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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old 07-08-2013, 01:09 AM Thread Starter
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Carb sync

Can't find the thread on how to sync our carbs what's the best way and is there a way to re jet the carb without taking it off the bike
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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old 07-08-2013, 02:40 AM
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Can't find the thread on how to sync our carbs what's the best way and is there a way to re jet the carb without taking it off the bike
Not sure about finding a thread on syncing the carbs. Though I know Members on here (Wolfie I Think) has chimed in a few times that as long as both butterfly valves are opening and shutting at the same time you should be good.

Of course, I'm pretty sure you gotta take the carbs off to do that.

as for rejetting with out getting taking the carbs off the bike. I do believe you can get the bottoms off to access the jets. I highly doubt you can get the top plates off if you have the stock surge box in place, so getting shims under the needles would not be n option there.

Even then, In my opinion, it would be easier to get the carbs off the bike then to wrestle with getting at the jets without full carb removal.

......I'd rather wake up in the middle of nowhere then in any city on earth.

*2014 VN900 Custom (16,200 miles and counting)
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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old 07-08-2013, 11:58 AM
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Here's a short video showing carb sync using a home made meter.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S-EX9ZmYUPQ

I have read threads where people say they have rejetted with carbs on, but I also agree that it would be very difficult to see and manuever in such a confined space. I did mine when I removed the carbs for proper cleaning.


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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old 07-08-2013, 01:17 PM
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Lion, what leads you to desire a re-jet? Changed the exhaust?
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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old 07-19-2013, 03:52 PM
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Rather than start a thread, I will add to this one. If this is not proper, somebody set me straight.

Synchronized the carb's on the City Girl yesterday. Did not think it necessary, rather I thought it probably needed carb work. Wrong.

Just less than $5, and less than 5 minutes, I had my tool made. The front cylinder was pulling hard. A different bike in the pilot circuit. A buddy was here and I took it to 5k on the center stand. Weird-ed him out a little.

We went for a short ride. It heats up quicker. Starts better, if that's possible. Cruises at less throttle. Puts much better, probably needs idle screws in a little. May need throttle cables re-adjusted.

The City Girl has new tires, splines checked, headlight is finally right and newly detailed. Time to ride, while looking for a reserve lighting unit. What do you kids say----

Woo-Hoo.
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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old 07-20-2013, 06:35 AM
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Which tool did you make? The one with clear tube and a yard stick or the one with 2 bottles and clear tube? And what fluid did you use? I made the one with the tube and a yard stick and used ATF and I found that the fluid wasn't really thick enough. It moved a lot and made it really hard to get an accurate measure. I was thinking of maybe trying some gear oil that I use in the rear differential of my truck to see if it would be better.

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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old 07-20-2013, 07:31 AM
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I had used the yard stick method when I did mine and filled the tubes with Seafoam. Wasn't that hard once you figured out where to hook up. I believe you needed a 7mm open end wrench to get into where the adjustment was. It was a few years ago, can't remember if there was a problem or I just did it for peace of mind because of everyone talking about it.

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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old 07-20-2013, 10:12 AM
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Clear $.29 a ft hose and a yardstick. I cut two 6" pieces of rubber hose to go on the carbs. Used two mityvac ends to go into the 6 " hoses. The mityvac ends were probably 1/16" orifices. I used green rubbing alcohol and it was a good thing. The alcohol went into the front cylinder shortly after starting.

Huge difference in the pilot circuit, no discernible difference WFO. W/O a doubt, I will take the idle screws in a little.
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