High flash-point solvent... - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 03-01-2016, 09:08 AM Thread Starter
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High flash-point solvent...

I'd like to clean my ears. The service manual says to use high flash-point solvent instead of gasoline or other low flash-point chemicals. So could anyone give me an idea of what sort of options are considered safe enough to keep from eating the element, but strong enough to get the job done, and are high flash-point?

thanks in advance
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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 03-01-2016, 09:50 AM
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Mineral spirits work well,but I use q-tips on my ears.they only state high flash so you won't catch everything on fire and sue them

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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 03-01-2016, 09:58 AM
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I hear mineral spirits or kerosene. I just don't know what the hell you're supposed to do with the solvent once you're done cleaning. Time to buy an old lantern to wrench by when the sun goes down.
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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 03-01-2016, 10:06 AM
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I just use soap and hot water on foam filters. Either dishwashing liquid or Castrol Super Clean, but you have to rinse well with the Castrol.

I have used gas on foam lawnmower filters.
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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 03-01-2016, 11:48 AM
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I use Marine Soap...water soluble and not hazardous at all.
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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 03-01-2016, 12:57 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks all for the fast confirmational response. I've used dish soap in the past, followed by gasoline, but you know... that was on bikes and engines that were from my home planet and could be easily replaced. Just making sure there wasn't anything "weird". And i will be a good boy and get some mineral spirits to use where the dish soap fails.

Do these things really fall apart after around 4 to 5 cleanings? I have yet to see one ( and am sort of already expecting something that may as well be replaced ).

Is it possible to get the ear boots that connect to the surge tank area seated without taking off the tank?
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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 03-01-2016, 08:35 PM
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Mine were starting to rot when I got the bike with 13k miles.

You should be able to get the ducts back in, but you really don't have to take them off to service the filters.

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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 03-01-2016, 09:18 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spockster View Post
Mine were starting to rot when I got the bike with 13k miles.

You should be able to get the ducts back in, but you really don't have to take them off to service the filters.
I took the ears off last week to re-route the throttle and choke cables since they had been routed *outside* of the ear mount. I didn't have time to clean them though or take them apart and still didn't know about the "high flash-point" stuff the manual was talking about. While doing that, on ONE side, the duct was attached to the ear, and on the OTHER side, it was attached to the surge tank and that one would NOT come loose, or at least not to any degree i wanted to mess with. That's what spurred my question. I am pretty sure they are both seated okay because of the pressure involved with the screwing them back in and feeling around behind the ear, but i was just curious if anyone had experience with those and what to be watchful for. It occurs to me, the only way to really get a good visual inspection, though would be to remove the tank.

Getting new filters tomorrow, ordered them today at a parts place up in the valley. Based on the internal shape of everything else on the bike so far, i expect your rotten ones would have been an improvement to what i am expecting.
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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 03-02-2016, 11:19 PM Thread Starter
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update and photos

Ok so got the new filters still in their boxes, took off the ears, it's night here so i stuck a baby-clean rag into the surge tank, and pulled it through to the other side after getting both boots off. So that will keep "whatever" from crawling inside ( and in the back of my mind i am thinking maybe i should let "whatever" crawl out ).

Pulled off the little brackets from the ears and had to scrape out road-gunk from the holes to even see what kind of head was on the screws. There is no way in hell these have been changed inside of several years or more, perhaps even the full 30 years, no way to know. The screws appear to be tiny hexagonal, and even though i have a tiny hex head, its from a replaceable tip driver and the collar that holds the tip won't fit down the hole.

So far, I've tried my dykes with a nail, a bit of steel rod, a junky phillips screwdriver, and so far no luck.

Anyone have a clue what kind of size/shape those screw heads are? 1987 California emissions model.

Any other suggestions would be appreciated. Need her up and running by noon tomorrow. Any tool-making tips would be helpful as well.

I'd hate to end up using my drill.
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Last edited by RoadHopper; 03-02-2016 at 11:23 PM.
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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old 03-02-2016, 11:29 PM
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Those are probably Torx head screws, but it looks like you're working from the wrong side, unless you're doing something besides the filters.

Plastic chrome piece on the outside, comes off, phillips screws if I recall. Then the filters have screws/bolts after you get inside.

* Been a while since I had ears, so I could be mistaken.

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Last edited by Spockster; 03-02-2016 at 11:32 PM.
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