run without a tank - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
Carbs and Fuel System
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post #1 of 5 (permalink) Old 09-22-2017, 12:21 AM Thread Starter
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run without a tank

Hello!!

This is my second post! I have my vulcan almost ready to start! I do not have a gas tank as it is may too far gone to be used. I will take the petcock, fuel sender and fuel cap off for when I get a new (used) one.

My question is: what would be the best way to run her without a tank? I know I can get one of those auxillary tanks but I am more concerned about fueling both carbs properly. If I do get one of those tanks or MacGyver something together, would the best way to fuel them both is to tee off a single aux tank or use/make 2, one for each carb?

Thank you for your suggestions!!
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post #2 of 5 (permalink) Old 09-22-2017, 08:25 AM
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If you fill both carbs with a funnel and then fire her up she will run for a minute or two, enough to see if it starts or not.

Doesn't matter how you connect the fuel, some here use a different petcock with a single line out and tee it to the carbs.

'99 Vulcan "Victoria"
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post #3 of 5 (permalink) Old 09-22-2017, 08:26 AM
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I would assume you could just get a t-fitting for the fuel lines and feed them off the same source. The carbs will self-regulate their fuel intake via the floats, so as long as you're feeding them both fuel they'll compensate between themselves automatically (IF your carbs are in good clean shape, of course)

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post #4 of 5 (permalink) Old 09-22-2017, 08:40 AM
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biggest thing to remember, and believe me, it will be missed if your not careful... tank must be above the carbs (higher), AND fuel must be able to come out of it on its own (gravity feed, we dont have fuel pumps on these bikes).

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post #5 of 5 (permalink) Old 09-22-2017, 07:52 PM Thread Starter
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So I just "Bench Tested" (nestled in a vice) the carbs and the rear was flooding through the jet needle and the center hole in the rear (inlet side). I used and old turkey basted type device to let fuel flow into the carbs. The gas flows in initially and then slows down and eventually piddles out those mentioned ports. The front seemed ok, it would flow quickly and stop. So I adjusted the rear float like the front. The tang was adjusted way too low (bent too far up/right?)

Someone correct me if I am wrong. The manual states to adjust the float between the 2 markers at a 15 - 20 degree angle. The spring loaded rod in the float valve should just kiss the tang? I adjusted the rear (I thought it may be to low if I tried it according to how I read it) I checked the front but decided to leave it. Knowing what I know now, the manual graphic makes sense now. The carb body should be vertical and everything else is going to be at an angle (vents, float seat thingy) which means the seam of the float at a 15-20 angle.

we'll see how it goes now.
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