Drip from rear final drive - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
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post #1 of 31 (permalink) Old 01-25-2006, 11:56 AM Thread Starter
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Drip from rear final drive

Is it normal to get a small drip from the rear final drive? There is a rectangular opening in the bottom of the drive housing, and that is where my drip is coming from and landing on the rear tire. I just had it at the local shop for tires and to look at the leak. They said the leak was from a loose drain plug and they tightened it, but it still leaks the same. I'm not sure if I believe them!

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post #2 of 31 (permalink) Old 01-25-2006, 06:22 PM
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I'm not sure if it's normal, maybe someone else has more experience with it. However, my bike developed the same leak after I pulled the rear wheel off (to lube/inspect the drive shaft). I was thinking I might have pinched/rolled the inner seal when I reinstalled the wheel. This weekend I was planning on removing the rear wheel again to chek it out. Sorry if this doesn't help
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post #3 of 31 (permalink) Old 01-26-2006, 01:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Flap1
Is it normal to get a small drip from the rear final drive? There is a rectangular opening in the bottom of the drive housing, and that is where my drip is coming from and landing on the rear tire. I just had it at the local shop for tires....
Maybe your leak is what I had on my '03 a while back. It wasn't rearend grease out of the final drive gearbox, but excess grease from the splines on the rear wheel hub coupling assembly. Water from wet roads or washing the bike would flush a little of the grease out of the hub, and it looked like oil slinging out or dripping out on the rear wheel. Since you just had tire work done, the existing grease on the hub spline was disturbed and/or more added, making a new batch of grease that can get flushed out through the square notch in the bottom side of the Final Drive case. Look at the photos of mine to see what I'm talking about. http://www.cdthayer.com/cruisermaint_3.htm#Propeller
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post #4 of 31 (permalink) Old 01-26-2006, 12:31 PM
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Ol Poop...I really appreciate you posting your work progress with pics on your site. It helped guide me in doing the work on both the wifes and my 750.

Thanks again!

2007 Kawasaki Vulcan Classic 2000 LT
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post #5 of 31 (permalink) Old 01-27-2006, 08:52 AM
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You're quite welcome.

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post #6 of 31 (permalink) Old 01-27-2006, 02:03 PM
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Quick question, while we are on the subject of final drive oil. How often do you check the level, and it apears that you just set the bike on the center stand, unscrew a very big "bolt" like plug, and make sure the oil level comes up to the hole. Is it pretty easy to just unscrew the plug?
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post #7 of 31 (permalink) Old 01-28-2006, 12:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by InsuredDisaster
Quick question, while we are on the subject of final drive oil. How often do you check the level, and it apears that you just set the bike on the center stand, unscrew a very big "bolt" like plug, and make sure the oil level comes up to the hole. Is it pretty easy to just unscrew the plug?
You got it.

Use the center stand on level ground and then remove the small bolt lower than the big one and drain the old fluid out. Then remove the big plug and let the airflow help the remainder of fluid drain. After draining put the small bottom bolt in and tightend it down (gently) and then add the final drive fluid until it is at the edge of the threads where the plug goes in. Once it's filled put the plug back in and go for a ride. You can check it up returning to make sure the level is up.

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post #8 of 31 (permalink) Old 01-28-2006, 06:04 AM
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It looks like you need a wrench of some sort. Or a socket set, if you have big enough socket. is that correct? For the oil level/ oil filler cap I mean.
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post #9 of 31 (permalink) Old 01-28-2006, 11:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by InsuredDisaster
It looks like you need a wrench of some sort. Or a socket set, if you have big enough socket. is that correct? For the oil level/ oil filler cap I mean.
Yes a 1 1/16 SAE or 27 MM socket will work.

Also if you need a manual you can download it below.

http://www.tocmanufacturing.com/File...nd%20Parts.pdf

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post #10 of 31 (permalink) Old 01-28-2006, 12:16 PM
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Hey thanks for the link! I really appreciate it. You guys are really helpful. I don't know if anyone else noticed this, but it seems the parts list is only 107 pages long, and it repeats itself over and over again. So the manual and parts list should only go from pp 1-439. Does anyone else agree?
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