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post #1 of 15 (permalink) Old 08-10-2013, 01:55 PM Thread Starter
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earshave questions

Hello all,

Have a few questions. I plan on earshaving, coastering, and rejetting my bike. If I was to earshave and coaster with the stock exhaust, would 142 mains and 40 pilot work ok? I am at 450' altitude in Upstate New York. I plan on possibly adding Cruzers at a later time like this winter. I just want to know if these jet sizes are too big for just the earshave. My other question is what would happen if I put these size jets in and did not do the earshave? and finally, How much different is gas mileage with larger jets. I get about 50/ gallon right now. Any feedback would be appreciated!
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post #2 of 15 (permalink) Old 08-10-2013, 02:20 PM
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I can't answer all of your questions but I will answer the ones I can. I am in FL right at about sea level. I did the ear shave with stock exhaust and I used 142/42 jets. Now I have the Cruzers and the same jets. It has run great with stock exhaust and the V&H. My feeling on the jets is every bike is different. I went with 142/42 at the recommendation of many threads here and it seems to have worked great for me. That may not be the case for others. Some guys on here will tell you that you don't have to rejet at all for just an earshave. You may have to experiment to find the perfect combination.

For gas mileage...that will depend on how much you like to go fast. I typically drive 65-75 on the way to work. Probably 80% of my driving is at that speed. I get about 47-48 mpg. Honestly not a whole lot different from what it was before the earshave.

My guess on what would happen if you put in those jets without doing the earshave is you will cuss a lot trying to get the carbs back in without removing all of the emissions stuff. Then you might run rich which will hurt your gas mileage and blacken your exhaust pipes, but that's about it. Really, if you are going to the trouble to pull the carbs and rejet, go ahead and do the earshave. It cleans up the look of the bike and gets rids of the emission crap at the same time and makes putting the carbs back in sooo much easier.

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post #3 of 15 (permalink) Old 08-10-2013, 02:32 PM
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I did the earshave, and blanked off the emissions reed valves. I fitted pod type air filters. I tried the shims under the needle, 140 mains and 42 pilot jets, it ran very rich even with the float hights adlusted to standard specs. I went back to standard carb settings and all is well. I have the standard exhaust system and the bike is a '85 VN700. With the surge tank out it is a much more straightforward job to get the carbs in and out. I agree that not all bikes need a rejet for this work, but some do.

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post #4 of 15 (permalink) Old 08-10-2013, 02:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Deviate View Post
I can't answer all of your questions but I will answer the ones I can. I am in FL right at about sea level. I did the ear shave with stock exhaust and I used 142/42 jets. Now I have the Cruzers and the same jets. It has run great with stock exhaust and the V&H. My feeling on the jets is every bike is different. I went with 142/42 at the recommendation of many threads here and it seems to have worked great for me. That may not be the case for others. Some guys on here will tell you that you don't have to rejet at all for just an earshave. You may have to experiment to find the perfect combination.

For gas mileage...that will depend on how much you like to go fast. I typically drive 65-75 on the way to work. Probably 80% of my driving is at that speed. I get about 47-48 mpg. Honestly not a whole lot different from what it was before the earshave.

My guess on what would happen if you put in those jets without doing the earshave is you will cuss a lot trying to get the carbs back in without removing all of the emissions stuff. Then you might run rich which will hurt your gas mileage and blacken your exhaust pipes, but that's about it. Really, if you are going to the trouble to pull the carbs and rejet, go ahead and do the earshave. It cleans up the look of the bike and gets rids of the emission crap at the same time and makes putting the carbs back in sooo much easier.
Just to emphasize:

PROS:
* A bit more HP
* Better throttle response
* Adds to exhaust note
* Cleaner look, easier to get at carbs, looses a couple pounds
* More fun!

CONS:
* MPG fluctuates greatly depending on how you ride
* Carbs can be a bear to reinstall
* May need to try different jet sizes to get a good balance of performance versus MPG (I chose performance).

#1: You can earshave and rejet with stock exhaust just fine
#2: You may need to experiment with different sizes of jets to find what you want
#3: 142/40's should be ok
#4: If you increase gas flow and not air flow, the bike will run super rich. It may not have the power / acceleration it once had or it may not even start.
#5: After rejet, MPG is mostly dependent on your riding style. If easy on the throttle, you should not see much of a drop; however, if you're like me, once you realize how much more responsive the bike is after modifying it, you'll have a hard time staying off the throttle, which of course, will hinder your MPG.

