Small leak from the final drive... Please Help! - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
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post #1 of 5 (permalink) Old 01-16-2011, 10:24 AM Thread Starter
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Small leak from the final drive... Please Help!

Hey guys, after a ride one day I noticed that I had gear oil all over the rim and side of my rear tire. I cleaned the mess up and found that there is a small leak coming from the square hole on the bottom of the final drive. When the bike is just sitting it almost does not drip. I located the drip by taking the bike for a quick spin after cleaning the back end. It seems that Centrifugal force pulls the oil out faster. Does any one know what causes this and how to fix it?

Not sure if it would make a difference but this started when I took the bike out on a really cold day. Would that perhaps change the viscosity of the gear oil and allow it to pass through seals?

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!
Hutch750
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post #2 of 5 (permalink) Old 01-16-2011, 10:33 AM
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The cold probably shrank up and hardened the seal and made it leak.
I have not had to replace that seal, but I don't think it will be a big job.
Grease your splines on the drive shaft while replacing that seal.
Other will be chimming in with thier personal info on this job.

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post #3 of 5 (permalink) Old 01-16-2011, 11:29 AM
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There's a large ring gasket between the rear hub and the wheel that needs to be replaced. Like niterider said, grease the splines while you're in there. One critical factor, make sure you use Honda Molly60 grease in there, anything else and it may still leak out. I also replaced a cardboard gasket that goes like on the axle but that was just for my own piece of mind. Not sure that it needed it. Good luck.

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post #4 of 5 (permalink) Old 01-17-2011, 08:59 AM
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I had the same issue with my final drive. I disassembled it this weekend and was going to replace the two oil seals and the o-ring but when I got the final drive open the seals were in good shape so I just replaced the o-ring. Lubed the splines and re-assembled, test road for a few miles and no leak for two days. I would go with just the o-ring. If you take everything apart carefully and deflate the tire you can get the tire and drive off without removing the exhaust and having to buy new crush gaskets.

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post #5 of 5 (permalink) Old 01-19-2011, 06:56 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the input. Any idea what the part numbers would be for the correct seals and gaskets?

Thanks!

-Hutch750
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