Replacing seals on final drive - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
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post #1 of 19 (permalink) Old 06-24-2010, 01:02 PM Thread Starter
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Replacing seals on final drive

So I did a spline lube. That part went great, but while I was in there I found that the oil seal on the drive shaft end of the final drive is leaking gear oil into the drive shaft.

What did I do? To the Verses!

https://www.vn750.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1114

also

https://www.vn750.com/forum/showthread.php?t=3750

These posts are great, and very helpful - if the seal on the wheel side is the problem.

My deal is the other seal.




Clymers manual has nothing on this. The downloaded manual DOES.

I need this special Kaw part ($80+)


to remove this piece:


..And who knows what else. haha. I'm in the process of trying to make a tool to use in place of the the special socket wrench, but it's kinda tough to find something that works. Not sure what all else I'll need to remove to get at that seal...

If anyone has done this before, please help!

Last edited by kc_matt; 07-14-2010 at 01:02 AM. Reason: spelling
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post #2 of 19 (permalink) Old 06-24-2010, 07:26 PM
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ok, I haven't made a tool for this specific part, but have made one for a simular nut.. just a lot bigger... find a socket that is the same diameter and weld tabs onto it to go inside the tangs.
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post #3 of 19 (permalink) Old 06-24-2010, 08:08 PM
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Or use a Dremel to cut away the non-tang sections.

I'm keepin' all the left over parts. I'm gonna use 'em to build another bike!
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post #4 of 19 (permalink) Old 06-24-2010, 08:25 PM
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^ that works even better... if there isn't a lot of torque needed on the nuts... the nut I needed to get off was torqued to an ungodly amount of ft lbs... irrc, the nut I was working on had about 1200 lb/ft. so needless to say the socket broke, hence welding.
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post #5 of 19 (permalink) Old 06-24-2010, 09:48 PM
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You could also go to an auto parts store and use a 4X4 hub socket. They loan them for free. Just take the housing with you to match it up.

01' VN750
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post #6 of 19 (permalink) Old 06-25-2010, 03:06 AM Thread Starter
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These are all great ideas! Thanks a bunch guys.

Before posting this thread, I had actually already been through a couple "tools". Both were pretty much made with stuff in arm's reach of me at the time, and were thus, pretty awful.

Here's #1:




This was pretty awkward and slipped off easily.

#2 I dremeled out of a PVC end cap because is was really quick and easy to work with. I also thought the square end cap would work nicely in a crescent wrench. Naturally something so quick and easy didn't work at all! Didn't even bother with a pic of #2.

On the next "tool" I was gonna get serious and find some thick walled round tubing the right size and cut the teeth into the end of it. Was gonna weld any random old socket up on the other end and go after it again.

In the morning I'm headed to El Autozone to see if they may have a hub socket that will fit. Assuming that doesn't pan out, I'm going to look for a big effin socket to notch out

Fun fact: The threads on this piece are LEFT HANDED. This is important! lol

I'll let you know how it goes!
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post #7 of 19 (permalink) Old 06-25-2010, 03:10 AM Thread Starter
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btw 1200 lb/ft?! Lordy! I think spec on this is around 180 lb/ft.. lucky me?
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post #8 of 19 (permalink) Old 06-25-2010, 10:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slimvulcanrider View Post
^ that works even better... if there isn't a lot of torque needed on the nuts... the nut I needed to get off was torqued to an ungodly amount of ft lbs... irrc, the nut I was working on had about 1200 lb/ft. so needless to say the socket broke, hence welding.
Quote:
Originally Posted by kc_matt View Post
btw 1200 lb/ft?! Lordy! I think spec on this is around 180 lb/ft.. lucky me?
slim is a mechanic in the army. He was probably working on a ten ton truck or a tank. Probably using a 1" drive impact driver too.

Since you already have the final drive off, phone a Kawi shop and talk to the manager or head mechanic. Find out if that is the only part that has to come out to change the seal. If you carry it in and it only takes a few minutes to remove and replace the part, they may not even charge you for the time. Maybe??
If the Kawi shop is closer than an auto parts store with a loaner tool, you save gas too.

Gordon

1991 VN 750 -"Cosmic Lady" or "Bad Girl"?
Purchased May 16, 2008
Approx.19,300km (12,000 miles)

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July 13, 2016, Riding on the DARKSIDE now, Classic Radial 165/80-15


TOP TEN THINGS A NEW RIDER/OWNER SHOULD DO. Click on link.
https://www.vn750.com/forum/11-vn750-general-discussion/9127-top-ten-items-you-would-suggest-new-owner-do-his-new-ride.html

Last edited by OlHossCanada; 06-25-2010 at 11:08 AM.
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post #9 of 19 (permalink) Old 06-25-2010, 04:45 PM
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And the prize goes to Gordon, I was in fact working on a 10 ton truck... front wheel bearing.
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post #10 of 19 (permalink) Old 06-26-2010, 02:13 PM
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Dude! I really like how you're going about this. I'm confident you'll get it fixed.
Just remember to not misplace any of the shims and replace them as they were.

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