is entirely adequate for the spline lube. The moly molecules actually get worked into the surface of the steel with motion and heat, and conditions it. The grease itself is just a "carrier" for the moly. It is possible for the grease in an old bike to be dried up and look really nasty, and the moly conditioning is still providing a virtually friction free sliding surface for the splines.

The manual calls for 17 ml of lube. That`s about 3.5 teaspoons. I think that is more than enough.

EDIT: Dec 30, 2012. Corrected conversion of 17 ml from 3 tablespoons to 3.5 teaspoons.

Gordon

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Purchased May 16, 2008
Approx.19,300km (12,000 miles)

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Last edited by OlHossCanada; 12-30-2012 at 06:09 PM.
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post #18 of 164 (permalink) Old 03-23-2011, 05:23 PM
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Just did a Spline lube on my 2001. The moment of truth was when i slid the Final off the shaft, and SAW GREASE!!! i was so relieved. i'll put some pictures on my photobucket soon.

1986 Vn750
18,800 miles, and counting
Bone Stock
New cam chain tentioners
all fluids changed
Spline Lube
windshield
Engine Guard
B-stone S11 RWL-stock sizes
*wanted*
New grips

2001 Vn750
13,100 miles, and counting
spline lube
Bridgestone S11 100/90
Shinko 170/80
rear end oil change
aftermarket mirrors
windshield
otherwise all stock
*anticipated mods*
Engine Guard
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post #19 of 164 (permalink) Old 03-26-2011, 11:11 PM
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Spline lube extras!

Every time I go to fix one issue with my Vulcan I get surprised by finding something else thats needs to be tweaked. I also have a couple of pics to add that may help others when they do this job. Sorry for the poor focus, buth I think they're good enough to get my point across.

I used bungies to hold the shocks and brake rod out of the way, like this:
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The right lower shock stud was up against the muffler so I used a rubber chair foot to cover it and prevent scratching the chrome.
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I used a broad pine board as a ramp/lever to help lift and hold the rear wheel while aligning the hub splines during reassembly. The square yellow bucket is full of kitty litter and it kept the ramp very stable. I knew cats had to be good for something!
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When I removed the left side cover to to pull back the rubber boot over the u-joint the OEM wire guide just fell off. At first I thought it just cracked, but a closer look showed signs it had melted. See the little thin part sticking up on the bottom left and think of stretching plastic as it melts.
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Turns out 2 of the three yellow AC wires from the STATOR also showed signs of melting. The top of the plastic cover over the male bullet connector had slipped or shrunk enough to expose bare metal. Either the 2 of them arced against each other or to the frame long enough to melt the plastic guide.

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That can't be good for STATOR's health or lifespan. I advise checking them on your bike for similar problems. Replaced all three connectors. Put everything back together and went for short test ride. So far, so good!

Last edited by mistereman1; 03-26-2011 at 11:13 PM. Reason: typo
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post #20 of 164 (permalink) Old 03-28-2011, 09:05 PM
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Thanks for this guide. I finally was confident enough to do it after looking through the pictures multiple times. Thank goodness that the splines were is perfect condition and the o-ring was in good shape too. Not bad for 25 years.
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