I only understand what I don't understand.
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post #5 of 15 (permalink) Old 08-10-2013, 03:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gibbo View Post
-----it ran very rich even with the float hights adlusted to standard specs. I went back to standard carb settings and all is well.
x2....
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post #6 of 15 (permalink) Old 08-10-2013, 06:29 PM
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I was running 138 Mains with no shims and 40 pilots with stock exhaust after ear shave. I've since put screamin eagle mufflers on & its just about right. I'm going to do a series of plug checks to figure out where I'm at at different points, but is close. I'm at 2000 ft in Las Vegas.

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Mods
Voltmeter/clock/temperature gauge
HD Electra Glide Fairing
Earshave/Coastered/CA emissions - gone...
R/R relocated
Nightster seat
Tombstone taillight
Drag specialties turn signals relocated
Sportster progressive shocks... Dropped rear 1 1/2"
Progressive Fork Springs dropped front 1"
NGK plug wires and iridium plugs
Coil Relay Mod
Paint
ACCT to MCCT
Honda Rebel luggage rack
VN800 Handlebars & controls
Screamin Eagle mufflers
F&S Engine Guard & Kury highway pegs
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post #7 of 15 (permalink) Old 08-10-2013, 09:20 PM
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I have the un-altered stock exhaust, earshave, coasters, and did not rejet. I run mainly in the 600-900ft elevation range, but sometimes get to around 2500ft. I get 43-47 mpg all the time and I enjoy the throttle response at every opportunity, I've pretty much gotten those 9000 rpm blasts out of my system, finally.

Check my signature for a tip on surge tank/airbox removal, and the Uni PK-92 air filters work well for half the cost of K&Ns.

2003-21k mi
Shaved w/UniPK92+Stock Jets-TPE/MOSFET-Shinko Tires-AGM batt-bags-chrome-LEDs...more
__________________________________________________ ____________
Repair Manual: http://www.mediafire.com/file/mj7z81..._Catalogue.pdf

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post #8 of 15 (permalink) Old 08-11-2013, 09:37 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for all the info. I will probably get the pod filters and the jets. I guess I will just have to drive it and check the spark plugs to see if it is running lean. If it is then I will throw the bigger jets in. One more question about the surge tank. Is it possible to take it off without damaging it? I was looking at an earshave instruction post and the guy used a hacksaw to remove the surge tank. I would rather take it off the "proper" way so that I could put it back on if I ever wanted or needed to.
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post #9 of 15 (permalink) Old 08-11-2013, 09:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rottaway86 View Post
Thanks for all the info. I will probably get the pod filters and the jets. I guess I will just have to drive it and check the spark plugs to see if it is running lean. If it is then I will throw the bigger jets in. One more question about the surge tank. Is it possible to take it off without damaging it? I was looking at an earshave instruction post and the guy used a hacksaw to remove the surge tank. I would rather take it off the "proper" way so that I could put it back on if I ever wanted or needed to.
Yes it is possible.
Once you have the carbs out, disconnect electrical harness in a few places....moving it out of the way. then a few other things loosened/removed....
There is a thread here with this detailed procedure written up ...unable to locate it.
maybe someone else can....


'86 VN750 13,700 mi -Stock
-Purchased 2008 w/8800mi
Replaced ALL Cables . Kuryakyn LED Voltmeter
SilverStar Ultra 9003/HB2 H4 Headlamp, Jardine Fwd Controls,
Iridiums DPR7EIX-9 & Wires, Tuxedo Mod, Coil Mod, P/U Sensor Mod, Fork Seals,
Splines Lubed - 11/4/2012 - MF AGM Battery
Additional Flashing LED Brake Light on Trunk
Dampers went out @ 13+K !
After TOC MCCT's..... so amazingly quiet I discovered a rattling heat shield on my stock exhaust !
...have a vulcan good day!
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post #10 of 15 (permalink) Old 08-11-2013, 11:05 AM
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Mods
Voltmeter/clock/temperature gauge
HD Electra Glide Fairing
Earshave/Coastered/CA emissions - gone...
R/R relocated
Nightster seat
Tombstone taillight
Drag specialties turn signals relocated
Sportster progressive shocks... Dropped rear 1 1/2"
Progressive Fork Springs dropped front 1"
NGK plug wires and iridium plugs
Coil Relay Mod
Paint
ACCT to MCCT
Honda Rebel luggage rack
VN800 Handlebars & controls
Screamin Eagle mufflers
F&S Engine Guard & Kury highway pegs
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