Seal my leaky boots???? - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-10-2016, 02:59 PM Thread Starter
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Seal my leaky boots????

So my carb boots were leaking causing a lean pop. Ordered new boots and clamps, all genuine Kawasaki, all the correct part numbers and all went on with absolutely no issues.

Lined up the carb nipples to the markers on the heads, tightened up the clamps good and tight...........


My new carb boots are leaking just as much as the old ones were (the old ones actually had chunks torn out of the inside of them, previous owner had them on the wrong heads and obviously forced the carbs in)..........

The carbs are seated in the new boots perfectly and the carb side of the boots don't leak, just both head sides.

Any ideas on the cause?????

Can I seal up the head sides of the boots with some kind of silicone sealer?????

Getting desperate at this stage, I can see the light at the end of the tunnel.......... And it has been a long tunnel with a lot of work!!!!!

Cheers guys.
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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-10-2016, 03:25 PM
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I'm new to engine work, so forgive the questions...

Can you tell where exactly the leak is (by spraying starting fluid, or whatever?) Is it just one side leaking or both?

It seems odd to me that a well-seated boot with tight clamps would have a leak. Seems like there would have to be something like a ridge on the rubber's surface causing a tunnel when assembled.

I would imagine that rtv would hold up well during use, but would worry about debris getting where it shouldn't upon disassembly.

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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-10-2016, 03:40 PM Thread Starter
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On the rear cylinder, the bottom of the boot is leaking.......... If I spray carb cleaner or something similar on the top of the boot at the head side, it's only when the fluid gets to the bottom of the boot that the idle drops.

On the front cylinder, as soon as the fluid hits the head side of the boot, the idle drops.

If I spray on the carb side of either boot, there is no change in idle.

It's only leaking where the boots join to the heads, no leaks in the middle or carb sides of the boots.

I should add that these were brand new boots, not some second hand off eBay or anything.

Can you over tighten the clamps causing the rubber to crimp somewhere???? I can't imagine this being the case though because the clamps aren't exactly heavy duty and the rubber is quite thick and thight fitting.

Cheers.
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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-10-2016, 03:43 PM
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Are the Front /Rear boots on Front / Rear boots correct....I believe their is a difference....
someone pls correct me if I am wrong....
- -

'86 VN750 13,700 mi -Stock
-Purchased 2008 w/8800mi
Replaced ALL Cables . Kuryakyn LED Voltmeter
SilverStar Ultra 9003/HB2 H4 Headlamp, Jardine Fwd Controls,
Iridiums DPR7EIX-9 & Wires, Tuxedo Mod, Coil Mod, P/U Sensor Mod, Fork Seals,
Splines Lubed - 11/4/2012 - MF AGM Battery
Additional Flashing LED Brake Light on Trunk
Dampers went out @ 13+K !
After TOC MCCT's..... so amazingly quiet I discovered a rattling heat shield on my stock exhaust !
...have a vulcan good day!
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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-10-2016, 04:01 PM Thread Starter
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You are 100% correct sir and they are on the correct cylinders. The front boot has a big F on it and the rear has a big R. I also cross referenced the part numbers for front and rear before I fitted. The only reason I gave it so much thought was that the previous owner had them on the wrong cylinders, I noticed when I first took the carbs out to change the jets, the carbs were sitting arse ways on the bike, the carb nipples were nowhere near lined up either....... I thought I had solved the problem when I corrected those initially, I only noticed the chunks missing on closer inspection afterwards.

Thanks for your thoughts guys. It's good to bounce ideas and cover all bases, no doubt we'll come across something.
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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-10-2016, 04:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skinnylizzy View Post
You are 100% correct sir and they are on the correct cylinders. The front boot has a big F on it and the rear has a big R. I also cross referenced the part numbers for front and rear before I fitted. The only reason I gave it so much thought was that the previous owner had them on the wrong cylinders, I noticed when I first took the carbs out to change the jets, the carbs were sitting arse ways on the bike, the carb nipples were nowhere near lined up either....... I thought I had solved the problem when I corrected those initially, I only noticed the chunks missing on closer inspection afterwards.

Thanks for your thoughts guys. It's good to bounce ideas and cover all bases, no doubt we'll come across something.
My only other thought I have is....
Are their any remains of the old boots "Gunked on" the manifold or carbs ....thus preventing a tight vacuum/air seal ?
If not....I am out of possible correction idea's ....
WilliamTech

'86 VN750 13,700 mi -Stock
-Purchased 2008 w/8800mi
Replaced ALL Cables . Kuryakyn LED Voltmeter
SilverStar Ultra 9003/HB2 H4 Headlamp, Jardine Fwd Controls,
Iridiums DPR7EIX-9 & Wires, Tuxedo Mod, Coil Mod, P/U Sensor Mod, Fork Seals,
Splines Lubed - 11/4/2012 - MF AGM Battery
Additional Flashing LED Brake Light on Trunk
Dampers went out @ 13+K !
After TOC MCCT's..... so amazingly quiet I discovered a rattling heat shield on my stock exhaust !
...have a vulcan good day!
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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-10-2016, 04:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WilliamTech View Post
My only other thought I have is....
Are their any remains of the old boots "Gunked on" the manifold or carbs ....thus preventing a tight vacuum/air seal ?
If not....I am out of possible correction idea's ....
WilliamTech
Ditto on this. Certainly worth checking. Good luck!

1992 US-nonCA * tuxedo mod * r/r relocated

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Service Manual Download
Wiring Diagram + annotations * still undergoing revisions, but still more useful than the generic one. Let me know if you find mistakes or think something additional should be added
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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-10-2016, 04:42 PM
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I'd take a good look at the mounting surface on the intakes. It's possible the previous owner used a screwdriver or something to pry the boots off, and left a gouge on the area the boots slip over....thus creating a channel air can enter even with the boots tightly clamped down.

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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-10-2016, 05:00 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
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I'd take a good look at the mounting surface on the intakes. It's possible the previous owner used a screwdriver or something to pry the boots off, and left a gouge on the area the boots slip over....thus creating a channel air can enter even with the boots tightly clamped down.

If this is the case, which I believe is a most likely culprit, what can I do to close up these channels? Can I use a silicone sealer or even a Shellac? If I'm careful with my application of a silicone sealer, am I at risk of it breaking up and entering the engine.

I've had these carbs off more times than I can count at this stage, thank God for the ear shave is all I can say. Hahaha.
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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-10-2016, 08:43 PM
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If you can in fact find the scratches or gouges....I'd use an two part epoxy to fill them... You could try using a silicone type sealant too, as it can withstand the heat, and tiny bits won't hurt the motor if they get sucked in.

You can also try sanding the surface with an fine emerery cloth.
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