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Carbs and Fuel System
From the gas tank to the carbs
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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old 11-20-2013, 07:42 PM Thread Starter
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I can't get this motherf***er out. Kawasakis are awesome, but what a crappy job on this carburetor design. Thanks to everyone here, I've successfully removed everything attached to the carbs (except the rear rubber boot). I've literally been pulling on this thing from every single f***ing angle possible. Whenever one piece of it becomes clear of all the s**t surrounding it, another piece is hitting that f***ing surge tank. This bike is already in bad shape. It's missing a mirror, has rust spots, almost every bolt is rusty, needs a new tire, has a shredded seat, needs a new battery, is missing the rear brake and has a sticky throttle. It already has 40,000 miles on it. I'm confident I can get it running if I clean the carbs and get a new battery, but I just don't know if it's worth it. To be honest, I'm 98% sure I'll never get the carbs back in, IF I can get them out in the first place. I could do the ear shave mod, but I don't know if I should spend the $150+ for a new battery and the ear shave stuff. What do you guys think? Ditch this bike, or cut the surge tank off and spend the money in the hopes that it will run?
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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old 11-20-2013, 07:47 PM
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You can get those carbs out without cutting anything, trust me. Its tricky to be sure but doable, and what I reccomend. You have to slightly twist them as they are moving out of the right side of the frame. They will be super tight going out and putting them back in. As far as the surge tank goes try wedging it up with something, it will move quite a bit. If you want to take the surge tank out in one piece that is doable as well.

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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old 11-20-2013, 09:33 PM
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The first time I took my carbs out the surge tank was still there. I removed it before putting them back in because I realized how much of PITA that was going to be. Like M_Angell said, they are very tight coming out. I used a large flat head screw driver to pry the surge tank up enough to get them out.

Or you could try Ceal's method and kick them the **** out.

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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old 11-20-2013, 10:08 PM
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It's a bitch getting them out and in. I removed the gas tank and air box for a little extra room. Good luck man.

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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old 11-21-2013, 07:33 PM
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The first time I took my carbs out the surge tank was still there. I removed it before putting them back in because I realized how much of PITA that was going to be. Like M_Angell said, they are very tight coming out. I used a large flat head screw driver to pry the surge tank up enough to get them out.

Or you could try Ceal's method and kick them the **** out.
Works every time! lol

Prying up the air box is all you really need. Don't be gentle with it, takes a LOT to break the damned thing. I slide a large flat headed screw driver which has a square body (harder to bend than a round one) between the air box and the right side of the frame and pry it up as much as I can. That makes the carbs clear everything by just twisting them out towards the right side of the bike. Once you get the hang of it, you can do it really quickly. It's all in lifting up the air box high enough, and a good twist of the carbs.

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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old 11-21-2013, 07:39 PM
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I did like Deviate, After wrestling for 45 minutes to get the carbs out I didn't want to fight the good fight to get them back past the surge tank so I just removed it while I was in there. Added a little cost since you may need to rejet (I did) and get some filters for the crankcase and carb vents after removing the ears but the bike now starts and runs better.

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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old 11-21-2013, 09:45 PM
..have a vulcan good day!
 
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Stock bike ; I had a clogged Jet, factory foam air filter deterioration, pulled carb's, resolved foam problem stuck in Float jets, replaced Float jets with new (worn), Yea it takes some finagling.... Re-installed carb's .....tight but Np !

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'86 VN750 13,700 mi -Stock
-Purchased 2008 w/8800mi
Replaced ALL Cables . Kuryakyn LED Voltmeter
SilverStar Ultra 9003/HB2 H4 Headlamp, Jardine Fwd Controls,
Iridiums DPR7EIX-9 & Wires, Tuxedo Mod, Coil Mod, P/U Sensor Mod, Fork Seals,
Splines Lubed - 11/4/2012 - MF AGM Battery
Additional Flashing LED Brake Light on Trunk
Dampers went out @ 13+K !
After TOC MCCT's..... so amazingly quiet I discovered a rattling heat shield on my stock exhaust !
...have a vulcan good day!

Last edited by WilliamTech; 11-22-2013 at 11:38 AM.
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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old 11-21-2013, 10:39 PM
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Here's an idea to see if she runs first.get some starting fluid and jumper cables.slide up the slides un the carbs and open the throttle and give a few(not too much as you will flood the plugs)squirts of starting fluid in each carb.hook jumper cables to bikes terminals and other end to a car battery and see if she starts.if she does and sounds good it's ear shave time brother

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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old 11-21-2013, 10:43 PM
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Remember it's a free bike so if you get it running for under a grand you're doin fine.and you can say YOU got it running

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Support your local FREEBIRDS MC
1986/5 Vn700/750 Frankenfook cross eyed bitch "Mellisa Fayhe"
I am a BIKER and i'm proud.FREEBIRDS MC CENTRAL NY

lowered with progessive 412 10" shocks
rejetted for K/N Pods part#rc 2340
sportster seat

'I didn't lose my mind.i gave it away

BRING BACK WOLFIE."Peace and Carrots"RIP
"And I'm free...as a bird"John Lennon Free as a Bird
"I only carry when I have my pants on"Joe Robinson RIP aka Old Dog
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