Those air/fuel screws - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
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post #1 of 17 (permalink) Old 08-08-2007, 05:24 PM Thread Starter
 
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Those air/fuel screws

Okay, I have looked at all the pics, links, and done the reading, but I want to make sure I am drilling the right thing out to get to the screws I need to. In the pics, they are located right next to the vacuum lines correct? And both carbs are the same? Also, when I marbeled, do I need to remove and plug the small vacuum line to the air box as well, or just the lines to the reeds? I'm thinking for me the stupid question is the one I fail to ask! Thanks!!!!
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post #2 of 17 (permalink) Old 08-08-2007, 07:53 PM
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WOAH! You shouldn't have to Drill Anything! Here's a photo courtesy of Dianna
LEFT

Right
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post #3 of 17 (permalink) Old 08-08-2007, 08:59 PM
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They ship from the factory sealed with a lead plug so it has to be removed and drilling is a definite option.

Yes, location is correct as shown on photo's above.

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post #4 of 17 (permalink) Old 08-08-2007, 09:55 PM
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Use a sharp dental pick instead of a drill, the lead is very soft and you can poke the pick right through and pop it out. If you screw up with the drill bit,,, good luck.
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post #5 of 17 (permalink) Old 08-09-2007, 09:16 AM
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Damb, no kidding. they come sealed? That seem's so odd. Well, it shows I've never had a new bike. Just being careful & thought thew photo's would help. I'd still be a little leary of drillingthem though.
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post #6 of 17 (permalink) Old 08-09-2007, 03:17 PM Thread Starter
 
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Thank you for the input, and YES, the pics are great! Those are the ones I was looking at! May try to get this done tonight. Still have the backfire issue, so I am hoping the carb adjustment will help. Thanks again!
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post #7 of 17 (permalink) Old 08-09-2007, 05:33 PM
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Originally Posted by kanuck69 View Post
Damb, no kidding. they come sealed? That seem's so odd. Well, it shows I've never had a new bike. Just being careful & thought thew photo's would help. I'd still be a little leary of drillingthem though.
It's for emissions control. The screws are factory set at 1 5/8ths turns out - sort of "optimal" fuel/air mix both for riding and for reducing emissions. But "optimal" has a pretty broad definition, ergo - we're all getting the lead out.

C
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post #8 of 17 (permalink) Old 08-10-2007, 02:25 AM
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But "optimal" has a pretty broad definition, ergo - we're all getting the lead out.
LOL!!! Good one Cindy


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post #9 of 17 (permalink) Old 08-12-2007, 04:03 PM
 
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Any ideas for getting the screws out when there seized in place?

Ive been soaking them for days now in WD-40, but the screwdriver is still starting to chew the little bugger!!!
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post #10 of 17 (permalink) Old 08-15-2007, 12:43 PM Thread Starter
 
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Well, I got the lead out! These caps are thick, about 1/8". Do not try to just poke or punch something through them, you will push them into the screws, and/or break the housing of the carb. I put a very small ball end dremel bit in, bored a very small hole in each cap, screwed a sheetrock screw very lightly into the hole, and gave it a little tug with the channel locks! Worked great, took about 5 minutes total! I turned the screws out 1/2 turn each, bike runs great, idles better, (even when cold w/o choke) and no more popping out the exhaust! Bucky, try either using a product called Deep Creep, or Free All. Both of these work great. WD-40 just doesn't penetrate that well. I work on old cars (30's era) and Free All gets those rusted bolts out with ease!
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