Good Carb Reading - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
Carbs and Fuel System
From the gas tank to the carbs
All fuel system discussion

 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 3 (permalink) Old 11-06-2007, 03:00 PM Thread Starter
Giggity!
 
kanuck69's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Ohio, Zanesville
Posts: 4,307
iTrader: (24)
     
Garage
Talking Good Carb Reading

This is some info I found. It is not me, I simply thought it would be good to post. As we all ask about the carbs so much I wanted to post a good explanation of how they work.

This is from cyclemaintenance.com

Basically, there are usually three carburetor systems in one carburetor. The first, or primary, provides the proper gas/air mix when the bike is idling (or when it's at a very low rpm), the next provides gas/air as you open the throttle (the middle range), and the last provides the proper mixture as you scream by that geek in the BMW at full throttle who thinks he can out run you at 120 mph (the writer of this article admits to breaking no laws, just dreaming about it!).

The three carburetor parts are called the pilot jet (or idle jet), the needle jet, and main jet. The pilot and main jet are just fixed nozzles, while the needle jet has a needle that slides up and down, depending on the amount of vacuum provided. The throttle, which more accurately is called the "butterfly valve" (because it has a central pivot point and two "wings" off of the center that essentially form a circular disk), is primarily responsible for letting the air flow, and hence the vacuum, increase and decrease in the carb. When the throttle is "closed," there still is air that comes in through the "bleed, or pilot screw" and the gas comes up through the pilot jet. So, even when you think the throttle is closed, there still are bypasses in the carb to allow the air and gas to flow to the engine (otherwise your engine would die).

As you open up the throttle, more gas is sucked up by vacuum through the needle jet. The rate at which the gas travels up through the needle jet is determined by the position (and condition) of the jet needle (different than the needle jet!), which travels up and down inside the needle jet as you open (up) and close (down) the throttle, or more accurately, as the vacuum in the carb venturi increases and decreases. The main jet takes over usually around 80-90% throttle open. It is the largest of the jets (and has the largest hole), and therefore lets the largest amount of gas pass through. Think of the jets in a carb like a nozzle on an aerosol can, just in reverse. Instead of pressurizing the can and forcing the liquid through the nozzle and atomizing into the air, a carb provides vacuum to suck liquid through a finely tuned nozzle and atomizes it. The diameter of the holes in the jet nozzles varies from less than a millimeter to maybe a couple or few millimeters. You can see why getting gunk in there really messes things up! Take a 1 millimeter chunk of goop. That’s all it would take to fully clog one of your pilot jets on your bike. Now the bike might not stop running, but you may notice that it is idling very poorly. Ok, so you basically understand the innards of the carb. So how does the gas get into the carb and up the jets? The gas is sucked up through all of the jets from the float bowl, or float chamber.

Think of it as a mini gas tank for each carb. When the fuel level in the float chamber drops to a certain level, the floats will fall down by gravity and pull on the bottom of the needle valve (again, different than the needle jet and the jet needle…don’t blame me, I didn’t name them!). The needle valve is a small (usually less than a half inch long and a quarter inch in diameter) metal needle that pushes up and seals on a rubber "seat". The rubber "seat" is pretty much just a small rubber O-ring. Anyhow, the floats pull down on the needle valve to let more (liquid) fuel into the float chamber. The fuel will then flow by gravity from the fuel tank (as long as your fuel valve is on PRIme or the vacuum of the engine is holding the fuel valve open).

You can see why dirty carb parts make for a poorly running carb – there are a lot of little pieces that operate on nothing but gravity and air to work! The choke. The choke used to always be literally a choke. Originally, it was a smaller butterfly valve that sat at the inlet of the carb. On the small engines for a lot of yard equipment, and for many motorcycles, this is still how the carbs are choked. By closing the choke, you "choke" off some of the air coming into the carb, thereby forcing the cylinder to pull a higher ratio of gas into the engine, making it easier for a cold engine to start and run while it was warming up (but gives poorer performance at higher rpms).

Some newer (actually, they’ve been doing it for years) bikes will use a small needle valve (separate from the one that lets fuel into the bowl) to allow more fuel to flow through the carb using small passage-ways that bypass the regular method of metering the gas. Regardless of the method of choking, they are still usually controlled by a single cable that is attached to a cam at the carbs via a set screw (to set the amount of slack in the cable – and there should be some slack – usually less than 1/8") and run up to your handlebars somewhere where there is a lever.

Last edited by kanuck69; 07-08-2011 at 01:00 PM.
kanuck69 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 3 (permalink) Old 11-08-2007, 12:56 AM
Senior Member
 
MIKES86VULCAN's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Oahu, HI.
Posts: 114
iTrader: (0)
 
Thumbs up

Thanks for the info! I am not mechanical minded and this info puts things in a simpler picture for me to understand the workings of the carbs...

Mike B.
MIKES86VULCAN is offline  
post #3 of 3 (permalink) Old 07-08-2011, 01:09 PM Thread Starter
Giggity!
 
kanuck69's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Ohio, Zanesville
Posts: 4,307
iTrader: (24)
     
Garage
kanuck69 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Bookmarks

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

Once registered, your User Name"cannot be changed". We can make exceptions within 7 days, but after that, it is set in stone.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome