2000 Vulcan 750 - Float Levels - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
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post #1 of 18 (permalink) Old 03-23-2014, 05:02 PM Thread Starter
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2000 Vulcan 750 - Float Levels

Rundown of what is going on:

So... I saw this 2000 Kawasaki Vulcan on CraigsList for $1200... The Seller said it ran smooth, it just leaks fuel between the cylinders... (oh no! - easy fix but I didn't tell him that lol) ... Bought it for $1000 and got 2 free helmets and cover.

YAY!

Or so I thought... I knew the overflowing of gas out of the carb exhaust ports was due to sticky or incorrectly set floats. When I finally managed to pull the carb out and get it disassembled, I was presented with a sobering fact that I in fact DID buy someone elses problem and grief... for $1000 bucks no less.

The damn float bowl had pockets of green sludge (almost like wet flour, but not as wet or gooey) that was accumulating in various corners of the float bowl as well as causing the float needles to be extremely stuck.

I got the float bowls all cleaned out, the needles unstuck and cleaned, the needle ports cleaned ... I sprayed Gum-out Carb Cleaner in every crevis I could find whilst avoid gaskets and hoses the best I could.

So I put everything back together, slapped it back on with fresh gas and it came alive only for a second or two. I turned on the choke (and ended up snapping the cable in the process after repeated use), it would turn over and start and run for about 3 seconds then quit. I used starting spray to give it a little something to feed on and maybe fill the bowls and even then it wouldn't run for more than a second.

Upon further inspection, I noticed on of the float bowls was set extremely low, and the other was high. I have no clue where they should be set, but there are 2 extruding lines inside the float bowl in the same position on both sides and I'm not sure what those are...?

I also noticed that on one carb, the A/F was out at 2 turns and the other carb was in at only out a half turn.... wtf?! lol.


I have a few questions to hopefully get this carb back in functionality....
  1. What are the 3 holes at the mouth of the carb that attaches to the intake?
  2. What is the recommended turns out from stop for the A/F ratio screw?
  3. What is a good float height to set?
  4. Does altering the float height have any effect on running lean\rich?

I've read how to use a home made manometer, but I've no idea how to adjust the vacuum? The problem with this thing running ALL resides in the carbs. I'm curious if spraying Gum-Out Carb Cleaner in every crevis is good enough to get functionality back to allow me to get some seafoam\stabil in to the gas?

Any hints, links, solutions or ideas is welcomed!
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post #2 of 18 (permalink) Old 03-23-2014, 05:30 PM
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First...dont use a carb cleaner...they can damage the rubber diaphragms...try running a lil SeaFoam through it first...if that doesnt help, try backblowing the carbs (proceedure is a sticky thread in the carb section I wrote up).....

At worst, you may need to remove the carbs and fully clean....that whole proceedure is in these pages too....carb removal/reinstall is a bitch...but if ya do it once, it gets easier....



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post #3 of 18 (permalink) Old 03-23-2014, 05:37 PM Thread Starter
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lol I completely agree on it being a bitch.
this is my 1st bike with a bigger than 250 engine and I've always like the vulcans despite some of the stuck-ups I know at work who said the vulcans had issues with the needle bearings in the crank case going bad.

I am so stoked about this bigger bike, i can not wait to get off this awful 250 rebel im on. Was great when i first got it, was desperate for 2 wheels to get to work so I got what I could afford..... now I wish I didn't get it lol.


I'll do what I can and go from there, will post any updates.


just to clarify, that green sludge i mentioned is ethanol poisoning eh?
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post #4 of 18 (permalink) Old 03-23-2014, 06:35 PM
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Vulcans never had no issues with needle bearings.....
Main issues with the VN700/750 was the stator crappin out, and on the newer models, the drive splines werent lubed at the factory....other than that, the VNs were racing tanks....eventually the ACCT would go and need to be reolaces with an MCCT....
There have never been any any engine bearing problems with them....I know....I have 2, both over 30 yrs old, lol....



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post #5 of 18 (permalink) Old 03-23-2014, 10:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CoffeeSon View Post


just to clarify, that green sludge i mentioned is ethanol poisoning eh?
That is my guess.
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post #6 of 18 (permalink) Old 03-24-2014, 12:07 AM
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The bearing problem sounds more like the Suzuki Intruder.

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post #7 of 18 (permalink) Old 03-24-2014, 11:16 AM
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Quote:
What are the 3 holes at the mouth of the carb that attaches to the intake?
What is the recommended turns out from stop for the A/F ratio screw?
What is a good float height to set?
Does altering the float height have any effect on running lean\rich?
Not sure about what three holes you are talking about,2.5 turns out is a good staring point, You can find the correct float settings in the online manual in Kanuck69 sig line.Float height doesn't have any effect on rich or lean unless you have them set so low that it runs out of fuel at high rpm.

Next tie before you put them back in make a drip bottle to put gas into the float bowls on the bench to test for fuel over flow before installing them again. Check both needles to make sure there is not a ring worn around them letting fuel flow by them and also check the seats to make sure they are not scratched or nasty, if they are scratched they will leak. Clean then with a pencil eraser to keep from scratching them.hope this helps a little.





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post #8 of 18 (permalink) Old 03-24-2014, 07:24 PM Thread Starter
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Guess what!!!!!!









She runs!

I rode her all the way home, 50 miles give or take.

The only thing I am noticing is she likes to randomly jerk\hop ... like shes missing. I think I may have to look in to a new clutch too, I don't like watching my rpms jump from 5k to 6.5k without noticing an increase in speed lol. Could be the clutch lever is too tight tho too.
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post #9 of 18 (permalink) Old 03-24-2014, 07:28 PM
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Try adjusting the cable first

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post #10 of 18 (permalink) Old 03-24-2014, 08:30 PM
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the tach jumping like that can be caused by a bad or loose ground wire

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