New to vn750 pulling carbs? - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
Carbs and Fuel System
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post #1 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-13-2016, 09:53 AM Thread Starter
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New to vn750 pulling carbs?

Hello. My first post so I hope I don't ask too many stupid questions. I am helping a friend who wants me to help getting his 06 VN750 running. It's been sitting for 3 years at least. I have a new battery charging and want to pull the carbs for a good cleaning. I have a lot of experience with CV carbs so that's not the problem. The question I have is actually pulling the carbs for cleaning. I have the FSM but it leaves some questions. One of the first steps is to remove air filters and ducts to the surge tank. No problem. Second step is to pull the air intake ducts from the carbs and the surge tank. They are in there tight and my fear is that if I pull them I'll never get them back in with the carbs in place.

So my question is do you really have to pull those intake boots (ducts) from the surge tank to pull the carbs? I have the carbs to head boots loose. Front is loose from the carb body rear is loose from the head now. Before I do something stupid is that correct?

I've seen plenty of videos on how to clean them but not a single video on how you actually pull the carbs...

Thanks in advance.
John
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post #2 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-13-2016, 11:05 AM
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These carbs are beyotch to remove so you will want to have as much clearance as possible. That would mean removing the intake boot.
Base on the manual, you are correct with the head boots, but I don't think it is a big deal. I think the reason for it is ease of removal.

When I was removing my carbs, I couldn't really find any video with detail removal of carbs on a stock set up.
There were some that they just point and talk about the removal.
Here's one that is the closest things, but he is earshave and not stock.




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R/R relocated to the side of fuse box
Rust removed from tank
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Last edited by evulcannibal; 05-13-2016 at 11:07 AM. Reason: Added links to last two vids
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post #3 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-13-2016, 11:43 AM Thread Starter
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thank you sir and I've seen that video and it didn't help much. So when you pulled your carbs you took off the intake boots from the surge tank and carbs and were able to get them back in after you re-installed the carbs? Or did you pull them off then remove carbs and put them back in before you put the carbs back in? That's the part I'm fuzzy on.
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post #4 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-13-2016, 02:06 PM
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I install the carbs on first and then the boots. I know this was stupid of me, but I used a flat head screwdriver to push the boots in. If you use a small flat head, then you have a higher chance of poking through the boots.

Don't take my word for it. I'm just a foolish newbie.
When in doubt, just know that I am only joking around.

95 VN750
Top speed is 112 mph at ~7900 rpm
Blacked out engine
Dry rusty splines finally lubed for the first time
R/R relocated to the side of fuse box
Rust removed from tank
Marbled
In line fuel filter, 23-28 micron rating
Voltmeter
Gear indicator
LED turn signals & brake light
16 color LED engine light up & underglow
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post #5 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-15-2016, 09:19 AM Thread Starter
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Finally got the carbs out with the help of my son. I pulled up on the surge tank (stupid name and even more stupid design) and he was able to pull hard enough to get them out. We ended up taking both carbs loose from the cylinder boots then once out I pulled the rear one. It was stuck so bad to the head that we couldn't get it loose until the carbs were out of the way. My intention is to put that rear back onto the rear carb before reinstall. If I have time today I'll pull the carbs apart and clean/rebuild them. Just out of curiosity I pulled the cap off that exposes the jets and the slow speed jet is plugged. So all of this effort was not wasted. They are dirty and needed to be cleaned.
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post #6 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-15-2016, 01:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdvorchak View Post
Finally got the carbs out with the help of my son. I pulled up on the surge tank (stupid name and even more stupid design) and he was able to pull hard enough to get them out. We ended up taking both carbs loose from the cylinder boots then once out I pulled the rear one. It was stuck so bad to the head that we couldn't get it loose until the carbs were out of the way. My intention is to put that rear back onto the rear carb before reinstall. If I have time today I'll pull the carbs apart and clean/rebuild them. Just out of curiosity I pulled the cap off that exposes the jets and the slow speed jet is plugged. So all of this effort was not wasted. They are dirty and needed to be cleaned.
Well done ! - -
I strapped the Surge Tank up tight....what ever works ! - -

'86 VN750 13,700 mi -Stock
-Purchased 2008 w/8800mi
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Splines Lubed - 11/4/2012 - MF AGM Battery
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...have a vulcan good day!
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post #7 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-15-2016, 02:52 PM
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I usually suggest just replacing the pilot jets than trying to clean them. If you have some thin piano or guitar wire you can ream them out....but depending on how nasty they are its a lot safer to replace them.

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post #8 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-15-2016, 03:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Knifemaker View Post
I usually suggest just replacing the pilot jets than trying to clean them. If you have some thin piano or guitar wire you can ream them out....but depending on how nasty they are its a lot safer to replace them.
Coming from Mr. Money Bags here.

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post #9 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-15-2016, 08:38 PM
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The carb boots have to be in a specific alignment on reinstall, there is a little nipple on the boot that has to be I believe to the top of the cylinder for proper alignment. I went in from the left or clutch side with the acct/mcct removed, installed the choke cable first then installed. then I put the accel cables on. still a pain but easiest way I found!

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acct to mcct mod https://www.vn750.com/forum/showthread.php?t=17917

rekeying locks, https://www.vn750.com/forum/showthread.php?t=7309

stator replacement walkthrough, https://www.vn750.com/forum/showthread.php?t=11369
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post #10 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-16-2016, 07:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OleDirtyDoc View Post
Coming from Mr. Money Bags here.
Well, pilot jets are like the most expensive thing you can buy for your bike right?

The problem is folks jam a wire up the jet, hold it to the light and if they can see light through it, figure it's clean. But many times the diameter of that hole is too small, they can't see the hard varnish coating the walls when it's that small.. But they stick it back in, and wonder why it won't idle right, and if asked, claim "they just cleaned the jets, it must be something else"...
Went through this myself with a Honda ....jets looked clear... But after I got a new set it was obvious the holes were different sizes.

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